DR.JuanEsteban
ArboristSite Lurker
He does say "Sharpening results will vary quite a bit based on the proficiency of the person using the sharpener".I Want To Like This Guy, But . . .
Very attractive methodology, using a new chain for each device (3/8 low profile, narrow kerf), which sounds objective. Not sure if they are equally 'dulled', but that is not that big of a big issue. What is a HUGE issue is that he subjectively decides how much to sharpen: not the tool! Experimental bias!
You guys may have heard me say something like, 'The file (grinder, etc.) doesn't sharpen the chain: YOU sharpen the chain. The file (etc.) is just the method you choose.' How did he decide how long to file, grind, etc.? When to stop? You may have also heard me opine, 'The most important part about sharpening is knowing what you want your cutters to look like when finished.' If he gets poor results is it his fault or the fault of the tool?
People have different levels of experience with different methods. Not sure what experience he has with each, if he really understands how to use the specific tool, and does not address any learning curve or skill with each. He clearly is not using the Oregon 420-120 grinder correctly, and probably not the HF one either. Further, look at the dramatic differences in cut time he got between 2 different trials of each tool:
View attachment 891137
And how does he explain such different results between the 3, extremely similar, rotary grinders?
Further, he does not consider sharpening chain when it is more worn, or the possibility of getting different results with different pitch chains.
I liked some of his other videos, but overall, I am disappointed with this one. A common case of: ' I don't know what I am doing, but I am going to do it, and declare a definitive winner.'
Philbert
Like other"best of " or "Top X" videos on the Internet i use Project Farm as a starting point rather than a definitive guide.