Rounder
Addicted to ArboristSite
Tape action and wedge were pretty funny...
Excessive stump-shot. . .
- Thread starter Metals406
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Tape action and wedge were pretty funny...
Jim Timber
1/4 bubble off
So as a relatively green cutter (I've probably felled 100 cords of wood), I've always left a little step to force the tree to pivot on that and not kick back or slide off the back of the stump. I cut fast enough that the tree is still standing while I'm pulling my saw out and getting clear (most of the time). When you've got a real leaner, there's no point and I'll do a little relief on the downward side before cutting through from the back - that might not be the right thing to do either.
Do you guys intend to cut a flush stump? Or are you just against leaving so much wood above the hinge?
I've never had a barber chair, but I've had plenty that didn't cooperate.
Do you guys intend to cut a flush stump? Or are you just against leaving so much wood above the hinge?
I've never had a barber chair, but I've had plenty that didn't cooperate.
The higher you cut, chances increase that you will look like Bob Vila:
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/6N6rViWIzVY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/6N6rViWIzVY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
RandyMac
Stiff Member
Jim Timber
1/4 bubble off
I'd slide that stick BV cut off the bar as I came through from behind... No need for more than one cut on that twig.
Randy what is the story with that tree? Looks like rough country to work in.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
That was snag and hazard tree duty before setting fire to everything. It was on the Klamath, Happy Camp RD.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
The tree isn't forced to pivot on the step. It's a safety measure to keep the tree from coming back on you as the face closes and the hinge breaks. Limb-locked trees are a good example of a situation where the tree might be forced back at you on the stump.
The trees decent is controlled by the hinge. Hinge thickness, fiber column height, fiber strength, straightness of the grain, and many other factors decide when and where the tree goes. . . Not to mention the unforeseen factors.
When you step the back like Cody, you're lengthening the fiber column of the hing. Got a corn broom in the house? Grab it and pretend it's you hinge. With your right hand grab it tight (that's your face), with your left hand bend the broom at different heights in relation to the right hand, and observe the fibers (don't break your broom LOL).
So now look at the video of that fir. As the tree began to commit, that tall column of fibers began to bend, at some point they stop bending and start breaking. If the grain is straight enough at the tare, and the forces are great enough, it could continue up the stem and slab or chair -- specifically at the end of his back-cut. An early closing face would make it worse, as the tree would still have a lot of forward energy left.
He could cut trees that way for the next 100, and nothing may happen. . . But it only takes 1 to get ya -- and he's a bit cocky on the "stump lingering" aspect. Once the tree commits, get the heck back, most injuries occur within 8' of the stump.
Jim Timber
1/4 bubble off
In my mind, I'm the tree's bit@h until it's on the ground. Unless it's a little one, I get the hell out of there!
I was trying to teach a buddy about cutting and he'd just stand there and look doe eye'd as the tree started to lean... Not on my liability insurance. I banned him from cutting anything over 4" after that. "If you can't hold it up, you can't cut it." He had no respect for how much force they have, so I relegated him to clearing brush.
I was trying to teach a buddy about cutting and he'd just stand there and look doe eye'd as the tree started to lean... Not on my liability insurance. I banned him from cutting anything over 4" after that. "If you can't hold it up, you can't cut it." He had no respect for how much force they have, so I relegated him to clearing brush.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
A 20' X 4" diameter tree can kill you. . . I had a full-brim Mac T back in the day with a caved in top to prove it.
Mass X Acceleration= Force
Good on ya for limiting him until he learn more.
Jim Timber
1/4 bubble off
The stuff I was letting him cut was aspen and basswood. A 4" tree might weigh 100#.
If he was showing tendencies to get into the danger zones, I'd kick his ass right off my lot. He just lingered waaaaay too long after the tree had committed to falling.
Once I know she's moving, I'm outta there. What was really nice about stepping up to the 70cc saw, was that I can finish my back cut and get moving before the tree starts to go. If I do my cuts right, and judge the lean correctly - I'm at a nice distance watching her fall. That's my favorite place to be on a 15" oak.
