Driving wedges with a maul

[elektrobot]

Same Problem

I had to buy a new wedge the other day. Lost my favorite one off the tailgate when I forgot about it. The new one has the right taper down to about 3/4" inch from the edge then it steepend for sharpening. Turns it almos unuseable. I tried it out last Friday and it wouldn't even let me start it into the block. It is due for the bench today for a serious regrinding.

Harry K

I just purchased 2 wedges from Menards that have the exact same problem. They are completely worthless. No matter how hard I tried to drive them in with a 20 pound sledge, they would just bounce right out. Guess there is a science to even the simplest tools. I wonder if the company that manufactures these has ever even tried to split wood with them.

View attachment 36052

 

[chowdozer]

I just purchased 2 wedges from Menards that have the exact same problem. They are completely worthless. No matter how hard I tried to drive them in with a 20 pound sledge, they would just bounce right out. Guess there is a science to even the simplest tools. I wonder if the company that manufactures these has ever even tried to split wood with them.

View attachment 36052

I have a wedge just like that but less than 3/4 the length from grinding the mushroom off. It's been my favorite wedge the last couple years but it's getting near the end of it's life. I can't remember where I bought it.

All this discussion about driving wedges with a maul or a sledge. I've been driving wedges with an 8# maul for the past 30 years, since I was 14 years old. I've had the same maul for the past 12 years. Never had a problem and it shows no sign of mushrooming. I figure they put the hammer face on there to hit a wedge with. If they hadn't intended you to hit with it, they would have made a double bit maul.

my .02

 

[turnkey4099]

I just purchased 2 wedges from Menards that have the exact same problem. They are completely worthless. No matter how hard I tried to drive them in with a 20 pound sledge, they would just bounce right out. Guess there is a science to even the simplest tools. I wonder if the company that manufactures these has ever even tried to split wood with them.

View attachment 36052

Even after my work of grinding the 'humps' down somewhat it was a poor tool at best. At least it solved the problem itself. The second time I used it out in the wood lot, I had it sorta started then mistruck and the wedge went walk-about in 6ft tall grass. I didn't spend a lot of time looking for it. Found wedges designed right at Wall Mart the other day at 1/2 the price I paid for the POS.

Harry K

 

[rb_in_va]

But then the wedges, sledge and mauls are not hardened steel and are designed to be used that way.

Harry K

The tip of a maul or wedge is hardened, like any cutting tool. As you get farther from the tip the hardness decreases. Didn't you guys take metal shop class? I did and one of our projects was a chisel. Same principle. The tip is hardened for cutting and the back is softer for striking.

 

[Rick Alger]

I think wedges are obsolete technology. Back before chainsaws when you had to split 4 foot bolts lengthwise to lift them on the buzz saw table, wedges had a place. But with chainsaws, you can easily cut through the stubbornest round without endangering your eyes or your shins.

 

[chowdozer]

I think wedges are obsolete technology. Back before chainsaws when you had to split 4 foot bolts lengthwise to lift them on the buzz saw table, wedges had a place. But with chainsaws, you can easily cut through the stubbornest round without endangering your eyes or your shins.

Might as well buy a load of Presto Logs then.:deadhorse:

 

[EastwoodGang4]

Ludell 8lb maul

KMB I have the exact same maul you have... in general I like it. it splits nice but does stick every now and then. I try to keep the splitting face of the maul shiny even sanding the rust off if it's been in the rain. it seems to slide thru the wood a little eaisier. However i don't recommend using that perticular maul as a sledge hammer...... or beating the maul head thru with a hammer. Mine is cracked pretty bad and would expect it to shatter or break. i'll try to get a pic on for you and others to see. also i have a wedge the mushroom wasn't ground properly and a large chunk is missing. I had to learn my lesson the hard way.

 

[EastwoodGang4]

maul pics

sorry if they're hard to see...still learning about pics

 

[BIG JAKE]

I think wedges are obsolete technology. Back before chainsaws when you had to split 4 foot bolts lengthwise to lift them on the buzz saw table, wedges had a place. But with chainsaws, you can easily cut through the stubbornest round without endangering your eyes or your shins.

I'm with Rick-I'll slice the nasty ones or the ones I can't lift up onto a truck bed or splitter. I like splitting with a maul but these days my wedges stay mostly on the shelf. In fact, the splitter sits most of the time too. Nothing like a good maul. They say cutting firewood warms you twice. Maybe 3 or 4!

 

[daemon2525]

Wow that was wierd.

I have strong opinions about this , so I thought that I would reply. So I started reading the thread, and the fourth post was mine!!!

I would not recommend using a maul to split with. And I also recommend making sure that you grind your sledge and wedges every once in a while to avoid the little chips flying off.

