Falling saws

[cottonwood1]

Bnmc98,
Thanks for the info on the 661. Just curious about how long does it take to set itself? After the first tree or just basically warm up?
Not to be too noisy, but are there still a good number of fallers out in your neck of the woods? It was amazing how many little sawmill/logging operations I seen when i was that way last summer, I always thought it would be a great area to have a small self ran logging operation and raise a family. Sorry for getting off topic. Again thanks for you reply.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Why are the saws falling?

 

[bnmc98]

Takes about 5 seconds in a cut, but the idle can be a bit finicky until then. It helps to let the saw idle a few seconds before shutting down.

There's a few gypos that hand cut their own stuff. Bigger companies sometimes hire cutters but not often. Yes more mills are popping up and I hope the industry comes back a bit here

 

[steve easy]

Oh about a year and a half , but I don't cut every day anymore so less running time than that. Used it real heavy at first.
Only thing I don't like about it is that you have to cut a bit at first for the mtronic to set the fuel right.

Yeah I'm pretty worried now that I know it's a pos, definitely won't be able to make the money I was before. Might have to throw it in the bushes real quick if someone comes around. You know, embarrassment and all.

I myself am not a big brand preference guy. I think it's the whole Ford Chevy dodge thing.

I hide mine in a tool box. Only comes out if I get stuck on the deck which is embarrassing anyway. More interested in run hours rather than time, mine and a whole lot of others didn't make it much past 100hrs.

 

[bnmc98]

way way past 100 hrs.
If I remember right, there was a serial number batch that if you got them before they made some corrections, you were prone to problems. Actually think I got that info from this site. Anyway, mine is after that serial number.
Really, the only glitch in mine like I said is the M-tronic is sometimes a little quirky, but you get used to it. Super smooth, tons of power, great felling saw IMO.
I have nothing against Husky. Like I said I run one also, I just have never had a newer one. Had a 288 I liked.

 

[northmanlogging]

Am I the only one amused by the husky guys preaching how good they are except you know all the **** that falls off em... but once you fix that three or four times they are great saws...?

Boots break, but its fixable

The seals are **** but fixable

the handles fall off but don't mind that

the stop switch garbage but I replace the choke weekly so I can kill it...

And you guys are still fans?

Bad as the chevy guys claiming the 17 square body rust buckets in the back yard are collectors and very rare and best truck every made... yet none of them run, or turn left?

 

[northmanlogging]

I mean **** by the time you get done fixin all the crap whats wrong with em you could have bought a Stihl and had money to take the War Dept out for a night on the town and some pagan holiday stuff.

 

[Westboastfaller]

You can't buy capillaries,
The rest I can afford

 

[Westboastfaller]

way way past 100 hrs.
If I remember right, there was a serial number batch that if you got them before they made some corrections, you were prone to problems. Actually think I got that info from this site. Anyway, mine is after that serial number.
Really, the only glitch in mine like I said is the M-tronic is sometimes a little quirky, but you get used to it. Super smooth, tons of power, great felling saw IMO.
I have nothing against Husky. Like I said I run one also, I just have never had a newer one. Had a 288 I liked.

Right, it was a recall BTW. 2014, crank issue. Definitely more come with Husqvarna. There have had a few other issues , I've seen the case break by the bracket but I IDK the whole story?
Myy first 371 and a 575 both had leaks.
the 562 was a Lemmon for years, loaded with problems (crank, carb ect) but turned out to be a great saw. The 385 and 365 were both recalled with crank issues as well they cane out the Zama carb on the 365. The 365 was to be a consumer saw with a different crank to justify the price but that didn't work for them, so it was upgraded and the price stayed down.
You always try not to buy a new model the first year.
I wont run out and buy the 462 but I am interested for the AV mounting finely.

 

[bitzer]

Am I the only one amused by the husky guys preaching how good they are except you know all the **** that falls off em... but once you fix that three or four times they are great saws...?

Boots break, but its fixable

The seals are **** but fixable

the handles fall off but don't mind that

the stop switch garbage but I replace the choke weekly so I can kill it...

And you guys are still fans?

Bad as the chevy guys claiming the 17 square body rust buckets in the back yard are collectors and very rare and best truck every made... yet none of them run, or turn left?

There's a laundry list for Stihls too Northy. He was asking about 390s. I had one 390 that was a lemon that got ironed out. I've never had a crank seal fail or needed to replace the choke lever. I did have the throttle lock fall off on first few saws but I realized I was flexing the **** out of it over time. The Stihls I used to run (440/460 and some homeowner models) the rubber mounts sucked and the air filtration was just silly bad. There's plenty I don't remember either. Both saws suck in my opinion for what you pay for them.

 

[steve easy]

661 here is 2.6k, 390 is 2.2k with your choice of bar length. My 661 had every thing mtronic replaced several times, had the quirky thing about it too where it wouldn't wake up and cut properly tried the reset thing, every time it was switched off same quirky ****. When your replying on your saw to make an income the quirkyness adds up to a lot of lost cutting time. I have stihls that I like, but husky is a more reliable package in the 90cc range.

