Falling pics 11/25/09

BlackCoffin · Jan 2, 2021

Biggest tree so far, 113 year old 47” fir

rwoods · Jan 2, 2021

Nice stick, BC. Question: Did you actually back-bar the cut? If yes, why? Just curious, before I spring $100+ to convert by new Stihl to a wrap. I have never handled a wrap Stihl, or any 3/4 wrap. I love the full wrap on my old MACs.

Thanks,

Ron

BlackCoffin · Jan 2, 2021

rwoods said:
Nice stick, BC. Question: Did you actually back-bar the cut? If yes, why? Just curious, before I spring $100+ to convert by new Stihl to a wrap. I have never handled a wrap Stihl, or any 3/4 wrap. I love the full wrap on my old MACs.

Thanks,

Ron

I did not back bar the cut, simply just laying the saw there for a size comparison. I love a 3/4 wrap, the saws I’ve bought that didn’t have one shortly received one. I grabbed my 661 hot saw to play around with limbing that fir as I walked along it and it only has a standard wrap...I hated it. You’re just able to articulate the saw much more with a wrap handle and less stress on your body. Instead of just flipping the saw I was having to twist my arms to get the angles I wanted. This goes for general tree work as well, so many times I use that extra part of the handle to make myself more comfortable and safe when working.

Skeans · Jan 2, 2021

[mention]rwoods [/mention] it wouldn’t happen to be a 500i would it?

Weird fun fact about them with the same bar and chain the half wrap version was almost 100 dollars more.

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rwoods · Jan 2, 2021

Skeans said:
[mention]rwoods [/mention] it wouldn’t happen to be a 500i would it?

Weird fun fact about them with the same bar and chain the half wrap version was almost 100 dollars more.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sure is - see post 12994. I wanted a wrap and the first release were wraps, but couldn't find anyone to get me one (no 500i in Tennessee). I got impatient after being told our region would not see a 500i for months after the other regions so I bought the only one I could get. In my shopping I didn't get a firm price on the wrap, but found several folks selling the regular were either marking them up $50 to $100 or were replacing the light bars with regular bars. I was able to get mine with a 25" lite bar for $1309.

I like the saw. But it is not a one pull start as many say their is. I don't know that it is related but the decomp is the stiffest I have ever run across. It doesn't pop closed until you rev the saw.

Back to the wrap. I thought I would just learn to live without one, but that picture of me exiting the tree (linked below) bugs me. There is no way to reach the chain brake when back barring so you either have to learn to rotate the saw immediately to activate the brake before you run, or run with the chain brake off. Naturally, I chose to run first. If I should fall on the move bad things could happen - so I am looking at adding a wrap which will put my hand closer to the brake and the bar a little further away from me.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/attachments/img_1073-480x640-jpg.869650/

Ron

Skeans · Jan 2, 2021

rwoods said:
Sure is - see post 12994. I wanted a wrap and the first release were wraps, but couldn't find anyone to get me one (no 500i in Tennessee). I got impatient after being told our region would not see a 500i for months after the other regions so I bought the only one I could get. In my shopping I didn't get a firm price on the wrap, but found several folks selling the regular were either marking them up $50 to $100 or were replacing the light bars with regular bars. I was able to get mine with a 25" lite bar for $1309.

I like the saw. But it is not a one pull start as many say their is. I don't know that it is related but the decomp is the stiffest I have ever run across. It doesn't pop closed until you rev the saw.

Back to the wrap. I thought I would just learn to live without one, but that picture of me exiting the tree (linked below) bugs me. There is no way to reach the chain brake when back barring so you either have to learn to rotate the saw immediately to activate the brake before you run, or run with the chain brake off. Naturally, I chose to run first. If I should fall on the move bad things could happen - so I am looking at adding a wrap which will put my hand closer to the brake and the bar a little further away from me.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/attachments/img_1073-480x640-jpg.869650/

Ron

From what I understood they are out of wraps till the end of the first quarter of this year the demand for them out here as been very very high because of the burns. When cold this one bangs off first or second pull with no decompression I haven’t seen a need to use it so far and probably won’t need to. That’s about what I paid with the light 32 the half wrap with the same bar and chain was more which doesn’t make a lot of sense. Well I’m cutting I don’t think I’ve ever set the chain brake well even getting out into the clear, but most of the time I’ve shut the saw down or left it at the stump if I can.

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rwoods · Jan 2, 2021

If I think things are hairy, or they get hairy, I always dump the saw and go.

I feel a little stupid not thinking to shut off the saw - after all it has that great big button with only one function - a new skill set to develop. Gave up on my old MACs and my 036Pro as they do not reliably shutoff with the switch.

Some would call me a wimp, but I am a decomp user through and through. Easier on me and easier on the recoil.

Ron

Skeans · Jan 2, 2021

rwoods said:
If I think things are hairy, or they get hairy, I always dump the saw and go.

I feel a little stupid not thinking to shut off the saw - after all it has that great big button with only one function - a new skill set to develop. Gave up on my old MACs and my 036Pro as they do not reliably shutoff with the switch.

