Farmertech 372xp wont hold a tune

[Alanmurphy6912]

Can swap em out for 6202 C3 bearings from a bearing supply house. A good quality Nachi or FAG etc bearing with metal cage would do the trick.

Yea the cheapest I've found for good bearings was some skf bearings for 50 bucks on ebay I think with a gasket kit if I remember right. Just havent had the extra cash to rebuild those yet. Not sure if the 372 is worth rebuilding. It needs quite a lot of parts. Entire top end bottom end, crank,chain cover,recoil, kill switch, and who only knows what else,the o ring behind the clutch spacer,and I'm sure some other odds and ends. I'd like to take eit back to factory x torq and test it against my 372 clone that is non x torq.

 

[BrettS]

Yea the cheapest I've found for good bearings was some skf bearings for 50 bucks on ebay I think with a gasket kit if I remember right. Just havent had the extra cash to rebuild those yet. Not sure if the 372 is worth rebuilding. It needs quite a lot of parts. Entire top end bottom end, crank,chain cover,recoil, kill switch, and who only knows what else,the o ring behind the clutch spacer,and I'm sure some other odds and ends. I'd like to take eit back to factory x torq and test it against my 372 clone that is non x torq.

Here is my 372 before I started rebuilding it. I used quality 6202 bearings from my local bearing supply house, a China piston and China seal and gaskets and the saw still runs like a top years later.

 

[cuttinupferalivin]

I'm happy to report that my 372 clone is now running fine with a zama carb and oem tank vent sorta modified to fit on it. But now I've recieved a couple other project saws and I have a couple questions. I recieved a stihl 036 needs top end no biggy amd also a 2016 372 xp x torq and it needs basically everything from the crank up. The lower rod bearing came aprt and destroyed everything just about. My question is will a regular 372 non x torq crank fit the x torq?

When I was new to all this I couldn’t believe the price on the hutzle saws. I hastily ordered closet to a dozen and a whole lot of parts for other saws from hutzlforma
The name should’ve had my suspicions higher than it had at the time but greed had me by the ears and I started into r putting the saws together
In the field, starter covers broke. I pulled my guts out repeatedly on a few of them before understanding the coils were junk.
Stripped flywheel key ways were next to find out. Then a oil pump fell to pieces by itself literally. I figured I better check a cylinder so I pulled a muffler. The walls were dark brown. ???(262)
Then a crank bearing Grenada’s but not before the clips flew out of a couple saws a few months prior to all this.
The brake knee joint broke on a couple(372).
Well… maybe the bolts are good. I can save some money with those so I boxed up a half p u load of junk saws and junk new parts and sold it all to a guy .
I informed him of all this.
Guess what? One of those bolts I just mentioned? One broke off in a brand new Meteor cycling intake side(272). And no, I did not over torque it. …

 

[cuttinupferalivin]

Yea the cheapest I've found for good bearings was some skf bearings for 50 bucks on ebay I think with a gasket kit if I remember right. Just havent had the extra cash to rebuild those yet. Not sure if the 372 is worth rebuilding. It needs quite a lot of parts. Entire top end bottom end, crank,chain cover,recoil, kill switch, and who only knows what else,the o ring behind the clutch spacer,and I'm sure some other odds and ends. I'd like to take eit back to factory x torq and test it against my 372 clone that is non x torq.You can pick up quality fag ska timken a host of quality manufactured bearings for 8 bucks. If you’re paying more than ten someone just took you for a ride and you payed for the gas oil and food

 

[cuttinupferalivin]

Quality 6202 c-3 bearings should be no more than ten bucks, twelve on the high side….

 

[BrettS]

When I was new to all this I couldn’t believe the price on the hutzle saws. I hastily ordered closet to a dozen and a whole lot of parts for other saws from hutzlforma
The name should’ve had my suspicions higher than it had at the time but greed had me by the ears and I started into r putting the saws together
In the field, starter covers broke. I pulled my guts out repeatedly on a few of them before understanding the coils were junk.
Stripped flywheel key ways were next to find out. Then a oil pump fell to pieces by itself literally. I figured I better check a cylinder so I pulled a muffler. The walls were dark brown. ???(262)
Then a crank bearing Grenada’s but not before the clips flew out of a couple saws a few months prior to all this.
The brake knee joint broke on a couple(372).
Well… maybe the bolts are good. I can save some money with those so I boxed up a half p u load of junk saws and junk new parts and sold it all to a guy .
I informed him of all this.
Guess what? One of those bolts I just mentioned? One broke off in a brand new Meteor cycling intake side(272). And no, I did not over torque it. …

The early ones were a bit iffy, the later ones are mostly betterer quality afaia.

