Echo CS-800p setup for milling?

[Matt Enoch]

Just picked up a CS-800p with a 2o" and 36" bar along with a few chains for $225. Ive got a 36" granberg mill that I've been using my cs-590 with a 27" bar on, but it tends to struggle. I'm still relatively new to this so I thought I'd ask the experts...

First... Are there specific bars that are worth the money that better suited for milling than OEM echo bar? If so, suggestions?

Second... I also I would appreciate suggestions on ripping chains?

Thanks,
Matt

 

[rarefish383]

I like Echo's and would give your saw a thumbs up. It's not the most powerful, so don't lean on it. Take a look at my Red Oak thread. I just milled this Sunday with a 660, 36" bar, and out of the box 33RS chain. I don't use milling chain because I like to switch back and forth between cutting firewood and milling. Getting a smooth cut is as much technique as equipment. I've seen guys with milling chain post pics way worse than mine, so I've never bothered trying it.

 

[andy]

You don’t need a fancy bar to cage it up in a mill.
Lightened bars are probably less well suited for milling otherwise I just choose a good cheap solid bar and keep it in good condition.
Your saw may have trouble keeping enough oil flowing for a 36”.
Putting an aux oiler out on the tip will help.
You can even use canola in a spray can if it’s just occasional.
Just spray a big foamy glob on the roller tip before you start your cut.
It will melt out and find it’s way into the bar groove and links.

 

[Matt Enoch]

You don’t need a fancy bar to cage it up in a mill.
Lightened bars are probably less well suited for milling otherwise I just choose a good cheap solid bar and keep it in good condition.
Your saw may have trouble keeping enough oil flowing for a 36”.
Putting an aux oiler out on the tip will help.
You can even use canola in a spray can if it’s just occasional.
Just spray a big foamy glob on the roller tip before you start your cut.
It will melt out and find it’s way into the bar groove and links.

Thanks for the tips. Is there a ripping chain you suggest since I’m really only going to be using it for milling? My 590 should handle the firewood and other stuff.

 

[alleyyooper]

My dream set up is a Echo 800P for milling.

I am useing Oregon ripping chain in my Jred but is only a 20 inch bar milling about 14 inch with my h0me built rig.

Al

 

[Matt Enoch]

I couldn’t seem to find a rip chain for the 36 bar that was compatible with echo. All they had was 32 and then 100’ and 50’. It probably just my ignorance but I’d some advice on a specific rip chain or Chains that would work with the 36 inch echo bar.

 

[rarefish383]

Matt, milling chain costs more and you really don't need it. It's not any faster and I can't see where it's any smoother. My buddy came over to mill one of my Red Oak logs and his cut was way worse than mine. Predominately, because he kept rocking back and forth. Every time you change the angle of the bar it makes a mark. I start my cut with the tip of the bar leading just a couple inches, hold that angle all the way through. Try a fresh 33RS stihl chain, make sure there is no dirt on the log, if there is take a hatchet and peel the bark off. You won't be disappointed. Now, if you "just want" ripping chain by all means get some.

 

[Matt Enoch]

Matt, milling chain costs more and you really don't need it. It's not any faster and I can't see where it's any smoother. My buddy came over to mill one of my Red Oak logs and his cut was way worse than mine. Predominately, because he kept rocking back and forth. Every time you change the angle of the bar it makes a mark. I start my cut with the tip of the bar leading just a couple inches, hold that angle all the way through. Try a fresh 33RS stihl chain, make sure there is no dirt on the log, if there is take a hatchet and peel the bark off. You won't be disappointed. Now, if you "just want" ripping chain by all means get some.

Thanks. Will that work on the echo? the echo chain is 116 link whereas the stihl is 114?

 

[rarefish383]

Thanks. Will that work on the echo? the echo chain is 116 link whereas the stihl is 114?

You may need to find a shop to cut it, mine does. That's where I get all of my Homelite 404 chain. I'm sure one of the sponsor will sell loops. Let me check in the Morning. My Ace Hardware is an Echo dealer and I think they had a 36" on the shelf, if so, they will have a chain.

 

[rarefish383]

I did a quick check on ebay and Oregon had it. I like Oregon chain, I just think it's a softer. Files seem to cut quicker and deeper, seems to dull faster.