Some would call me a wimp, but I am a decomp user through and through. Easier on me and easier on the recoil.

Ron

That’s where the 3 series and the newer 5 series husky saws are nice it’s really simple to shut down in a hurry with either a slider sideways or straight down push. Most of the time I don’t use the decompressions because I drop start the saws how else do you start a long bar saw? Have you tried starting the saw without using the decompression?

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rwoods · Jan 2, 2021

I am too much of a klutz to drop start a saw. I crank my long bar saws by sitting them on a stump or a log or something elevated and stable. Short bars are started with the rear handle under my thigh. Without the de-comp it is way too easy to twist the saw such that the bar hits my leg.

I really don't get why folks wouldn't use the de-comp unless it interferes with starting - why stress yourself and your machine anymore than necessary?

I have a few 125 MACs and I had a MAC kart engine saw with a compression of 195 psi. Probably more a matter of ignition timing than compression but you will want to use the de-comp on any of those saws. I have seen plenty of busted recoils on the old saws. I have a MAC kart engine without a de-comp but it is bolted to a bench and doesn't get twisted like a hand held saw. If I put it in a saw, it will be fitted with a de-comp.

Maybe it is a MAC thing, but de-comp make starting so much easier. As to performance, more than once I have had the de-comp completely unscrew itself and fall out and the old MAC never missed a beat it just kept cutting.

To each his own.

Ron

Skeans · Jan 2, 2021

rwoods said:
I am too much of a klutz to drop start a saw. I crank my long bar saws by sitting them on a stump or a log or something elevated and stable. Short bars are started with the rear handle under my thigh. Without the de-comp it is way too easy to twist the saw such that the bar hits my leg.

I really don't get why folks wouldn't use the de-comp unless it interferes with starting - why stress yourself and your machine anymore than necessary?

I have a few 125 MACs and I had a MAC kart engine saw with a compression of 195 psi. Probably more a matter of ignition timing than compression but you will want to use the de-comp on any of those saws. I have seen plenty of busted recoils on the old saws. I have a MAC kart engine without a de-comp but it is bolted to a bench and doesn't get twisted like a hand held saw. If I put it in a saw, it will be fitted with a de-comp.

Maybe it is a MAC thing, but de-comp make starting so much easier. As to performance, more than once I have had the de-comp completely unscrew itself and fall out and the old MAC never missed a beat it just kept cutting.

To each his own.

Ron

This 395 I have that runs my 60” bar is 215 psi of compression with the decompression plugged. I’ve had them stick open in the past where you need to rev the saw for them to pop or they never get used and they get gummed up after a while. How many times are you priming the bulb?

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rwoods · Jan 3, 2021

Cold start 8 to 10 pumps. Warm starts usually just 1 pump - almost always a one pull start when warm but so do all my other saws.

northmanlogging · Jan 3, 2021

rwoods said:
I am too much of a klutz to drop start a saw. I crank my long bar saws by sitting them on a stump or a log or something elevated and stable. Short bars are started with the rear handle under my thigh. Without the de-comp it is way too easy to twist the saw such that the bar hits my leg.

I really don't get why folks wouldn't use the de-comp unless it interferes with starting - why stress yourself and your machine anymore than necessary?

I have a few 125 MACs and I had a MAC kart engine saw with a compression of 195 psi. Probably more a matter of ignition timing than compression but you will want to use the de-comp on any of those saws. I have seen plenty of busted recoils on the old saws. I have a MAC kart engine without a de-comp but it is bolted to a bench and doesn't get twisted like a hand held saw. If I put it in a saw, it will be fitted with a de-comp.

Maybe it is a MAC thing, but de-comp make starting so much easier. As to performance, more than once I have had the de-comp completely unscrew itself and fall out and the old MAC never missed a beat it just kept cutting.

To each his own.

Ron

skipped the decomp thing lol

I rarely use the decomp on any of my saws, except the big block saws, but then I have arms the size of most folks thighs lol, the elasto start handles come in handy for this stuff lol.

on my cut off saw (ts-400) the way its set up with the goofy belt drive, I need to use the decomp on it just to get it spinning fast enough at least when cold.

Greenwedge · Jan 8, 2021

Burvol said:
Here is a couple of pics from today. I just snapped a couple with my cell phone. I am not in any of them. Nothing too special, just thought I'd share.

Here is my Dad stumping a nice fir. This wood is really tall.

This is my tree killer. Dude is a hell of a timber faller, nice guy, wise, and very gracious, just like my Dad.

Steve pulling a block out face. It will hold the tree on the stump longer. He used it in this case because of a small hump in the lay, about 80 feet out. This is really, ripe, tall wood. The longer it stays on the stump on ground like this, the less likely it will break.

I am fortunate to cut with these two. We bet parts of our lunches on lay and save outs, share tips and ideas, and just have fun. We put the wood down too. Known Steve since I was born. These guys have paid their dues and are very smart, smooth timber fallers. I'm having a good time in this unit.

Nice pics. Been awhile since I have been on here. Hope everyone is well.