You are kind of assuming the difference in the coils is the high rpm limitation. It may be more than that?
Echo Saws, are they Dependable
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I'm aware that Echo in particular used coils with both rev-limiting and timing-retard features. The IPL lists several different coils for the 600P's in different serial number ranges, and I've not ran into a 600P yet that acted like any of them had rev-limiting features built in. Every CS-590 I've tuned will get on the limiter WAY up in the RPM range, higher than I set the "H" speed screw "four stroking" nicely out of the cut.....so I don't consider it an issue and really don't see any need to "upgrade" to the CS-620P coil. Matter of fact you have to watch that sort of thing with Echo as they often changed the flywheel as well, so it's an area I typically don't tread in and prefer to use the factory part number from the IPL's by serial number instead.....
Marcus James
ArboristSite Lurker
You're right they are a bit slow, bue I think you can change that by being creative with the carb.
You are NOT going to help out any of those older Echo saws with power, chain speed or cutting performance leaning up the carb trying to get them to RPM. The piston ported variety with the horizontal cylinders are a bit lackluster for power, the reed valve models and even slower. As much as I like Echo power equipment none of those early models have stayed in my line-up and you'll NEVER find yourself reaching for one in the 50cc range if you have a Husqvarna closed port 55 nearby or a newer model Echo CS-510. The CS-510 is a "sleeper" in the Echo line-up, STRONG power for 50cc and it loves to rev and has excellent upper mid-range and top end power.
With Echo you have to research and specifically select models from the line-up that make the grade as for sure they didn't get it right with quite a few of them. The new CS-490 is popular, well built and lots of professional features but it's "lackluster" for power for the cc's. I know that comment woln't sit well with a few that own and use them, but it's not even in the same league as a Husqvarna 346XP, 55 closed port, or even a 350.....IMHO.......
With Echo you have to research and specifically select models from the line-up that make the grade as for sure they didn't get it right with quite a few of them. The new CS-490 is popular, well built and lots of professional features but it's "lackluster" for power for the cc's. I know that comment woln't sit well with a few that own and use them, but it's not even in the same league as a Husqvarna 346XP, 55 closed port, or even a 350.....IMHO.......
Bobrstrong
ArboristSite Lurker
I'm not a pro like some on this site, but I have had years and years experience with power equipment and saws including some cheap ones like Ryobi, Poulan/Craftsman up to Stihls. I did regard Stihl as a good and reliable brand until I bought a MS250. I've since bought Echo/Shindiawa saws that have showed me ease of operation and reliability. I now own a cs310, 491s, a blower vac, and a weed trimmer. ALL of my Echo and Shindiawa equipment is easy to start and reliable. Some may not be directly cc VS cc the same power as Stihl, but very close and no problems like I had with Stihl.
I'm now going to list my Stihls for sale. BTW I repair my own equipment and I can find parts for the Echo just as easily if not more so than Stihl or other brands.
I'm now going to list my Stihls for sale. BTW I repair my own equipment and I can find parts for the Echo just as easily if not more so than Stihl or other brands.
I’ve got a early 600P as well. One difference between early and later serial number (not sure about the 590 or 620) is the crank bearings. Early units have bigger bearings than later units. If I remember correctly serials starting with C0 are big bearing. All others use 6202 bearings. I’ve also heard from people who’ve ported these saws the port timing is the same on the 590 and 620 not sure if these were early or late model though. 620 has a limited coil but it’s higher than the 590 which I believe is 12.5K. I’m gonna pick up a new piston and cylinder here soon so I’ll compare both and see if I notice any significant differences. Don’t need it I just wanna have one on hand. I’ll have to see if they list a different part number for the 600 vs the 590 and 620.
Going by memory here but at some point the 600P took on the same engine as the CS-590 according to the IPL's. Early 600P's, like the CS-620P's that replaced them didn't share too many engine parts with the less expensive CS-590's. I only discovered this looking for a coil for one. As a disclaimer ALWAYS use your saws serial number and go to the IPL's for it when selecting parts. This doesn't mean that some parts from a 600 or 620 woln't fit and work on the 590, but even with that said I wouldn't just jump in and start buying coils and carbs for your 590 so spice it up some. You are taking a risk that the parts used in your serial number run will mix/match with what you selected. I know there are threads running and even Youtube video's of folks using 620 parts on 590's, but in any and all cases realize that you may buy a coil, for example, and it will not work with your particular saw because of a different flywheel used in that production run.
I made the mistake once of ordering a coil for a very popular Echo leaf blower, just thinking they were all the same. I just typed the model number into Google, bought the one that came up and figured good to go as no other options presented themselves on that search. That was a $70 lesson I don't want to repeat as companies are NOT fond of returning those sort of parts after they have been installed. The one that I bought looked identical to the original in every respect, fit perfect, but no-fire. So never assume anything with these saws especially if they had a long production run like this series of Echo saws does.......FWIW.....
