If the limbs on my tree are 4-5 inches in diameter, what size electric chain saw would be best? Will a 14" do it? or will I need a 16"?
Thank you,
Dione
For heavier cutting like that...look for the highest amp rating... It usually follows with the longer bars.
I have found that it ever so easy for the dang cord to get in the way of the blade.
Best use a connection with a safety breaker... EFI?
I don't know what manufacturers claim for the horsepower that these electric saws generate, but the most CONTINUOUS output HP you can get from a 15 Amp circuit is about one and a half, and that's right at the outlet with no extension cord. For this application, 50 ft. of 12 gauge cord would most certainly reduce this number by a noticeable amount. Hauling around a 10 gauge extension cord would be more appropriate. Maybe the best solution would be to also get a 2 KVA gasoline generator to take out with the saw so you wouldn't need the extension.
Sorry about the jocular tone of that last post, Dione; it's just that a couple of my friends ended up getting electric saws to do just about what you're doing and were unsatisfied with their performance and power cord inconvenience. The saws quickly ended up collecting dust in their garages after they went out and got small gas powered saws for less money than they paid for the electrics.
I agree with Bill and Tony both in that if you must get an electric for whatever reason, then get the highest amperage rating with the smallest guide bar you can.
From what i've seen you do not get a free choice of bar length. The saws with the bigger amps come with the longer bars & the shorter bars only come with the smaller motors.
So the question might be ...how many branches/trees are you needing to prune/trim/cut and how often. If only a few and only once a year or so then an electric would be IMMHO the best choice. There are fewer problems for the ocasional user with an electric as compared with the gas chainsaw that deteriorates sitting on the shelf. So it cuts slower...life is full of choices
Another possibility would be an electric reciprocating [Sawzall] saw. A few years ago I bought a set of 18v DeWalt tools, The recip saw has been used several times for treework. Get a very coarse blade that's only a little longer than the limbs and you'll do fine.
The recip will do a lot of other work, where the chainsaw is pretty limited. I'd rather have a slow cutting tool that does more work than a faster cutter that has limited uses. Pawnshops have Milwaukee corded recips really cheap. You wouldn't need quite as large a cord for the recip as the chainsaw. Batteries don't need cords
I can't beleive more people haven't suggested this........rent a saw. If you only need a saw once or twice a year and don't want the expense/maintenance of owning a gas saw, rent one. As your needs change so can the saw you rent! You never have to worry about the saw starting or fuel going stale, most rental saw come with a can of gas and a bottle of bar oil in the rental fee. If you've never used a chainsaw before don't be afraid to tell the rental agent, they'll give you some tips. Just a thought.
sedanman,
You stole my thunder on my first thought.
My second thought is, I don't want to wimp out and go manual, but if you only have a little work, a bow saw might qualify, no gas, no oil, just a little sweat!
Thanks
There are many electric saws from Stihl through Craftsman etc.
Getting the most power and matching it with a small bar and chain, with plenty of oil, rev saw before setting oto wood and let the saw work smoothly, should maximize the situation.