 

[bnmc98]

Everyone has a bad experience with something.

You don't have to like the 661

I like mine and never had a problem with it.

 

[northmanlogging]

Ive heard that all of the mtronic stuff needs to be cleaned regularly or it acts up

 

[northmanlogging]

As for filters all they need is blown off every couple of days, not like they need replaced daily or ever

 

[009L]

I mean **** by the time you get done fixin all the crap whats wrong with em you could have bought a Stihl and had money to take the War Dept out for a night on the town and some pagan holiday stuff.

I was trying hard to talk myself into buying a new 661 because I've had good luck with Stihl saws in the past. (009, 026, 044, 461) However, After quite a bit of reading and asking some questions, I decided to go with the 390. Yes, the 390 is a 10-11 year old design but I felt Stihl hasn't worked out all the bugs quite yet.

Here are some of the notes I've collected/copy-pasted on the 661 from (Edit: OPE forum) and it's members. It's pretty random/slapped together but you'll get the idea.

Pat
661 Notes

boot "straight boot" = 1144 141 2202 retail $20 (intake boot) (Solid vs Bellowed...Solid is better...washers were for bellowed boot to give it more strength, do not use) Gas cap IS NOT the problem...intake boot would collapse under vacuum without washers.

Coil: new coil "4701 A" on the actual unit. Stihl part # = 1144 400 1420 (Control Module...old one causes it to bog) This new coil "control module" fattens the saw up a bunch. The bog was caused by it being too lean on the low side.....(The new control module is 1144-400-4720 ???)

per stihl tech

"4700 C" & "4700 D" allow the saw to go too lean. They are warrant-able. Meaning if you make a stink like it's not running right. They will replace it with the new "4701 A"

"4700 E" is good and not warrantable.

4700E and 4701A have higher fuel values than 4700c 4700d.


Reset per stihl tech -
1. start saw on choke. let it run on choke 90 seconds. switch OFF. note: I personally hold the saw and keep the chain brake off cuz the chain likes to run just a little)
2. now restart saw and just let it idle. Don't touch throttle at all. 90 seconds of idling. then switch OFF
3. restart saw and make at least 5 cuts. You will feel the saw change for each cut...kinda cool.

Yes Sir.
1. Solder all wire connectors
2. 90 seconds on choke, then OFF
3. 90 seconds idle, then OFF
4. Cut big stuff
I've found a large amount of varying resistance throughout the harnesses. Soldering took away the pesky gremlins.

I've seen a bunch of these, and in one or another I've come across bad connections at just about every connector if you combine them all.

I make sure to solder everything, make sure its got the 4701 coil, and the straight boot, no problems after them steps yet
I like to put a small 20* bevel on the intake side of pistons on the skirt....instead of the sharp edge scraping the oil off the side of the cyl the bevel seems to hold it in better....also I think it helps with the incoming rush of air and fuel into the case....plus if you bevel it to half the thickness of the piston it doesn't change intake timing.....jmo

 

[Westboastfaller]

661 here is 2.6k, 390 is 2.2k with your choice of bar length. My 661 had every thing mtronic replaced several times, had the quirky thing about it too where it wouldn't wake up and cut properly tried the reset thing, every time it was switched off same quirky ****. When your replying on your saw to make an income the quirkyness adds up to a lot of lost cutting time. I have stihls that I like, but husky is a more reliable package in the 90cc range.

That's mud in your own face. You phucked up! It's well known that you don't run out and buy a new model. let other people be the lab Rat. In '96 and 2006 I was in a position that I had to do it and they would race when I put the heat into them but other than that they were good saws. I was going to get the 575 ported but ended up buying a 357 from walkers ported for slashing and snag falling in the interior on Seismic lines. What an amazing little saw! This saw had been out for 4-5 years already. In order to get the sweet spot (smooth) I'll would run it so lean that I had trouble hot starting it, it just wouldn't prime. I would have to move the low back or wait. So I start getting this buzz on the high end... Is something lose??is it a little twig that worked it's way up that I can't see???
No! it's the front of the tank that is separating at the seem down a 1"/12.
I could see the paint that was rubbing off in the case.
I could also tell the inside Ridge of the gas tank needed rounding. I used an aluminum saddle at the front of the tank and took the tank off and took my round file to the top Ridge of inner high side.
Problems solved. I made over 100 quick grand with that little saw. In 2009 I pick up another one for $150.00 that needs top end work. Very new saw. So after the season, I go to make my tank improvmen's and much to my suprise, Husqvarna had at least rounded the top Ridge. Never did fix the splitting of the tank part..and then the carbs went to chit.
Some things take time, I think they are both ignorant. Maybe I am worth more to them than buying a saw and Bitçhing elsewhere.... let you all know have it goes.

....On a bighter note.. Mike Lee can port nice falling saws to please even a little Bitçh like me...haha. X2 , that is not an easy task . That's confidence in ability to read ones preception and put it to an art, which is an art on it own
To be open is to be great.

