Draft issues with stainless chimney

[ErnieG]

Looking at your first pic from outdoors. Your pipe is on the left side of the roof peak.
What direction does the prevailing/normal wind blow from?
Right to left by any chance?
Check the wind direction the next time you have back puffing,
Post what you find.
Keep working at it. Just a puzzle that needs the pieces put together correctly. Don't give up!!

Yes it usually is from peak of roof towards the pipe (right to left) .
I'm definitely gonna keep at it till I figure it out !

Thanks
Ernie

 

[moresnow]

Yes it usually is from peak of roof towards the pipe (right to left) .
I'm definitely gonna keep at it till I figure it out !

Thanks
Ernie

Yep. Right to left was my guess.
Monitor what effect the wind has on your back drafting events from here on.
Hard to believe but the roof peak/prevailing wind may be packing=pressuring your pipe termination or outlet.
It can be a real thing believe it or not!
The answer unfortunately is adding a pipe section. Give the pipe/venting some breathing space from the wind coming over the roof effect.

 

[.358 win]

Unless the pipe runs the whole way down to the floor, the chances of cold air naturally flowing down into a warm building are slim with a pipe terminating at or slightly below ceiling level. It's the same principal the chimney uses to pull draft, hot air rises. It's one of the reasons fresh air kits are installed through the wall, and close to ground level. Only thing that would make the attic pipe work well, is having negative pressure inside the building to pull the cold air from the attic down. (Forced draft situation, would be best vs natural draft.)
Having said that, the simple solution has already been tried, just leave a window cracked an inch or so and see if draft improves. If it doesn't, air exchange isn't the issue at hand.
I still, think the chimney system is fine in this case, it's just a quark of the stove that needs figured out, and having higher moisture wood isn't helping either.

We have the same ideas. The key here is balance, or vent.. The fire requires a steady air supply. How you choose to do that is up to you. A pressure vent has benefits. Such as reduced condensation, and a constant combustion air supply. What happens when you can't shut the door of the truck??? Till you crack the window..

 

[ErnieG]

This morning i went out and there was a few red embers left so I put two pieces of dry ash on it to get it going again and left the door cracked to catch then closed it ...half an hour later I went out before going to work and put three more pieces on it and it was going really good ..flue temp was around 350 so I closed the door and I can hear that it wasn't drafting so I cracked the door and it immediately took off ...closed the door and opened the draft till I can hear a steady flow of air but it never is a steady flow sound ...it's always a chugging or helicopter prop type noise I get
Id get a good puff of smoke out the vents and the chugging sound.
I'm experimenting with just one draft knob then two and making minor adjustments each time but nothing really seems to help much .
I'm really baffled at what to do here .

Ernie

 

[sean donato]

Cracking the door, meaning feed door or shop door?

 

[ErnieG]

Cracking the door, meaning feed door or shop door?

Feed door just to get the fire to pick up and the stove pipe warm .
It does burn very well when it's open

Ernie

 

[ErnieG]

It seems all my problems are just after filling with wood then once it settles it's ok but that first 10-15; minutes is the problem .
When I filled it this morning I did keep the wood down below the rear baffle inside the stove .

Ernie

 

[sean donato]

Well, I guess that makes sense if you're cracking the feed door and it's stopping then you're not getting enough air into the stove.
Have you noticed any difference when you clean the ash out of the bottom of the stove vs being full of ash? I'm wondering now if adding more wood is just blocking the fresh air from flowing into the stove efficiently.