Falling pics 11/25/09

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The bigger alder can be temperature sensitive just like anything. That being said I've never been in a patch of it when it's frozen up, now fir I have and noticed they like to chair out more. Also only being about five miles off the Columbia River we don't get a ton of freezing weather or days and days of it.


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Well said and I started out stump jumping. I didnt have nobody teach me how to cut timber. Really! My dad farms and cut his own timber on his own land when it needed it. That being said he just cut it anyway to get it on the ground. I fell into logging. I was a electrical teacher in a state penatraiary. My grandpa had a farm he bought in 1955 and had never cut a stick on it, bad wind storm took a bunch down and he tryed to get a local logger to cut it.Guy kept telling him ill be there and never came. So I talked my dad into helping me and lets cut it. So we did. Just the blow down to start with. I fell in love with logging. Then I got another feller wanted me to cut some for him and another and the rest is history. I've been logging full time now for bout five years. With that said I bought got killed serval times stump jumping big timber. So after being around the mill and other logger I came to learn bout hinge cutting, still nobody came to the woods and showed me how so I learned on my own and yes I do bore some and some I don't but I will say that hinge cutting is the safest and only way to cut timber period. Whether u straight back cut or bore amd leave a hinge. Some trees don't need it someI think do. Bar size is like vehicle prefrence everybody's got one. I like to run a bar long enough that if I do bore it goes all the way through and I'm not running around the tree fifty times but to each there own. However u cut the most important is u go home to ur family at the end of the day alive. Im still learning, but I'm still in love. Best thing I ever did as far as work is concerned is start logging I ain't rich and won't never be but I start my day everyday looking forward to going to work
Over here there's a lot of a time a 32" bar is our short bars, and running a bar long enough doesn't happen much because of weight or other factors. Personally I hate carrying anything longer then a 42" bar with the extra weight.


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Yea I cut with a 24 to 28 (mostly 24). The idea of packing a 32 or 36 up and down these steep hills, is for the birds to me. Not to mention sharpening the thing. But I can see where on y'alls side of the world 24 to 28 would be useless.
 
I've ran and used a 28 some but it doesn't feel right and isn't tip heavy enough for me to bucking and bumping knots.


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Yea I cut with a 24 to 28 (mostly 24). The idea of packing a 32 or 36 up and down these steep hills, is for the birds to me. Not to mention sharpening the thing. But I can see where on y'alls side of the world 24 to 28 would be useless.
32 is not much more than a 28.........in big timber, even limbing seems easier to me with a 32. once ya get used to packing with the bar on your shoulder, it seems wieghtless.
do you not cut much more than 30" on the stump? i figure y'all got bigger sticks than we do.....
 
32's and 36's, also easier on your back by the end of the day. Not nearly as much time half way hunkered over, liming and bucking. That half way bend is a killer, least wise it is for me. Steep is steep no matter what part of the country you and rooted in. An extra 12" of bar and chain shouldn't be a matter of anything, until you start getting into 60+ bars.

I don't have much dealings with hardwoods, but a semi comp chain up to 36 is about right for our soft stuff. 42 and up needs full skip. The redwood guys may need the full skip a shorter bars, not much dealings with them either. Put a file to that chain every five trees or so, hit it before it gets bad, maintenance filing is much more enjoyable that bringing a chain back from the dead.

Try a 32 for 3 weeks. It'll take that long to get a good honest opinion of something new and learn the tricks it will talk to wave it around.



Owl
 
Yep been running a 32"er for 2.5 years in hardwood. I would never go back. Theres 10 less teeth in a 32" full skip loop than a 24" full comp loop. I run full skip. Its the cats ass.

In the hills and big timber is where a long bar really shines. Just ask Hammer.
 
Yep been running a 32"er for 2.5 years in hardwood. I would never go back. Theres 10 less teeth in a 32" full skip loop than a 24" full comp loop. I run full skip. Its the cats ass.

In the hills and big timber is where a long bar really shines. Just ask Hammer.
no hills but big trees...........a 36 is nice as well. i don't think i can tote what it would take to run more bar in this wood lol.

i only buy full skip for every size i own..........full comp has enough teeth to make two chains lol
 
generally a 32 does every thing I need, on more trees than is wise its a little short, but not so bad as to be a hinderance, I prefer it for limbing, as the 36 is a little long, I got short legs and long arms...

When I do need a 36 its usually out gunned too... but its marginally better then dragging around the wiggle stick of a 42...

Run full skip on nearly everything, I do have a 20" loop I'll throw on the 066 with an 8 pin sprocket for the yearly firewood tango... 3 cords cut in an hour and a half and only 2 tanks of gas...
 
No.

Semi skip'll do you just fine unless you get into big stuff. If you normally run a 24, you'd be fine up to 32 with semi.

Keep your oiler pumping maxed out, keep your chain sharp, you'll be just fine. Like the guy who started this thread, Burvol, said, the best mod you can do to your saw is a sharp chain and keep it sharp.



Owl
 
amen, and the longer ya go, sharp becomes even more important. the more i fool around with the bevel file, the more i wonder were the limit is.
There's a point of chain life vs speed. You can make a real fast cutting chain that if you're tree length cutting might work if it last 2 tanks before it's wood dull. You can make it last in the harder woods with more blunt angles.
 
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