tdmiller12
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks. Decided to go with a bigger saw.The CS 800 is 80 CC's so it will do it. I like a Stihl 660 at 90+ CC's better. If I had a a CS800 I'd use it. I don't think I'd go buy one just for milling.
Thanks. Decided to go with a bigger saw.The CS 800 is 80 CC's so it will do it. I like a Stihl 660 at 90+ CC's better. If I had a a CS800 I'd use it. I don't think I'd go buy one just for milling.
Thanks for the helpful information. I have decided to go with a bigger saw.I have a CS 800 and I've milled a lot with it. If I were to do it again, I would have gone with the larger saw as well. It has a lot of torque but the lower chain speed seems to slow down the cut. I haven't done any mods to it yet though that has been something I've been kicking around for some time. Good luck.
Echos and chains are always compatible...across the board. So is every other brand of saw. You have a drive sprocket pitch. The chain simply needs to be the same pitch. The gauge needed is dictated by the bar. IE: a 3/8" pitch x .050 gauge x 84dl chain fits a 24" bar, and wouldn't know which saw brand is spinning it. Having said that, go to the source for answers. This is a great forum for opinions.I couldn’t seem to find a rip chain for the 36 bar that was compatible with echo. All they had was 32 and then 100’ and 50’. It probably just my ignorance but I’d some advice on a specific rip chain or Chains that would work with the 36 inch echo bar.
Just a question re: your comment about slow chain speed. Did a rim change make any difference? The larger 8-T sprockets/rims seem to speed up the chain?I have a CS 800 and I've milled a lot with it. If I were to do it again, I would have gone with the larger saw as well. It has a lot of torque but the lower chain speed seems to slow down the cut. I haven't done any mods to it yet though that has been something I've been kicking around for some time. Good luck.
There are no teeth on a rim. Its slots for the drive links, and clearly stamped on the face of the rim.......7T or 8T. Madsens website has a 3 page tutorial on the subject. Speed up your chain if milling, given the lack of drag...You know...I haven't thought about a sprocket change on it. I admittedly don't know how many teeth are on the sprocket on there...7 or 8. I'm going to have to test that out. I've been doing a lot more milling with it over the past couple years and it's grown on me. My mill cuts up to about 29". As long as the chain is sharp and the rakers are set right, it handles the cut just fine. I'm still planning on getting a 395 or 661 this year to upgrade.
+1 on this. I’ve gone back and forth with chains and i haven’t seen enough benefit to a ripping chain to use them anymore. Technique from practice is key. Just set up and cut and get the feel for it!I like Echo's and would give your saw a thumbs up. It's not the most powerful, so don't lean on it. Take a look at my Red Oak thread. I just milled this Sunday with a 660, 36" bar, and out of the box 33RS chain. I don't use milling chain because I like to switch back and forth between cutting firewood and milling. Getting a smooth cut is as much technique as equipment. I've seen guys with milling chain post pics way worse than mine, so I've never bothered trying it.
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