engine break in, re: oil

[gdn]

Just thought i'd put it out there - I heard best way to break in 2 stroke motor was using fully mineral oil (ie cheap stuff) as it allows rings to wear in better. Been told to steer well clear of synthetic oil for break in, rings won't seat
before honing marks clear.
stihl and husky oils are both synthetic fortified, right?
should we all be using "ye olde gutter-crud" 2 stroke oil for break in?

 

[16:1mix]

I dunno what is best, and it would be hard to prove anyway! I do have several 2-stokes that have had nothing but synthetic oil since they were new.

 

[Tzed250]

Its more about how you break it in than what oil you use. For many years I have Started the break in on a two-stroke by heat cycling the engine 3 times(from completely cool to operating temp)without placing a load on the engine. This lets the pistons structure normalize before any load is put on it. Then a short period of light loading to set the rings. After that it is ready for WOT full load use. I have never seen synthetics cause a problem with ring seal.

 

[gdn]

funny, exact opposite of advice i've read. This is mainly from one website i was reading about 2 stroke motorcycle engines, but seems to be replicated in places ("just run it how you'd work it")
the break in method i was told was to warm engine on idle for a good ten min, then run through wood slowly increasing the torque on engine (over several cuts) until cutting at mostly full throttle. Cut like this for a few days then go hard. never hold at wot with no load. get carb adjusted. after first 5 tanks or so switch from mineral oil to full synthetic, "you'll be laughing"
I forget the website address but the guy who recommended mineral oil etc claimed a 20% increase in power compared to the standard easy break in. He was talking more motorcycles so the method you got here is my translation.
The reason for working the engine was to seat the rings happily under different loads before the hone wore out.
i dunno.
20% in hp made me believe him, if everything else he said was true.
Anyone ever break in a saw the wrong way, making it forever gutless?

 

[Tzed250]

20% sounds totally out in left field. The method I described above was confirmed by a Kawasaki Factory racing tech, who happened to have tuned for Jeff Ward, multi time national champion. It is never good to let a new engine idle. Throttle blips to operating temp keep the RPM varied, which is what you want during break in. My above statements were not pulled out of thin air. I have over twenty five years of experience with tuning two-strokes. Motorcycles, personal watercraft, saws, etc. The break in procedure I described yields less than 1% leakdown, so full power is there. Of course you may use any method that you wish. Others here may disagree with me, but I know it works for me, and national champions. Break in a new top end and let us know what you find.

Happy sawing!!!

 

[spacemule]

If he's claiming 20% from a mere breakin procedure, then you can safely dismiss anything else he says with no further consideration.

 

[Lakeside53]

Just use the saw normally with the recommended oils... Stihl says "any" of their oils, including the full synthetic are fine.

 

[oldsaw]

Yes, I highly recommend using oil for break-in. Two stroke oil is preferred.

Next....:deadhorse:

Mark

 

[Lakeside53]

 

[gdn]

yeah, sounds good people,
20% being the % i remember, i not sure if he claiming that all the time,
heat cycling sound like excellent idea, i wonder why you not let saw idle?
lol, can only guess what a top end is... (my 8 years experience doing whatever job comes along speaking there) must be top half of engine right? or gd quality saw i dunno,
i already broke in my husqvarna, goes better when extra hole drilled in exhaust... having trouble keeping revs below 14k though, even with caps removed, must be that extra 20% from my gutter muck oil lol

 

[huskydave]

Fill it up with 50:1 and go cut some wood! don't rev it wide open with no load and it will be fine. Stihl/Husky Synthetic is the best oil and will seat the rings just fine.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

I forget the website address but the guy who recommended mineral oil etc claimed a 20% increase in power compared to the standard easy break in.

If he's claiming 20% from a mere breakin procedure, then you can safely dismiss anything else he says with no further consideration.

And to think I was messing with "Muffler Mods" all this time.................what the hell was I thinking!!!

 

[rahtreelimbs]

will seat the rings just fine.

Sounds like what I do on the Crapper!!!

 

[GASoline71]

JUST GO CUT WOOD!!!

Frig breakin' in saws...

