New to Chainsaws / Storm Clean-up / Husqvarna 435, Echo CS-3510, CS-4010, other?

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I was cruising around youtube this weekend and noticed a lot of "instructional videos" on Husqvarna chainsaw fixes in case things go wrong. The Greasy Shop Rag channel was pretty good I thought. Anyway, I am curious if this could be a considered a plus in the Husqvarna column. I know the 435/440/450 models have been around a longer time but you don't see many Echo videos like this. I can't figure out if its because there are more Husqvarnas in circulation because of popularity or longevity of the platform - or if Echos are more reliable and not as many things go wrong? Curious for input or thoughts.
 
Echo makes reliable products. Not always the most sparkling performers, but nobody will credibly dispute that they can make a reliable two-stroke engine.

Will most modern Echo saws need a bit of tweaking to un-EPA them? Yes, probably, because they have taken a particular approach to EPA compliance while remaining normally carb’d and easy to work on. But the upside is the lack of computers in them. Seems a fair trade to me.

The 435-440-450-455-460 saws from Husqvarna are unexciting homeowner saws that are not representative of what the brand actually has to offer. Same with Stihl 171-181-251-271-291 and the like. I don’t see them being worth any $$$ premium over Echo. They are not uniquely good or reliable. They are just vanilla - good enough for their intended market, cheap enough for what they are, and have a brand name on them that makes people who know little think they got a great machine.
 
Jonsered CS2240/Husky 435: plastic case, unpleasant to work on, has purge valve, shuts down by pulling choke out, not hard to start

Echo CS-590: has to be handled with an exact ritual if you don't want it to flood, no purge valve, annoying ignition switch which probably should not be there, lots of complaints about starting from amateurs like me who took a long time to find correct information, easy to work on and modify, some metal in structure, good price

These are my perceptions, right or wrong.
 
Thinking more about your question, if I was going to go at this with one gas saw to do all tasks that require a gas saw and was planning to respect your budget, I would probably give the Echo 590 serious consideration. It is bigger in terms of size and weight than I would want to have to swing around for small tasks, but it is economical and capable of doing honest work in bigger wood. When I was younger, I did most of my work with a Dolmar 7900/20" setup, and it worked fine while being, if we were to be completely honest, total overkill in most instances. Now I'd much rather run a smaller saw; a ported Husqvarna 543xp/13" is my go-to saw these days for most everything, including the occasional hardwood in the 20"-24" range.

With the Echo 590 idea, I'd definitely want to have a short laminated bar for smaller tasks (15-16" max) to keep weight down a bit and make it more nimble. I find storm cleanup and working tangles of blowdowns favors a shorter bar over a long one probably 10:1, but I also know that those sort of cutting tasks have a pesky tendency to stick bars due to the unpredictable forces working within tangles of downed trees, so you're going to want to have a second bar on-hand anyway.

Get good at sharpening your chains. Getting great takes a lot of effort, but it isn't hard to get good and that's honestly all you really need. More than anything, it just requires you do it in a timely fashion (before the thing is fully dulled out) and that you keep your chain out of the dirt (another place where having a short bar makes life easier) so you have fewer peened-over cutters to sharpen back to having a point and an edge again.

Consider putting yourself on a schedule to get the saw out, run it a bit, and then put it back into storage. I'd say at least quarterly, though monthly would probably be better if it's not too much of a bother to do it that often. This way you know it's ready to go when you need it. Maybe do these runs on canned gas, since it seems to store in the saw better than ethanol-laden gas station gas does.

If you want to have the full kit ready to go, have a good collection of wedges, a wedge-bumping ax (here I like a heavy ax head on a shorter handle), some good ropes for guiding/pulling/stabilizing (I like Samson Stable Braid 1/2" in orange), and a Husqvarna Timber Tong (or two, or two of each size, your call). The timberjack idea is also good, as is the Husqvarna Felling Lever. Have some first-aid gear in your saw pack, along with QuickClot or some similar product.

Invest in a couple good handsaws. I'm partial to Silky, but there are other top-shelf brands out there, and there is also Corona, available everywhere and fairly decent. Were I to suggest particular saws, I'd say the folding Silky PocketBoy is super versatile and has cut me out of a bind more than a few times; get the 170mm with medium or coarse teeth first. The non-folding 330mm Zubat hand saw uses the same blade as my Zubat 3.9m pole saw, so I only have to inventory spare blades of one type for both saws. The pole saw is also helpful for setting ropes.
 
Thinking more about your question, if I was going to go at this with one gas saw to do all tasks that require a gas saw and was planning to respect your budget, I would probably give the Echo 590 serious consideration. It is bigger in terms of size and weight than I would want to have to swing around for small tasks, but it is economical and capable of doing honest work in bigger wood. When I was younger, I did most of my work with a Dolmar 7900/20" setup, and it worked fine while being, if we were to be completely honest, total overkill in most instances. Now I'd much rather run a smaller saw; a ported Husqvarna 543xp/13" is my go-to saw these days for most everything, including the occasional hardwood in the 20"-24" range.

With the Echo 590 idea, I'd definitely want to have a short laminated bar for smaller tasks (15-16" max) to keep weight down a bit and make it more nimble. I find storm cleanup and working tangles of blowdowns favors a shorter bar over a long one probably 10:1, but I also know that those sort of cutting tasks have a pesky tendency to stick bars due to the unpredictable forces working within tangles of downed trees, so you're going to want to have a second bar on-hand anyway.
You know when I was young and dumb I did absolutely everything with an 029. I never noticed the weight but I frequently wished for more power. My go-to now is a 590 and I don't notice the weight for the most part. I know there are lighter saws with the same power but honestly the 590 is just a pleasure to run.
 