I made the mistake once of ordering a coil for a very popular Echo leaf blower, just thinking they were all the same. I just typed the model number into Google, bought the one that came up and figured good to go as no other options presented themselves on that search. That was a $70 lesson I don't want to repeat as companies are NOT fond of returning those sort of parts after they have been installed. The one that I bought looked identical to the original in every respect, fit perfect, but no-fire. So never assume anything with these saws especially if they had a long production run like this series of Echo saws does.......FWIW.....
ihookem
ArboristSite Operative
Cliff R , thanks for the posts. I saw the big tree you cut up standing there with your dog. That sure is a lot of tree. Must be 48" on the bottom.
You are most welcome. Since I work on small power equipment here for the last 20 years or so full time I have a lot of experience with chainsaws. Few things get beat as hard as a saw does. I was introduced to Echo in 2003 and have a nice selection here, three PB-200 leaf blowers, garden tiller, two string trimmers and a nice line-up of their better saws. None have needed much or grumbled in all these years and with a few minor exceptions have been dead solid reliable. I have owned quite a few other models but sent them on down the road, only keeping the ones that had the best power to weight and/or very well suited to certain tasks. The CS-370's for sure aren't powerhouses, but nothing that I know of makes a better saw to ride on the tractor, quad and side-by-side, plus we take one out to Colorado Elk hunting as a camp saw. What they lack in power/speed they make up for it durability and never fail to start for any reason.
The CS-670's, 6700's and 800's all went on down the road and at this point I see all those being phased out for the CS-620P's and CS-7310's, they are that much better.....IMHO.....
That Maple was HUGE for sure. We cut each piece around 12" to keep the weight down so we could roll them out to cross-cut with the CS-590. We had to be careful one didn't fall over and crush someone they were really heavy!.....
The CS-670's, 6700's and 800's all went on down the road and at this point I see all those being phased out for the CS-620P's and CS-7310's, they are that much better.....IMHO.....
That Maple was HUGE for sure. We cut each piece around 12" to keep the weight down so we could roll them out to cross-cut with the CS-590. We had to be careful one didn't fall over and crush someone they were really heavy!.....
LuDookie
ArboristSite Guru
This is an older thread and not sure if I’ve posted here but while I’m out doing removals I have this conversation a lot. Often times I’ll be on the job with a big Husqy saw and a small echo 370, sometimes I’ll have my Echo 680 and my Stihl 261 with me. I enjoy it when someone is curious and starts asking about saws. While I have had Husqy’s that are irreplaceable, I usually tell people if I’m looking for a new saw I’ll look to see if Echo has what I need first. I run and love my Husqy 395 but if Echo made a 90+cc saw that was easy to get (I know about the 1201) and it had a good air filter and a variety of bars and chains readily available, I’d look no further. It’s hard to explain without things being too subjective but I just like the way my Echos run and hold up.
LuDookie
ArboristSite Guru
And if Echo started using the D009 bar Mount like the 7310 supposedly has…. Dang!…that’d be nice. One thing I like about Husqvarna is the bar and chain combos available. I have a bit more headache with the D176 Mount and getting the chains I like with the right drive link count.
ihookem
ArboristSite Operative
CliffR, it is guys like you that I listen to. Guys that have sen them all torn apart and see the weak links and the strong ones. I have watched so many " Echo 620 vs Husky X and Stihl X just to watch them cut a few logs. That tells me very little. I will likely get the 620 soon. remembered your tests on 590/ 620 tests on some 10"? ash logs that came in at 13 sec. I decided to take my 026 on some ash outside , about 10" and it came in at about 30 seconds. The 034 came in around 17 seconds. Not too bad for a 30 yr old 034. The 026 does not run right though and the 034 has never been tuned. If I want faster, I take out the Stihl 441. It will likely be about 10 seconds on a 10" ash, so I have the speed if I want it. However, it is loud , and I get the feeling that it is a saw that you need to be much more carefull when using it. Kind of feel I need to be on red alert when running it at top speed, when the 034 and 026 , I seem to actually enjoy cutting the wood instead of being on red alert. Not sure why. I kind of want to fix the 026 and buy the ECHO 620.
Just an observation about Youtube videos. At least 90 percent if not more of the folks making them have an agenda, to get into the Youtube million dollar club. The problem is that nearly all of them aren't true professionals in that arena and lack the skills sets to ever be able to get much more than a handful of folks liking their work and subscribing to their channel....IMHO
In order to accurate test anything, especially two different saws against each other you MUST use the same operator, cutting style, fuel, same log, same bar, chain and you even need to "touch" up that chain so each saw was on a level playing field when you ran the tests.
What you do NOT have control over is density of the wood, knots, consistency in the material where each cut was made, etc. Even with that said if you pick out a nice straight log that hasn't started to rot or decay and no evidence of limbs having been on it in either direction you'll be pretty close.