Gary

 

[B_Turner]

I'm in the camp that says don't get it real hot or run it WOT with no load, but just go cut wood. I probably would take some care not to run it out of gas, but that's me.

 

[wildbio]

I'm new to this site and to being a saw owner (Husky 372xp arrives in 2 days). Can someone tell me what WOT stands for? Although I bought a Husky I'll be feeding it Stihl Ultra full-synthetic (because of the good things I've read about it here). At some point I may switch to the Mobil 2T racing synthetic oil but for now I'll use the Stihl brand and then refill those 2.6oz bottles with the Mobil (or similar product). I want this saw to last a long, long time so would like to start her off right. Any other detailed break-in procedures?

 

[Tzed250]

I'm new to this site and to being a saw owner (Husky 372xp arrives in 2 days). Can someone tell me what WOT stands for? Although I bought a Husky I'll be feeding it Stihl Ultra full-synthetic (because of the good things I've read about it here). At some point I may switch to the Mobil 2T racing synthetic oil but for now I'll use the Stihl brand and then refill those 2.6oz bottles with the Mobil (or similar product). I want this saw to last a long, long time so would like to start her off right. Any other detailed break-in procedures?

WOT=Wide Open Throttle

Go a little easy on the saw first couple of tanks and it wil last a long time...

 

[DGG]

Don't screw around and get creative. Follow the instructions that came with your saw or your warranty may be void. My Husky 359manual says to use regular oil just don't push the saw too hard for a couple of tanks of gas. but that is just my saw and different ones probably break-in differently. Here is what my manual says to do.

MAINTENANCE
General
The user must only carry out the maintenance and service
work described in this manual.
• The setting of the carburetor means that the engine is
adapted to local conditions, for example, the climate,
altitude, fuel and the type of 2-stroke oil.
• The carburetor has three adjustment controls:
- L = Low speed jet
- H = High speed jet
- T = Idle adjustment screw
• The L and H-jets are used to adjust the supply of fuel to
match the rate that air is admitted, which is controlled with
the throttle. If they are screwed clockwise the air/fuel ratio
becomes leaner (less fuel) and if they are turned anticlockwise
the ratio becomes richer (more fuel). A lean
mixture gives a higher engine speed and a rich mixture
gives a lower engine speed.
• The T-screw regulates the throttle setting at idle speed. If
the T-screw is turned clockwise this gives a higher idle
speed; turning it anti-clockwise gives a lower idle speed.
Basic settings and running in
The basic carburetor settings are adjusted during testing at
the factory. Avoid running at a too high speed for extended
periods during the first 10 hours.CAUTION! If the chain rotates while idling the T-screw
must be turned anti-clockwise until the chain stops.
Rec. idle speed: 2700 rpm
Fine adjustment
When the machine has been ”run-in” the carburetor should be
finely adjusted. The fine adjustment should be carried out
by a qualified person. First adjust the L-jet, then the idling
screw T and then the H-jet.Conditions
• Before any adjustments are made the air filter should be
clean and the cylinder cover fitted. Adjusting the
carburetor while a dirty air filter is in use will result in a
leaner mixture next time the filter is cleaned. This can give
rise to serious engine damage.
IMPORTANT! Any maintenance other than that described
in this manual must be carried out by your servicing dealer
(retailer).

Running-in
Avoid running at a too high speed for extended periods during
the first 10 hours.
Two-stroke oil
• For best results and performance use HUSQVARNA twostroke
engine oil, which is specially formulated for our aircooled
two stroke-engines.
• Never use two-stroke oil intended for water-cooled
engines, sometimes referred to as outboard oil (rated
TCW).
• Never use oil intended for four-stroke engines.

 

[PA Plumber]

Awww Stink. On my first new saw I just mixed up some oil and went a cut wood. Here I find out that may be the wrong way to do it. Rats!!

That was 11 years and thousands of cuts ago. I sure hope I didn't mess up my new saw!!


BTW, Very good post Oldsaw. Reporator won't let me reporate you.

 

[wildbio]

Thanx guys.
TGG: I hope you were able to paste that in (or that you're a very fast typist).