AND REMEMBER THERE IS NO MORE IMPORTANT SAFETY RULE THAN TO USE THESE...... SAFETY GLASSES. thanks Norm

 

[turnkey4099]

KMB I have the exact same maul you have... in general I like it. it splits nice but does stick every now and then. I try to keep the splitting face of the maul shiny even sanding the rust off if it's been in the rain. it seems to slide thru the wood a little eaisier. However i don't recommend using that perticular maul as a sledge hammer...... or beating the maul head thru with a hammer. Mine is cracked pretty bad and would expect it to shatter or break. i'll try to get a pic on for you and others to see. also i have a wedge the mushroom wasn't ground properly and a large chunk is missing. I had to learn my lesson the hard way.

Someone else mentioned that a maul has less material around the 'eye' than a sledge - true. I do beat on mine with the sledge when it sticks and haven't had a problem. Cracked heads - I finally retired my old sledge as it had cracks running down from the face. Kinda hated to do it as it was my old man's and his dad's before him.

I also started reading and ran into one of my posts. I was stacking up some comments to add to the discussion but most of them have already been handled.

I have had the 'grind the mushrooms' job on the back burner for a month. Just waiting for a nice day so I can do it out in the open. I came very close to burning down a shop once by grinding. Wasn't until I heard the crackling that I realized what was happening. Lot of real fast stomping. Now I pay very close attention to where the stream of sparks are going.

Wedges are built for a purpose and should be used. I can't feature whaling away with a sledge trying to make the first bust in a 30" round. Tools have their purpose and the best tool to use is the one most appropriate for the job at hand. Chainsaw to avoid using a wedge? No way! I do chainsaw when working knots and crotches though.

Harry K

 

[Rick Alger]

Suggestion:

Score the top of a knotty 30" round down about six inches with a chainsaw.Then take a maul to it.

Then get a similar round and open it up with a wedge.

Keep track of your time and effort.

I think you'll find it easier and faster with the saw.

 

[rb_in_va]

I would not recommend using a maul to split with.

I'm going to have to have to go ahead and disagree with you on this one. Is this what you really meant to say? I love splitting with the maul!

 

[daemon2525]

OOOOPS! that is not what I meant. I was referring to hitting a wedge with a maul.

 

[rb_in_va]

OOOOPS! that is not what I meant. I was referring to hitting a wedge with a maul.

I thought maybe that was the case.

 

[turnkey4099]

Suggestion:

Score the top of a knotty 30" round down about six inches with a chainsaw.Then take a maul to it.

Then get a similar round and open it up with a wedge.

Keep track of your time and effort.

I think you'll find it easier and faster with the saw.

By the time I fire up the saw and have a 6" kerf, I will have the round split using two wedges. I also won't be putting excess wear on my saw doing stuff when there are tools designed to do the job better. Of course that is on stuff that _will_ split. Crotches and knots are different deal.

I don't see how you get "faster" out of your method. After you have your 6" kerf you still have to pick up the wedge(s) and sledge and go to it. Where have you saved any time?

Harry K

Ooops. Out moving wood into the porch and recalled you said you used a maul, not wedge/sledg. My comments still stand though.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

Interesting. Looks good for slabbing from outside in. Doubt if it would work very well halving big blocks.

Harry K

 

[charlesfarm]

Eye Protection

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I have seen big chips come off mauls when used to hit wedges, I use an 8lb. sledge. Important point here, wear eye protection, over time mushrooming happens, even if something does not mushroom chips can occur, flaws in metal, improper usage etc.

Be sure to wear eye protection especially any time you are hitting metal with metal!! My late grandfather was a tractor mechanic. One time he was driving a chisel with a hammer. A splinter of steel flew off the chisel and went right into his eye. He had to go to the emergency room where they proceeded to use an electromagnet to somehow draw the splinter out the back of his eyeball. He later said it was the most painful thing he had ever experienced (and he wasn't a stranger to pain -- he broke almost every bone in his body at one time or another -- including his ribs and his back).

God bless,
Chris

 

[Streyken]

If anyone does try Finland's splitting device on various types of wood, I'd be interested in the results. In theory it looks good. I worked with a guy who split wood 3 months straight a year (had a firewood lot); he used an Arvika axe, said it was much faster than a maul if you got the hang of it - I never did. Just as the axe bit in, he would twist his wrists forcing the axe to the outside of the block, popping a piece off. He could do this on anything, I saw him take apart knotted 90cm Douglas-fir in no time - the rest of us would stop and watch him, it was like a magic act.

 

[burnt wood]

use your ppe

concerning the mushrooming wedge issue. definitely use your ppe, especially
chaps if you have them. i have a piece of wedge in my thigh, clear to the bone. been there for 15-20 yrs. it hit me about 5 inches below the family
jewels. and my inner thigh has been numb to the knee ever since. must have cut some nerves. when i went to the emergency room they thought i had a
gun shot wound. i had to talk my way out of being interviewed by the cops. so please wear you safety gear, and keep your kids away. i was lucky, my kids, little at the time, were standing right beside me.

ppe= personal protective equipment