2lumbarleft
ArboristSite Operative
First off, let me say that I have no brand loyalty, and I "do" experiment. I don't care what name is on the saw, only that its weight, balance, and power ratio is acceptable for the money, and that the saw starts reliably, and the saw lasts a long time. I have some expensive saws, both Stihl and Husqvarna. There is no way that I am going to sacrifice these saws in a brushing operation. I am talking buckthorn. Some small and spindly stuff, while some organized plant systems tower 30 feet. So I purchased a sacrifice saw. The following is a test of the Echo CS-310, 30.5 cc engine. I bought the saw cheap on E-bay. It came delivered to my home for $151.50 with no warranty and no chain. The shipping department had taken photos, and reimbursed me for the chain. They were honest, made a mistake, and there name shall go unlisted.
Before starting the saw, I removed the carburetor limiter caps. If you buy one of these, it is mandatory to do this first step. If you beat a saw like I do, it will probably be shot within six tank fulls if you don't. The saw started easily, but rough with the initial carb settings. The saw was unresponsive to throttle advance, and stopped chain movement in very light wood engagement, as in about 6" on cross cut. I richened the low speed carb setting and the acceleration response improved dramatically. After a second test cut, the high speed jet was progressively advanced until improvements translated into power losses in the cut. Throttle adjustments were necessary periodically to maintain engine rpm. Gas/oil mix was 47:1 and will be progressively enriched to 40:1 unless I see signs of coking or muffler blockage. It was now time to torture the saw. I had about 4 cords of heavy wood outback and started making cuts that no normal individual would make for firewood. This was all about chainsaw torture and evaluating the toughness of this new saw. The original factory 14" bar was replaced with an Oregon double guard bar and chain combo, only because I got it on sale for 19.99, and I had no real need for a safety chain when it comes time to do real work in the field (I just wanted to get rid of it). The story will continue with part 2.
Before starting the saw, I removed the carburetor limiter caps. If you buy one of these, it is mandatory to do this first step. If you beat a saw like I do, it will probably be shot within six tank fulls if you don't. The saw started easily, but rough with the initial carb settings. The saw was unresponsive to throttle advance, and stopped chain movement in very light wood engagement, as in about 6" on cross cut. I richened the low speed carb setting and the acceleration response improved dramatically. After a second test cut, the high speed jet was progressively advanced until improvements translated into power losses in the cut. Throttle adjustments were necessary periodically to maintain engine rpm. Gas/oil mix was 47:1 and will be progressively enriched to 40:1 unless I see signs of coking or muffler blockage. It was now time to torture the saw. I had about 4 cords of heavy wood outback and started making cuts that no normal individual would make for firewood. This was all about chainsaw torture and evaluating the toughness of this new saw. The original factory 14" bar was replaced with an Oregon double guard bar and chain combo, only because I got it on sale for 19.99, and I had no real need for a safety chain when it comes time to do real work in the field (I just wanted to get rid of it). The story will continue with part 2.