Faded plastic restoring

[KMB]

Andy's (Lakeside53) thread a while back, 'Restore that old plastic', got me inspired to try restoring the plastic on my project 044. I'm not posting this to take away from Andy's thread, just showing what is working for me using different components.

I cleaned the filter cover a couple times with diluted Purple Cleaner, then wet sanded it with 2000 grit sandpaper (recommended by a friend who does autobody work) and buffed it a few times. The compound I used for the buffing was bought at an autobody paint supply store for about $9.00 (lost or didn't get the receipt). The buffing/polishing wheel 'kit' was bought at AutoZone for $5.42 . The kit contains a round base with a mandrel (for use with a handheld drill), a 6" dia. foam polishing/buffing bonnet/cover, and a 6" dia. soft polishing/buffer bonnet/cover. I'm going to buy a 6" terrycloth bonnet to try - about $2.00 for 2 in a package.

The fading on my plastic didn't look as bad as what Andy had to start with, so a different type of compound and a cotton buffing wheel (drill or bench mounted) might work better for worse cases than mine. Using the drill/foam buffing wheel setup, I was able to press 'firmly' on the plastic without it 'burning' it. I'm sure a 'lighter touch' would be needed using a higher speed bench mount/cotton buffing wheel setup.

I'd like to add a wax of some sort as a protectant - any suggestions?

Here's a picture of my filter cover partially buffed, and a picture of the compound I used with the drill mounted foam buffing bonnet.

Kevin

 

[Lakeside53]

Look real good... The sponge pad is probably better than a wheel for the corners and tight areas anyhow!

 

[KMB]

Look real good... The sponge pad is probably better than a wheel for the corners and tight areas anyhow!

Thanks Andy. I was in town today and saw that HF had a 4" dia. cotton wheel (and other sizes) and mandrel (for a drill) and stick compound suitable for plastic. I had thought that they wouldn't have that sort of stuff - that's why I had bought the stuff I have now. But I am happy with the way the buffing is coming along with this setup.

Kevin

 

[Dok]

Good to know. I've been hand polishing my 440's plastic, that sponge on a drill looks to be a better solution. I'll give it a try!
Brad

 

[Timberhauler]

I used to get this stuff for my dirtbikes called Plastic Renu....It worked great.I could make my bike look like it just rolled off of the showroom floor after every race and every ride....PC racing sells it,and I think their web-site is PCracing.com

 

[Bowtie]

You guys are freaks...polishing a damn chainsaw? lmao, I thought I was the only fool that did that!!!

 

[chowdozer]

I'd like to add a wax of some sort as a protectant - any suggestions?


Kevin

Future acrylic floor wax. I sold a CR500 one time because the plastic shined so good.

 

[motosierra]

pcracingusa.com

I used to get this stuff for my dirtbikes called Plastic Renu....It worked great.I could make my bike look like it just rolled off of the showroom floor after every race and every ride....PC racing sells it,and I think their web-site is PCracing.com

http://www.pcracingusa.com/plasticrenew.php

 

[dtnodya]

You could also hit it with some glaze, like 3M PERFECT-IT .. it doesn't have silicone or wax, it would just bring out the shine.

 

[KMB]

Thanks guys for your suggestions for a finish coat. I'm trying to be realistic in that it is a saw (a tool) and I will be using it, but not abusing it. It will be stored/ride around in my truck in a case. I put my saws down - not drop them - when moving wood or brush or whatever. I would like to add a little 'shine' to the plastic, but I am more concerned about a protective coating - I think a protective coating will naturally give it a shine anyway. I'll look into the products that y'all have mentioned so far. Keep'em coming!

Kevin

 

[dtnodya]

If you know how to paint (with a gun) then you could use some clearcoat ... Like OMNI catalyzed CC.

 

[00juice]

Is OMNI a type or a brand?

 

[KMB]

If you know how to paint (with a gun) then you could use some clearcoat ... Like OMNI catalyzed CC.

Don't have easy access to a spray gun, but I do have a spray can of clearcoat. On the spray can it lists plastic as one of the suitable surfaces. Will have to give it a try.

Kevin

 

[dtnodya]

Is OMNI a type or a brand?