Then there is the person running the saw. A home-owner or part time guy (or gal) isn't going to have the time vested or cutting experience to cut in the exact same manner, or basically the "human error" will be greater compared to someone who does it for a living and/or has decades of experience running saws. Even worst they don't get each saw in perfect tune as just a tad rich or lean from perfect can have a dramatic effect on the end result(s).
In any case I am NOT the one to hire for testing saws, my area of expertise is carburetors, distributors, camshafts, intake manifolds, cylinder heads and other "high performance" parts companies manufacture and sell for the older V-8 engines from the muscle car era. I've got that nailed down, but suggest that you don't ask me about the fancy bug zapping distributor the salesman at one of the Speed Shops just talked you into, or any of these "high performance" aftermarket carburetors, or even worse some whiz-bang "modern" profile camshaft with short seat timing events and tight LSA......I promise that you will NOT like what you hear..........Cliff
In order to accurate test anything, especially two different saws against each other you MUST use the same operator, cutting style, fuel, same log, same bar, chain and you even need to "touch" up that chain so each saw was on a level playing field when you ran the tests.
What you do NOT have control over is density of the wood, knots, consistency in the material where each cut was made, etc. Even with that said if you pick out a nice straight log that hasn't started to rot or decay and no evidence of limbs having been on it in either direction you'll be pretty close.
Then there is the person running the saw. A home-owner or part time guy (or gal) isn't going to have the time vested or cutting experience to cut in the exact same manner, or basically the "human error" will be greater compared to someone who does it for a living and/or has decades of experience running saws. Even worst they don't get each saw in perfect tune as just a tad rich or lean from perfect can have a dramatic effect on the end result(s).
In any case I am NOT the one to hire for testing saws, my area of expertise is carburetors, distributors, camshafts, intake manifolds, cylinder heads and other "high performance" parts companies manufacture and sell for the older V-8 engines from the muscle car era. I've got that nailed down, but suggest that you don't ask me about the fancy bug zapping distributor the salesman at one of the Speed Shops just talked you into, or any of these "high performance" aftermarket carburetors, or even worse some whiz-bang "modern" profile camshaft with short seat timing events and tight LSA......I promise that you will NOT like what you hear..........Cliff
Marcus James
ArboristSite Lurker
I actually have the new 620. Is it a good saw? I like it, but it just seems not as powerful as I expected. It's still great though. Fairly light for what it does. Which is nice.
Karrl
ArboristSite Operative
Can confirm, 7310 is d009. If you can find it in stock the d176 to Stihl lg mount adapter works great on my 590. That lets me us 72 dL 20 in chain and 84 dL 24/25 in chain interchangeably on my 590.
LuDookie
ArboristSite Guru
That Stihl bar won’t know how to act when that Echo starts pouring that oil to it! Lol.
ihookem
ArboristSite Operative
Ok, let me get this straight. I can put on a d009 adaptor on an ECHO for my stihl bars? Or do I need the d176 adaptor for an ECHO to my Stihl bars on an ECHO. One reason I shy away from ECHO and Husky is cause I cant swap bars like I can with my Stihl 034 and 441. Where can I find this adaptor?
LuDookie
ArboristSite Guru
You’ll need an adapter either way… D009 to Stihl or D176 to Stihl.
Karrl
ArboristSite Operative
Ludookie summed it up pretty good but I’ll leave this here in case anyone can use it.
On the cs 590/620 you can get the adapter that allows you to use the stihl large mount bar. Stihl to d176. I bought mine from sawsuppliers.com but they are out of stock. There is also an adapter that lets you run the stihl bar on a a d009 saw; which is what the 7310.. eBay sells these and has them in stock. There around 14 bucks.
To put a d009 bar on a d176 echo saw I believe that you can do without an adapter. The difference is very small in bar stud size (~mm) so as long as you don’t lean on your bars hard it’s doable I have not done this myself but I have read about others doing on here. Just make sure you lift the nose of your bar when you tighten the nuts.
On the cs 590/620 you can get the adapter that allows you to use the stihl large mount bar. Stihl to d176. I bought mine from sawsuppliers.com but they are out of stock. There is also an adapter that lets you run the stihl bar on a a d009 saw; which is what the 7310.. eBay sells these and has them in stock. There around 14 bucks.
To put a d009 bar on a d176 echo saw I believe that you can do without an adapter. The difference is very small in bar stud size (~mm) so as long as you don’t lean on your bars hard it’s doable I have not done this myself but I have read about others doing on here. Just make sure you lift the nose of your bar when you tighten the nuts.
I got my bar adapter from Red Beard Saws. Very well made and works a treat. Nice to be able to use my Stihl lightweight bars on other saws. Have adapters for my Dolmars as well.