To the OP, look at the Echo 4910 or Husky 450 if you can go a bit over $400. If you have to rely on 1 saw that can do a little of everything, a 50cc with a 16” bar, and 20” for the occasional large tree. The 4910 makes 3.35hp; the Husky 3.2. Echo publishes power ratings in kW on their UK site, so multiply kW by 1.34 to get hp.

That’s the cheapest route IMO you can go to cover the bases as best you can by buying new and not modding it.

Jason
 
Thinking more about your question, if I was going to go at this with one gas saw to do all tasks that require a gas saw and was planning to respect your budget, I would probably give the Echo 590 serious consideration. It is bigger in terms of size and weight than I would want to have to swing around for small tasks, but it is economical and capable of doing honest work in bigger wood. When I was younger, I did most of my work with a Dolmar 7900/20" setup, and it worked fine while being, if we were to be completely honest, total overkill in most instances. Now I'd much rather run a smaller saw; a ported Husqvarna 543xp/13" is my go-to saw these days for most everything, including the occasional hardwood in the 20"-24" range.

With the Echo 590 idea, I'd definitely want to have a short laminated bar for smaller tasks (15-16" max) to keep weight down a bit and make it more nimble. I find storm cleanup and working tangles of blowdowns favors a shorter bar over a long one probably 10:1, but I also know that those sort of cutting tasks have a pesky tendency to stick bars due to the unpredictable forces working within tangles of downed trees, so you're going to want to have a second bar on-hand anyway.

Get good at sharpening your chains. Getting great takes a lot of effort, but it isn't hard to get good and that's honestly all you really need. More than anything, it just requires you do it in a timely fashion (before the thing is fully dulled out) and that you keep your chain out of the dirt (another place where having a short bar makes life easier) so you have fewer peened-over cutters to sharpen back to having a point and an edge again.

Consider putting yourself on a schedule to get the saw out, run it a bit, and then put it back into storage. I'd say at least quarterly, though monthly would probably be better if it's not too much of a bother to do it that often. This way you know it's ready to go when you need it. Maybe do these runs on canned gas, since it seems to store in the saw better than ethanol-laden gas station gas does.

If you want to have the full kit ready to go, have a good collection of wedges, a wedge-bumping ax (here I like a heavy ax head on a shorter handle), some good ropes for guiding/pulling/stabilizing (I like Samson Stable Braid 1/2" in orange), and a Husqvarna Timber Tong (or two, or two of each size, your call). The timberjack idea is also good, as is the Husqvarna Felling Lever. Have some first-aid gear in your saw pack, along with QuickClot or some similar product.

Invest in a couple good handsaws. I'm partial to Silky, but there are other top-shelf brands out there, and there is also Corona, available everywhere and fairly decent. Were I to suggest particular saws, I'd say the folding Silky PocketBoy is super versatile and has cut me out of a bind more than a few times; get the 170mm with medium or coarse teeth first. The non-folding 330mm Zubat hand saw uses the same blade as my Zubat 3.9m pole saw, so I only have to inventory spare blades of one type for both saws. The pole saw is also helpful for setting ropes.
Thank you for this thorough response. The other stuff I might need is especially helpful. With the 590, I am a little concerned about weight and too much power for a new guy on a real saw, but I certainly understand and appreciate the do-it-all characteristics of it and I will definitely leave it open as an option. That being said, I got to get into the dealer and really handle them which I have not been able to do yet. Thank you again.
 
Thank you for this thorough response. The other stuff I might need is especially helpful. With the 590, I am a little concerned about weight and too much power for a new guy on a real saw, but I certainly understand and appreciate the do-it-all characteristics of it and I will definitely leave it open as an option. That being said, I got to get into the dealer and really handle them which I have not been able to do yet. Thank you again.
The shorter the bar and the bigger the saw, the harder the saw can kick back. A 590 isn't a huge saw, but its plenty big enough to kick back and get you. I've not run one, but looking at the specs it looks like it should be right at home cutting stuff that's up to 20" across, and could handle bigger stuff than that at a slower pace.

If you already have an 8" battery powered pole saw, then I'd double down on a decent 50cc saw. Pro grade is nicer to run, but the home owner saws are fine for cleaning up a tree every now and then. That answer depends more on how much $$ you're willing spend than anything else. Really and truly, the sky is the limit, but if you're just looking for something that will handle 16"-20" logs better than your pole saw or your neighbors MS170, most 50cc saws (new or used) will do the trick just fine. For someone that uses a saw regularly, the difference in weight between a 50cc saw (10-11 lbs) and a 60cc saw (12-13 lbs) is barely noticeable. For someone who doesn't, the +20% increase in weight can be very noticeable, and that goes more so for cleaning up a downed tree vs cutting firewood.

One thing you haven't discussed is safety gear/PPE. I've always considered a chainsaw to be a hand held lawnmower with no deck. Make sure your budget includes enough money for saw chaps and a helmet. If you're cutting stuff that's already on the ground, the helmet isn't as necessary, but I really like the mesh face shield for keeping crap out of my eyes.
 
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