Falling pics 11/25/09

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I rarely use mine anymore, because when they fail, they fail miserably. I try to pull them more often. But I am residential tree removing. Not logging. ( Smack.... Ouch....) :)
 
That was really smooth and solid looking NM. I like and try to copy how you dog the near corner and ride it through. I would like to not fight the saw like you do. The jacking with wedge backup looked very smooth.



You boys want to have "the talk" with bitz about fiber pull and how to avoid it? I would, but I already gave him the talk about "where babies come from, and how to prevent that":jester:

Get yourself some of them big falling dogs for a start.

Stuff the bottom dog in just on top of your gun cut and use it to pivot the saw around until you have your aim figured out then use it to rotate the saw through the wood, From the vid you can see I don't always have the best aim for matching my cuts but its pretty easy to correct. If done correctly you should have enough grip on the dogs to bog down and stall the chain even on a big 90cc saw without pulling real hard. Seems like the up stroke on the humboldt takes more power then the gun cut? But I think it has more to do with applying more grunt and not realizing it.
 
It was in the 40s yesterday morning when we went to work. I think Tuesday it was 91.

The last couple days of last week, I was in a scissor lift welding floor joists to red iron. Burnt about 20 pounds of Excalibur.

Another 3 hours worth tomorrow and I'll be done. It's real nice in the morning, and then the sun comes out and starts cooking on ya.

Luckily, we went from summer to late fall in a day :dizzy:. Highs are forecasted below average and lows will start dropping below freezing quick. . . The bow hunters will like that fer stabbing elk and deer.
 
Thanks Clint!

Madhatte-here ya go.

I'm no metal worker, but I'm ok with a stick welder. Of course when I do it again this thing will be different.
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I snapped a pin on a big maple last Feb. and you can see how the load bent the up and down parts of the hinge. The pin I had in there did not have load rating that I could find, but it was what I had at the time and I needed something that day. The bolt I have in there now should shear at around 40,000 lbs which is about 20,000 lbs less than I would like. I will definitely go bigger or come up with a different hinge next time around.

This thing has jacked 20-30 trees and you can see how the holes are already getting out of round.

You can see the out of round here too. The extra cross members between the main hinges were added on the jobsite after I snapped that pin last Feb. I figured it would help stop the spreading.

Bob, if you want to get better wear characteristics from your jack plate, you should fab it from a gooderer :p alloy steel than mild (A36).

Use something like: Weldox, Harox, AR400, T-1, etc.

You won't experience the deformation you are now. :msp_scared:
 
And I bet they'd just give him the steel from the rem pile. :rock:

More than likely no more than you would need.

We've been running squirt guns on missile shields here. Burned about 1/2 33lb spool in 10 hours.
 
Or He could make the hinge out of thicker mild steel and use a fatter pin, the thicker steel would dissipate more of the pressure over a wider foot print. Think fat tires over mud. find some 1" schedule 80 steel pipe and pin that fits in it cut in to three peices and make your own hinge...


Acquiring T1 or even tool steel is difficult for most people, its not like the places that sell it advertise in the yellow pages, cutting it is even harder.

And as far as inconel... its ####ing expensive hard as #### even when anealed and really god's damned hard to find a supplier...(my second project at the new machine shop was holding +-.0005 on hardened inconel...YAY:msp_mad:)
 
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A buddy of mine had a 600 amp .090 machine, took a big job to fire it up, but it would melt metal and fuse it together.... :)

I run .045 44 #
 
Or He could make the hinge out of thicker mild steel and use a fatter pin, the thicker steel would dissipate more of the pressure over a wider foot print. Think fat tires over mud. find some 1" schedule 80 steel pipe and pin that fits in it cut in to three peices and make your own hinge...


Acquiring T1 or even tool steel is difficult for most people, its not like the places that sell it advertise in the yellow pages, cutting it is even harder.

And as far as inconel... its ####ing expensive hard as #### even when anealed and really god's damned hard to find a supplier...(my second project at the new machine shop was holding +-.0005 on hardened inconel...YAY:msp_mad:)

Yeah it's some hard stuff. Pipe would be a good solution also for it. It could spread the weight out even farther.
 
Thanks for the ideas boys! When I break this one (and I will) I will definitely beef up the next one. I think I had about 150 bucks into this one and maybe 4 hours or so of cutting and welding. I don't really have the set up or know how for serious metal work although I know for sure the next one will be tougher. That's usually how things go though. Workin on the mistakes. This damn thing got heavy in a hurry. Its pushin 60lbs. I know you can get away with thinner material when using harder steel though. My bypass grapple is 3/8" hardox. My old grapple was 5/8" mild. The new one looked like a toy and I was super worried about it although it does have a year warranty. Its held up pretty well so far and has tossed around some heavy sticks. I've never taken it easy on it.

Hey does anyone have a good close up of a real tree jack? Like around the pivot part? I'm guessing its just a plate on top of a ram and the springs keep it in place?
 
Pulled my phone out for the last one of today. Undercut didn't line up "exactly" but she went where I wanted her to. Should have these hardwoods wrapped up by Tuesday.

The ole 394 doesn't look very big in this pic!

 
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