If he was showing tendencies to get into the danger zones, I'd kick his ass right off my lot. He just lingered waaaaay too long after the tree had committed to falling.
Once I know she's moving, I'm outta there. What was really nice about stepping up to the 70cc saw, was that I can finish my back cut and get moving before the tree starts to go. If I do my cuts right, and judge the lean correctly - I'm at a nice distance watching her fall. That's my favorite place to be on a 15" oak.
Bandanas like that are popular to put on large dogs that tend to drool a lot. They will act as a bib, and hopefully stop any drool contact with floors or rugs or???
Perhaps it is a Man Bib?
Now, back to the topic. So, if or when I return to the limb locked tree project, I should leave a little step?? My cuts sometimes look like Bob Vila's.
Perhaps it is a Man Bib?
Now, back to the topic. So, if or when I return to the limb locked tree project, I should leave a little step?? My cuts sometimes look like Bob Vila's.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
Bandanas like that are popular to put on large dogs that tend to drool a lot. They will act as a bib, and hopefully stop any drool contact with floors or rugs or???
Perhaps it is a Man Bib?
Now, back to the topic. So, if or when I return to the limb locked tree project, I should leave a little step?? My cuts sometimes look like Bob Vila's.
You can, but those were smaller trees right?
On smaller limb-locked stuff, I usually want them to roll out, so when the tree is plenty committed, I cut the hinge off with the tip of the bar.
Don't try it if it makes ya feel funny in yer guts.
On trees up to 12", a 1"-2" step is plenty.
They are around 6 to 10 inches. A good firewood size. They seldom hit the ground without help from a tractor.
This one went on its own because there was a fence to hit.
Same with this one.
This one sat back. A Bob Vila stump. But it was one of the few to hit the ground.
View attachment 245956View attachment 245957View attachment 245958
This one went on its own because there was a fence to hit.
Same with this one.
This one sat back. A Bob Vila stump. But it was one of the few to hit the ground.
View attachment 245956View attachment 245957View attachment 245958
Last edited:
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
Yup, that's the one I remembered!
If you feel comfortable trying it, try the roll-out trick. It definitely helps them roll out and not want to stick up there in another tree.
A small felling lever/cant hook would be useful as well. If you make them stay on the stump all the way down -- and then cut your hinge once they've stopped moving-- you can roll them off with it.
If you feel comfortable trying it, try the roll-out trick. It definitely helps them roll out and not want to stick up there in another tree.
A small felling lever/cant hook would be useful as well. If you make them stay on the stump all the way down -- and then cut your hinge once they've stopped moving-- you can roll them off with it.
I do not understand this roll out that you speak of.
I heard a faller mentioning rolling a hung up tree out to a guy that was trying to become a faller and had come for help with his hung up tree. But I couldn't listen much because they were on my tail and I had to get corridors marked out.
Because I'm ascared of the trees, I bug out before cutting the hinge thin enough. The trees do not break it off.
I heard a faller mentioning rolling a hung up tree out to a guy that was trying to become a faller and had come for help with his hung up tree. But I couldn't listen much because they were on my tail and I had to get corridors marked out.
Because I'm ascared of the trees, I bug out before cutting the hinge thin enough. The trees do not break it off.
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
Limb locked trees are something I deal with regularly. Any tree that even looks like it will give me trouble gets a rope in it. I carry a throwbag (with line, weight, and tape) and a 120' piece of 1/2" Treemaster. I set the rope as high as I can and try to have someone pull the tree when it starts to fall. If I am working alone then I set the rope and pull the tree after I back cut it. Once every couple of years I will set up a self pulling rope system but that is a pain to do. Oh, and I have my truck to pull or winch with at times too.
Jim Timber
1/4 bubble off
I've been struggling with limb locking hangers a lot at my place. Usually comes from lighter cull trees landing on stronger crop trees. I'm going to need to rope them and use a high lift as a winch or do some pully work with the come along. My atv isn't heavy enough to winch them, even with the rear winch anchored.
You're gonna want a snatch block or two to a) increase your leverage and b) get you and your gear out of the line of fire. They're not expensive.
