Dyno or Sawing block

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less mess! A dyno lets you adjust the saw in controlled conditions. It's hard to adjust a saw while in the block, and your chain becomes another variable, but with care, both can end up with the same result.
 
I have dyno'd a few saws at Madsens and it does make life easier in tuning in your hp/torq curves that you are trying to attain. IE: Carb changes and settings, Porting, different pipe lenths and pipes, etc. The truth is still at the log though. I know it's apples and oranges but when I built the Predator the cheapest HP I bought was right on the Dyno.

Rotax Robert
 
Dyno will show you the power band, the torque and HP curves, the block will only tell the output at the ideal point given that you can keep the saw cutting at that RPM.

Wood changes one log to the next, a dyno should not. Dyno isolates and eliminates the chain, wood and operator variables.
 
timberwolf said:
Dyno will show you the power band, the torque and HP curves, the block will only tell the output at the ideal point given that you can keep the saw cutting at that RPM.

Wood changes one log to the next, a dyno should not. Dyno isolates and eliminates the chain, wood and operator variables.


I would think that on a full race saw that there is no such thing as a power band.Your saw is running wide open.So you would want all of your power wide open.Were would the tourque curve come into play on a race saw.The only thing a dyno could tell you is HP and a sawing block could do the same thing.
How does a dyno tell you what gear to run.Dont you think the saw block would be a better test for gearing.And the same for setting up a chain.As far as the operator goes I would hope he dosnt change that much.When your testing a saw you would use the same block I would hope.


Rick
 
So you would want all of your power wide open.Were would the tourque curve come into play on a race saw
Torque comes into play based on the style of operation and the margin of error. A saw with a wide, meaty powercurve is easier to operate and is much more forgiving of operator error.
 
HELSEL said:
I would think that on a full race saw that there is no such thing as a power band.Your saw is running wide open.So you would want all of your power wide open.Were would the tourque curve come into play on a race saw.The only thing a dyno could tell you is HP and a sawing block could do the same thing.
How does a dyno tell you what gear to run.Dont you think the saw block would be a better test for gearing.And the same for setting up a chain.As far as the operator goes I would hope he dosnt change that much.When your testing a saw you would use the same block I would hope.


Rick

The old Oklahoma dyno (saw block) is the best thing going for the average guy or racer. It'll tell you what you really need to know.

Anybody using dyno figures to sell you something now days, inflate, or manipulate there HP figures anyway.
 
Dennis Cahoon said:
The old Oklahoma dyno (saw block) is the best thing going for the average guy or racer. It'll tell you what you really need to know.

Anybody using dyno figures to sell you something now days, inflate, or manipulate there HP figures anyway.
That is why I have a 48" diameter log on stands outside the shop. Customers can run Walkerized, stock, EHP, whatever they want in the log. (Then they try mine and put their saws on consignment with us.)
 
Simonizer

I have not followed this forum very closely lately, but you were sending someone on this forum a saw to try. Can't remember who. How did that turn out? Were they pleased?

Thanks,

Luke
 
Luke said:
I have not followed this forum very closely lately, but you were sending someone on this forum a saw to try. Can't remember who. How did that turn out? Were they pleased?

Thanks,

Luke
I sent it and it was returned due to having a trace of fuel in it. I waited, as I was warned by several AS posters that some recipients would disassemble and copy it. I have sent it again to someone I trust in Ohio. Tracking # ce375403973ca. They will be pleased, it is a heated full-wrap 385 that will embarrass a 660 or 395.(Modded or not)
 
Hahahahaha!....You're the biggest Cull I have ever seen Simonizer! "If"...you finally do have a saw show up at Woodsjunkies....I sure hope it will out run his Dozerdan saws! AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHA!
 
Dennis Cahoon said:
Hahahahaha!....You're the biggest Cull I have ever seen Simonizer! "If"...you finally do have a saw show up at Woodsjunkies....I sure hope it will out run his Dozerdan saws! AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHA!
Do you know Eric?
If you copy my cylinder,.... you are a typical wannabe.

I trust Eric will only let you run this saw, not disect it.
 
04ultra said:
Simonizer What brand saws do you build and what are your prices..
Husqvarna 372XP, 385XP, 395XP. Stihl MS460, MS660, MS880. The price depends on the extent of the modifications. Are you a faller? I am not here to solicit business, I am here to provide technical support for free to technicians and back-yarders. Cheers.
 

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