Falling pics 11/25/09

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
mine has that emergency thing ,i can hear a little motor turning but nothing happens ,i should probly see whats going on with that,may need it someday ,its died a couple times on me up in the air ,any little bit of water in the fuel seems to find the carb on the lil wisconsin



There are two ways to get down without the engine running. One is that little pump kicks in and build up system pressure which opens the pressure activated safety valve on the boom lift. The other way is to use a wrench and open the manual bypass on the safety valve. The latter of course requires someone to be on the ground with access to the cylinder itself.

The one I borrowed had the wisconsin v-4 motor in it. It had an electric fuel pump that fed the carb through the engine cam driven pump. Overall it was a good machine that just needed a little TLC, a few new wires and a leaky tire patched. It is one of many Wisconsin motors I've dealt with that would run fine for a time and then just die, but you could restart a short time later. I've heard it is vapor lock of some sort in the carb and intake that can be fixed, but I don't know the secret for that fix and have always just replaced the whole motor with a new Briggs or Perkins diesel. Life is too short to fight your money making tools. (Yeah right) Lol




Mr. HE:cool:
 
There are two ways to get down without the engine running. One is that little pump kicks in and build up system pressure which opens the pressure activated safety valve on the boom lift. The other way is to use a wrench and open the manual bypass on the safety valve. The latter of course requires someone to be on the ground with access to the cylinder itself.

The one I borrowed had the wisconsin v-4 motor in it. It had an electric fuel pump that fed the carb through the engine cam driven pump. Overall it was a good machine that just needed a little TLC, a few new wires and a leaky tire patched. It is one of many Wisconsin motors I've dealt with that would run fine for a time and then just die, but you could restart a short time later. I've heard it is vapor lock of some sort in the carb and intake that can be fixed, but I don't know the secret for that fix and have always just replaced the whole motor with a new Briggs or Perkins diesel. Life is too short to fight your money making tools. (Yeah right) Lol




Mr. HE:cool:

i think the way i got down was crank the engine over off the starter ,and that was enough to get the pump enough to let me down ,that little skid steer has the same wisconsin vh4d the snorkel does ,if my forklifts run out of propane ,i can do the same thing to get the mast up off the ground ,its hard on the starter motor ,but better than doing a batman slide down the mast :msp_biggrin:
 
Manlifts are for wimps.:hmm3grin2orange:

But they sure are a quick easy way to make money.:rock:

On a conifer unless you are spike climbing them and taking them down a lift is about the only way to bid competative and still make money. Shooting a line into them and working SRT is ok, but takes three times as long at least.

Nice pics!



Mr. HE:cool:

yup. have a 55 altec in the back for just such things. i'll fly that every time over climbing.
 
Funnest one I was in was an 80' Genie -- sticked that baby all the way out and straight up on a windy day. Bout enough to make you poo, specially saying it was on a road cut into a hillside, so the fill-slope made it look even taller. :msp_w00t:
 
Hey TB, glad to see u'r staying safe, and sorry if I missed it, how's the new saw treating you? I bet u'r in some crazy ####, and hope you got a few pics:cheers:
 
I'll cut whatever, wherever....as long as there are trout nearby Bob.

Glenn- 390's are pretty sporty aren't they? Stay safe in that damn blow down.

Have a good, safe week - Sam


Ya, I like the 390 . But there are only 3 improvements it has over the 288 well maybe 4 .
1, the tank is protected from throwing the. Chain.
2 the trigger
3 the handle bars are about a half inch further apart
4 snap top filter cover.
But it don't out cut the 288 . Vibrates about the same except the trigger. . Burns the same amount of fuel. I like the dogs better.
I may get it juiced when I'm done here. But I want to get an XPG model and put the wires on a full wrap handle.
Hey Nate ; can Weber spray that rhino liner stuff over the heated handle wires?????
 
Ya, I like the 390 . But there are only 3 improvements it has over the 288 well maybe 4 .
1, the tank is protected from throwing the. Chain.
2 the trigger
3 the handle bars are about a half inch further apart
4 snap top filter cover.
But it don't out cut the 288 . Vibrates about the same except the trigger. . Burns the same amount of fuel. I like the dogs better.
I may get it juiced when I'm done here. But I want to get an XPG model and put the wires on a full wrap handle.
Hey Nate ; can Weber spray that rhino liner stuff over the heated handle wires?????