 

[Matt Enoch]

Thanks a ton for the help.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Thanks a ton for the help.

I use a Granberg ripping chain that has ever other tooth cut down and it leaves a very smooth finish. Granberg is expensive though. We're milling white and chestnut oak with very good results.

 

[rarefish383]

Thanks a ton for the help.

I went into Ace and the guys that work behind the counter weren't there on Sunday. But, they make a 36" bar for your saw, so I know they can get a chain. It doesn't have to be the Stihl. I do have a couple Oregon chains that work fine, I just think the Stihl steel is harder.

 

[andy]

I just think the Stihl steel is harder.

FWIW
I think your right or at least, that has been my experience as well.
Granted, I only use Oregon in my little saw (.325 ). Maybe that smaller chain is not as tough.
It's sure easy to sharpen compared to Stihl chain.

 

[Matt Enoch]

Are there any mods yall suggest for getting a little more power for when I tackle a 30" oak? I've seen a few things on muffler and carb mods and tuning but didnt know if those were worth it and/or simple enough to learn on the fly. I'm open for suggestions, whether small or big that I should get done.

Thanks

 

[rarefish383]

Back in the day, when mufflers were bolted on, and the seems not welded, we just took all of the guts out. No spark arrester, or baffles. We always thought that got a little more power, with out any other mods. The extra noise might have just sounded like more power. I gave my buddy an old Homelite C5 which is 77CC's and it pulled a 30" bar in Red Oak pretty darn good. Your Echo will rev a lot higher, so will probably cut a little faster. I tend to leave things stock till I see if I like them, others jump in with both feet. I came here in 2009, Semotony came here in 2016. He has leap frogged over me so far I would look to him for advice. I like to pull my saw off the mill and cut firewood, then put it back and mill. If I only used the saw for milling I might try a lot of different stuff. I have over 40 saws and have a hard enough time keeping 5-6 of them in top shape at one time. My way of thinking is if I want more power, get a bigger saw. When I raced cars, race motors never lasted as long as street motors. I still kind of think that way.

 

[CR888]

I have a few modified saws & still firmly believe whether milling or cross cutting, a well sharpened chain is a mod hard to beat. Milling is about keeping your saw alive and maximising the power you have through sprockets size, chain & depth gauge angle. A muffler mod, good jetting, good fuel and oil, clean air filter, adequate chain lube with a good chain will help success. Some of these adjustments require testing in the wood your milling.

 

[rarefish383]

I have a few modified saws & still firmly believe whether milling or cross cutting, a well sharpened chain is a mod hard to beat. Milling is about keeping your saw alive and maximising the power you have through sprockets size, chain & depth gauge angle. A muffler mod, good jetting, good fuel and oil, clean air filter, adequate chain lube with a good chain will help success. Some of these adjustments require testing in the wood your milling.

That is well said. I grew up in the tree business. We always told our guys to keep the saws out of the dirt and they would stay sharp. Our climbers saws would only get touched up once a week or so. They were not on the ground and never hit dirt. Then I started milling. I milled a few slabs of Oak one weekend, then put the saw back on the truck for work. The next weekend I put it back on the mill and it would hardly cut. I accused the guys of hitting dirt with my saw. But, when I looked at it, it looked sharp, definitely hadn't been in dirt. I put a few strokes on the chain and all was good for 3 more slabs and it started to slow way down. That was an AH-HA moment for me. Milling sharp, and bucking sharp, are two different things. The saw that was going real slow on the mill would go through firewood like hot butter. People will come here and say there saw is razor sharp but won't cut. BobL will ask them to post pics, and the chain will look like they were cutting a brick wall with it. NOT saying that is Matt, Just saying that most people don't really know what sharp is. BobL has posted a video of his mill self feeding through a log while he was sipping a cold drink in a lounge chair. A sharp chain will cut. The first mod should be learning how to sharpen a chain to at least factory sharp. Again, well said.

 

[tdmiller12]

Matt, I realize this is an old thread. How did you like milling with CS-800p? I have similar setup with the CS-590, and would like to upgrade. I was wondering if the CS-800p is enough, or do I need something larger.

 

[rarefish383]

The CS 800 is 80 CC's so it will do it. I like a Stihl 660 at 90+ CC's better. If I had a a CS800 I'd use it. I don't think I'd go buy one just for milling.