 

[Westboastfaller]

I was trying hard to talk myself into buying a new 661 because I've had good luck with Stihl saws in the past. (009, 026, 044, 461) However, After quite a bit of reading and asking some questions, I decided to go with the 390. Yes, the 390 is a 10-11 year old design but I felt Stihl hasn't worked out all the bugs quite yet.

Here are some of the notes I've collected/copy-pasted on the 661 from (Edit: *********) and it's members. It's pretty random/slapped together but you'll get the idea.

Pat
661 Notes

boot "straight boot" = 1144 141 2202 retail $20 (intake boot) (Solid vs Bellowed...Solid is better...washers were for bellowed boot to give it more strength, do not use) Gas cap IS NOT the problem...intake boot would collapse under vacuum without washers.

Coil: new coil "4701 A" on the actual unit. Stihl part # = 1144 400 1420 (Control Module...old one causes it to bog) This new coil "control module" fattens the saw up a bunch. The bog was caused by it being too lean on the low side.....(The new control module is 1144-400-4720 ???)

per stihl tech

"4700 C" & "4700 D" allow the saw to go too lean. They are warrant-able. Meaning if you make a stink like it's not running right. They will replace it with the new "4701 A"

"4700 E" is good and not warrantable.

4700E and 4701A have higher fuel values than 4700c 4700d.


Reset per stihl tech -
1. start saw on choke. let it run on choke 90 seconds. switch OFF. note: I personally hold the saw and keep the chain brake off cuz the chain likes to run just a little)
2. now restart saw and just let it idle. Don't touch throttle at all. 90 seconds of idling. then switch OFF
3. restart saw and make at least 5 cuts. You will feel the saw change for each cut...kinda cool.

Yes Sir.
1. Solder all wire connectors
2. 90 seconds on choke, then OFF
3. 90 seconds idle, then OFF
4. Cut big stuff
I've found a large amount of varying resistance throughout the harnesses. Soldering took away the pesky gremlins.

I've seen a bunch of these, and in one or another I've come across bad connections at just about every connector if you combine them all.

I make sure to solder everything, make sure its got the 4701 coil, and the straight boot, no problems after them steps yet
I like to put a small 20* bevel on the intake side of pistons on the skirt....instead of the sharp edge scraping the oil off the side of the cyl the bevel seems to hold it in better....also I think it helps with the incoming rush of air and fuel into the case....plus if you bevel it to half the thickness of the piston it doesn't change intake timing.....jmo

First paragraph??? You made a great choice!!!
I run a 21 yrs old suspension. but it's miles a head of the 461, sad to say. Its only beautiful if you tune it to beautiful.
I gave you a like so I hope you didn't murder any one in the middle of that post?

 

[KiwiBro]

I was trying hard to talk myself into buying a new 661 because I've had good luck with Stihl saws in the past. (009, 026, 044, 461) However, After quite a bit of reading and asking some questions, I decided to go with the 390. Yes, the 390 is a 10-11 year old design but I felt Stihl hasn't worked out all the bugs quite yet.

The lack of speedy recovery and resolution to Steve's and others 661 problems here in NZ and the recommendations of others I respect were the main reasons I ended up with a 395 when I originally thought of a 661. I still marvel at how much Stihl screwed up the re/release of their flagship saw. Amazing a company of this size, with so many resources, so much time and skilled people, could screw it up like they did, and rolled it out without enforcing or providing the requisite education of dealers to deal with the ensuing problems. There were a number in NZ who didn't have a clue and were simply parts-swappers hoping the problems would go away. Some dealers here felt burned just as much as the saw owners, from what I can gather.

 

[steve easy]

@Westboastfaller. Can't see how I phucked up brought in 2015 they had been out for awhile, heard whispers of coil problems but they had them resolved. Phucking up would be buying another or recommending them as great saws I reckon. Out of curiosity how many hours do you put on a 390 before you get another?

 

[Westboastfaller]

@Westboastfaller. Can't see how I phucked up brought in 2015 they had been out for awhile, heard whispers of coil problems but they had them resolved. Phucking up would be buying another or recommending them as great saws I reckon. Out of curiosity how many hours do you put on a 390 before you get another?

It takes what it takes doesn't it.? Please don't be so literal. Let's not contridict ourselves.
You either Jumped in to soon? Or you got a lemmon. History will judge the rest. Talk about YOUR experience and that would be more helpful.

I don't run 390's Steve. It's pretty much what Bitzer said... one saw a year.
West coast is 200 days and 6 hours . running. 1200 hours and thats our expectations of the crank and structure.
Top end will go for ever with new rings. A 390 will last longer in CONSTANT big wood than a 372/ 365 bottom
but it doesn't mean anything , 1200 hours for all. Doesn't mean you can't retire it and get a couple of year? thats just not my business, Roger?

Aaaaahhhhaaaha nobody gets the joke.
My saws are done way before
the cranks/engine. 50/1 and reved to hell.
1200 hours is good.