Not sure Glen? I know it comes out of the gun at like 180°, so not too bad, and it's cooled quite a bit once it's flung through the air.

Rod is currently doing night shift at a local machine/fab shop -- so the handles are on hold, besides current inventory stocked up.

I reckon doing one handle would be cost prohibitive though. Yer best bet would be to try Herculiner. There's a fancy pants gun you can get for that stuff for under $50 I think? And then you can have it to spray other stuff later too.
 
Brian, I think those would be considered triangle back cuts. . . A Coos is "T" shaped and cut in with the bar tip.

Kinda like the 1/4 cut, but without the vertical offset.
 
Ok I can't take it any more. Is the triangle cut a coos bay or not??!:msp_biggrin:
 
Last edited:
Brian, I think those would be considered triangle back cuts. . . A Coos is "T" shaped and cut in with the bar tip.

Kinda like the 1/4 cut, but without the vertical offset.

there is 2 versions of the coos cut ,triangle and T so we are both correct , Gologit posted a pic a few days ago somewhere of both styles

297866d1357741553-hpqscan0001-1-coos-bay-cut-jpg



found it here's the diagram
 
Last edited:
Ah hell, who knows? :laugh:

It's always been my understanding that the triangle backcut was different, and what differentiated the 'Coos Bay' was either a straight line of hold wood through the heart and sapwood on both sides (Like for Single Stemming), or a straight line with a hinge across the face (T shape).

:dunno:
 
Ah hell, who knows? :laugh:

It's always been my understanding that the triangle backcut was different, and what differentiated the 'Coos Bay' was either a straight line of hold wood through the heart and sapwood on both sides (Like for Single Stemming), or a straight line with a hinge across the face (T shape).

:dunno:

there's just 2 different variations of the coos ,the T one seems harder to me ,maybe in big timber may be easier ,the triangle one takes little thinking for me ,nip nip drop ,less chance of nicking the holding wood also
 
I don't mess with any of them. . . Not even a face cut. . . Who needs those dumb things? :msp_sneaky:
 
Ah hell, who knows? :laugh:

It's always been my understanding that the triangle backcut was different, and what differentiated the 'Coos Bay' was either a straight line of hold wood through the heart and sapwood on both sides (Like for Single Stemming), or a straight line with a hinge across the face (T shape).

:dunno:

There are so many different definitions of so many different things concerning logging that it's a wonder that anybody can communicate with anybody else.

Names and lingo and slang vary geographically state to state and sometimes in different parts of the same state. Sometimes they're different from drainage to drainage. :laugh:

Some companies even have their own slang. I was running a job for an outfit I hadn't been with very long. I needed a blade so I called the shop and had them send one up to me. By "blade" I meant a road grader...that's what I'd always heard them called. When the lowbed showed up it had a D-6 with an angle blade on it. To them a blade was a Cat. I went ahead and used the Cat for what I'd planned for the grader (yeah, yeah, I know...only sissies backblade, but it was all I had) but the next time I made sure what I was ordering and what I was getting were the same thing.:laugh:

The Coos Bay cut has more than two variations and a pretty good case could be made for any of them. Just 'cause me or RandyMac or 2dogs or Redprospector or Bitzer or any of the other guys that make a living with a saw use something and call it something doesn't mean it's written in stone. Look around a little, gather information from wherever you can and use what works. And if you find a better way...please let us all know.

I've always favored the Triangle...mostly because I seem to match my cuts better with it. 'Course there are some days when I couldn't match my cuts if I had a laser pointer, a painted line to follow, and a blueprint. Happens.
 
Last edited:
Yeah its hard to talk in falling lingo and I stole most of the names from the PNW guys! No one understands what I'm saying around here. Face? Whats a face? Its a notch here. You start talking notchs and faces and this and that and it gets awfully confusing pretty quick. Much easier to show...

T-handle style on a red oak from weeks ago. Left the heart wood. Wide open face. Set up that maple in front of it to slow it down. You can tell how much it was leaning when it rolls over. Didn't busted this one up at all, which would have been easy considering. No sound because crappy cell video.
[video=youtube;jDUNJM30ZoY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDUNJM30ZoY[/video]

T-style with the heart gutted.
attachment.php


Triangle on an ash. Made it to the hinge in time.
attachment.php


Fence line red oak leaning WAY out. The back cut was about eye level. Wide face and heart nip. Rocks and corks don't mix.
attachment.php



View attachment 298849
View attachment 298850
View attachment 298852
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top