OMNI is a brand but it's made by PPG. Since it's catalyzed, you mix 2 parts clear to 1 part hardener. It's what I used to do my Mustang ... But I've also used it on random stuff (plastic included).

Don't have easy access to a spray gun, but I do have a spray can of clearcoat. On the spray can it lists plastic as one of the suitable surfaces. Will have to give it a try.

Kevin

That'll probably work fine .. Just be sure that before you spray it, do the following:

Use some wax and grease remover (you can get it at like autozone but the best stuff can be found at a local paint store, the 'duplicolor' stuff from autozone will work it just takes a little while to dry). Then pick up a blue tack rag (sticky cloth that removes surface dust .. cheap like 1$) and use it after the wax and grease remover (which you just wipe on/wipe off) and then spray the CC.

Now, that is the way to get the best possible results but if you are OK with some imperfections then you can just clean it with rubbing alcohol before you spray it. Don't paint it when it's really humid or really cold. That's probably too in depth for a chainsaw but some people are weird about their stuff (like me) so I thought I'd throw it out there.

 

[KMB]

That'll probably work fine .. Just be sure that before you spray it, do the following:

Use some wax and grease remover (you can get it at like autozone but the best stuff can be found at a local paint store, the 'duplicolor' stuff from autozone will work it just takes a little while to dry). Then pick up a blue tack rag (sticky cloth that removes surface dust .. cheap like 1$) and use it after the wax and grease remover (which you just wipe on/wipe off) and then spray the CC.

Now, that is the way to get the best possible results but if you are OK with some imperfections then you can just clean it with rubbing alcohol before you spray it. Don't paint it when it's really humid or really cold. That's probably too in depth for a chainsaw but some people are weird about their stuff (like me) so I thought I'd throw it out there.

Thanks for that prep info. Not sure if I'll go the wax and grease remover way or the rubbing alcohol way. Will diluted Purple Cleaner work - after the buffing and to prep for the clearcoat?

Kevin

 

[Lakeside53]

Probaby not.. Use a real wax remover...

 

[dtnodya]

Thanks for that prep info. Not sure if I'll go the wax and grease remover way or the rubbing alcohol way. Will diluted Purple Cleaner work - after the buffing and to prep for the clearcoat?

Kevin

Well, you don't want to paint any surface that contains anything greasy (silicone, wax, polish, etc..) The CC will make it shine. Just think of painting a car ... the basecoat (color coat) is very dull. Then when the clear is sprayed it makes it look like shine and hopefully look like glass.

If you don't prep it by using a wax and grease remover then the clear will not turn out very good. Really the BEST way is to wash whatever you intend to paint with disihwashing soap, rinse and dry, use W&G remover, tack rag, spray. To do the best job, also wear latex gloves because a fingerprint is oily and will be a nightmare when the clear hits it.

But if you think you can get by with just buffing the crap out of it then don't worry about spraying the clear.

 

[KMB]

Well, you don't want to paint any surface that contains anything greasy (silicone, wax, polish, etc..) The CC will make it shine. Just think of painting a car ... the basecoat (color coat) is very dull. Then when the clear is sprayed it makes it look like shine and hopefully look like glass.

If you don't prep it by using a wax and grease remover then the clear will not turn out very good. Really the BEST way is to wash whatever you intend to paint with disihwashing soap, rinse and dry, use W&G remover, tack rag, spray. To do the best job, also wear latex gloves because a fingerprint is oily and will be a nightmare when the clear hits it.

But if you think you can get by with just buffing the crap out of it then don't worry about spraying the clear.

Wax and grease cleaner it will be, and I think I'll try it the proper way - as you've described. Thank ya!

Kevin

 

[dtnodya]

No prob. If you decide to get even more 'perfect' with it, you can wet down the floor or area below where you are spraying it and that will keep the dust down to a minimum. And just make sure that you let it dry good. opcorn:

 

[KMB]

No prob. If you decide to get even more 'perfect' with it, you can wet down the floor or area below where you are spraying it and that will keep the dust down to a minimum. And just make sure that you let it dry good. opcorn:

I don't think I'll go that far...but I'll keep it in mind. I will let it dry real good. I'm curious, you must do autobody work or something similar to know all this stuff.

Kevin