Extreme leaner. How would you drop it?

[Trx250r180]

That is a great explanation! Thank you for sharing this.

I recommend trying it on some practice trees first ,to get a feel of lining up the corners as good as you can ,if i am at a weird angle ,i sometimes use my bar tip and cut lines in just the bark where i want my cuts .

 

[turnkey4099]

am I the only one thinking he should wedge it over the other way? ...I think somewhere around 14 large wedges would do the trick?

Add a sloping back cut and it's a sure thing!

 

[wampum]

It looks like the trunk is wide enough to allow first a small cut or wedge on the bottom.Then go up about an inch or two above that wedge and bore your bar straight through,right above your bottom cut an inch or two. Once you are bored through just cut up towards the top. The tree will stay in tack until the saw cuts its way out of the trunk.

 

[bitzer]

It looks like the trunk is wide enough to allow first a small cut or wedge on the bottom.Then go up about an inch or two above that wedge and bore your bar straight through,right above your bottom cut an inch or two. Once you are bored through just cut up towards the top. The tree will stay in tack until the saw cuts its way out of the trunk.

Thats a good way to get yer saw smashed.

 

[unclemoustache]

Yep, except I now use one of those ratcheting tie down straps. Better than chain (I used to use that) as they can be tightened. Last one I used I had to cut the strap to get it off. Only lost a few feet of the strap.

Harry K

Do you think the ratchet straps have enough strength for larger trees? There is a lot of force and lever action going on there - I would think a strap would break a lot easier than a chain. I suppose if you have a good long one and wrap it a few times it'd be fine, though. But this is just theory for me - I've never even dropped a leaner.

 

[Gologit]

Randy beat me to it. Buck off the far side. Under buck a touch on near side. Then top down. Won't be pretty but yer not making logs I bet. Stand on the uphill side to finish. Long bar and big saw. Just did one like that this morn. Saved the logs out too.

Top or not it will split out on ya if not done right.

A healthy hinge is more prone to chair btw. You need to remove the compression wood.

Best advice yet.

 

[OldJack]

A 4" premium loading strap is about as strong as 3/8" transport chain with a WLL (working load limit) of 6600 lb. I don't know how those straps behave when they break, but a chain is bloody dangerous.

 

[olympyk_999]

Add a sloping back cut and it's a sure thing!

GOOD IDEA!!
how the hell did I not think of that?
...do as the turkey recommended...sloping back cut...if its a no go then wedge it over...I would bring 16 just incase 14 just isn't enough

 

[turnkey4099]

Do you think the ratchet straps have enough strength for larger trees? There is a lot of force and lever action going on there - I would think a strap would break a lot easier than a chain. I suppose if you have a good long one and wrap it a few times it'd be fine, though. But this is just theory for me - I've never even dropped a leaner.

The rated breaking strength on those things is awesome. The one I had to cut the strap on was over 3' diameter, tried to barber chair but couldn't. Strap so tight I couldn't budge it.

Harry K

 

[haveawoody]

Me for that leaner would be the perfect time to fire up the pole saw.
Stand uphill about 10ft away and go nuts with the pole saw and watch as the pressure splits the trunk at some point.
Your limited to pole saw bar length though, cutting a 3ft tree with a 1ft bar will just make for a very unhappy tree LOL

Much safer than having to wrap the tree and be anywhere near it to cut.

 

[Dalmatian90]

Remember, the key safety item with the strap is the ratchet is just there to hold it in place -- you want to wrap the strap itself around the trunk several times so if the tree tries to barber chair, the strap is tightening against itself and not relying on the ratchet to hold it together. And we're talking straps you'd use to secure loads to tractor trailers, not kayaks to your car roof. I know *how* to do it, but darn tough to describe in words.

Guess I look at the one and I'm concerned but not worried -- clear good escape paths on the up hill side so you can step back if you see it start to act hinky. Even if the tree barber chairs it's not going to do a back flip, it's going to fall on the trail side. It's not like a moderate leaner that could rotate around and land anywhere around the base when and if it fell, or catch you as it swings up.

 

[Gypo Logger]

The tree is obviously lodged into another, or it would have fallen on its own. One simple backcut with a fast saw should bring it down.

 

[Ironworker]

It looks like the trunk is wide enough to allow first a small cut or wedge on the bottom.Then go up about an inch or two above that wedge and bore your bar straight through,right above your bottom cut an inch or two. Once you are bored through just cut up towards the top. The tree will stay in tack until the saw cuts its way out of the trunk.

And if you choose this method make sure you have an extra saw and that your medical is paid up.

 

[hardpan]

Best advice yet.

That clinches it for me, you and bitzer on the same page, bottom buck the compression wood then top buck the back cut just like a limb. Of course remembering there are no guarantees and anything can happen. Gotta have a good plan first. Thanks.

Off topic now. Keeping in mind our discussion about pine pitch wood I have a watchful eye and have found some in the form of pine roots from a stump I recently dug up. I have amazed friends when I throw a piece on the campfire. Sure increases the circle diameter of the crowd around the fire. LOL

 

[square1]

Leave it, there's room to reroute the trail to the right of the tree

 

[CoreyB]

The tree is obviously lodged into another, or it would have fallen on its own. One simple backcut with a fast saw should bring it down.

No it is not leaning on anything. Just grew sideways.

And if you choose this method make sure you have an extra saw and that your medical is paid up.

Really! I must be missing something because that is how I first thought to do it was with a plunge cut leaving a trigger at back. I am going to go play with a coos bay cut on some other trees this afternoon to see how I like it.

Leave it, there's room to reroute the trail to the right of the tree

I think I might do that for right now.
I feel I should take some of this info and look a little deeper.
I would rather be safe.

 

[Ironworker]

No it is not leaning on anything. Just grew sideways.

Really! I must be missing something because that is how I first thought to do it was with a plunge cut leaving a trigger at back. I am going to go play with a coos bay cut on some other trees this afternoon to see how I like it.

I think I might do that for right now.
I feel I should take some of this info and look a little deeper.
I would rather be safe.

I have very little expierience taken down trees but I I've dropped a few leaners and they've always reacted differently, and cutting with an upward stroke seems very dangerous. Either way take your time and think it through.

 

[unclemoustache]

And we're talking straps you'd use to secure loads to tractor trailers, not kayaks to your car roof.

Ahh, that makes all the difference! I was thinking the smaller ones. Thanks.

 

[ReggieT]

Add a sloping back cut and it's a sure thing!

Wow...almost the same cut made famous by the infamous, "Hillbilly Redneck"...except his was always a slopping back-cut!

 

[olympyk_999]

And we're talking straps you'd use to secure loads to tractor trailers, not kayaks to your car roof

what if I use those small straps to secure my kayak to a tractor trailer? will they work then?
or what if I use 4" tractor trailer straps to hold my kayak to my car, will they not work then?
please let me know...because I have no friggin idea