 

[9050LX]

Wish some quality minded company would clone the 372 and others (262) At least apparently these guys are attempting to get it right.Buying a used beat up saw for large money is a crapshoot.

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

Where are you getting the bearings that cheap? I'd love to get them for that price or even close to it lol I'm ordering bearings all the time

 

[camel2019]

Where are you getting the bearings that cheap? I'd love to get them for that price or even close to it lol I'm ordering bearings all the time

My local bearing supplier is reasonably priced and they mostly have stuff that made either in North America Europe or japan

 

[camel2019]

Wish some quality minded company would clone the 372 and others (262) At least apparently these guys are attempting to get it right.Buying a used beat up saw for large money is a crapshoot.

Their on the fourth generation of these clones now.

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

Quality 6202 c-3 bearings should be no more than ten bucks, twelve on the high side….

Are these the bearings I'd need? I know he 6202 c3 are the same the 272 takes. Wasnt sure about the 372 x torq. But yea my bad I guess I've never searched just a single bearing on ebay. I wonder if my local part stores would have them

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

Wish some quality minded company would clone the 372 and others (262) At least apparently these guys are attempting to get it right.Buying a used beat up saw for large money is a crapshoot.

Yea I'm with you on that,I bought a 660 clone kit from a company called neo tech and they claim there not affiliated with hutzl or farmertech and also claim there saws are higher quality. I'm not 100% sure about all there saws but the 660 clones kits where better quality than the farmertech 372 clone kit parts I recieved and all the parts where there. The 372 clone I built ,that this thread started from.. was missing a bunch of parts and pieces and had quite a bit of quality control issues i had to fix myself. All in all was still a fun build and now an awesome saw... months later and a liberal amount of cussing. So I agree I wished they'd up there game just a little bit. The problem with neo tech is they dont have a 372 kit yet. All I've seen was the 660, the 038 and I think the 070 ? But at any rate my 660 i built from them i dropped a hyway pop up piston and caber rings into there China cylinder and it's been a screamer ever since. Full wrap handle,custom dual port muffler and so on. I did however.buy an oem husky decompression switch h for the stihls because if it comes apart itll ruin a cylinder. Where as in some of the huskys if it comes apart there isn't anywhere for it to go. But I plug mine off on all the smaller saws. Dont need them and they all seem to leak.

 

[huskihl]

Are these the bearings I'd need? I know he 6202 c3 are the same the 272 takes. Wasnt sure about the 372 x torq. But yea my bad I guess I've never searched just a single bearing on ebay. I wonder if my local part stores would have them

Most of us buy the shielded or sealed bearings because they’re a couple $ cheaper. And then just pop the seals or shields out with a pick

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6202-ZZ-C3...p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

Most of us buy the shielded or sealed bearings because they’re a couple $ cheaper. And then just pop the seals or shields out with a pick

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6202-ZZ-C3...p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Ok awesome that's a good tip. Not sure why I didnt think of that since I've taken them shields off and cleaned/and greased bearings a million times and put the shields back in lol I guess I just didnt notice they where cheaper. Thanks for the tip. I ordered all the parts I need for the 036 so I'll be rebuilding that soon. I gotta get some pictures of the new 372 and see if yall know why this happened to it. And or why how this sorta corrosion happened to the crank case.

 

[9050LX]

A lot of applications for shielded bearings.Had a lot of luck temporarily removing shields, blowing out with pressurized water, re-greasing.Just don't spin without lubing them.

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

A lot of applications for shielded bearings.Had a lot of luck temporarily removing shields, blowing out with pressurized water, re-greasing.Just don't spin without lubing them.

That's a good tip on not spinning before lubing them!

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

My parts will be in tomorrow or Thursday for the 036 so I'll keep yall posted and with pics of the 372 also. Been busy running scrap steel in since the price is like 400 a ton!

 

[link]

Farmer tech crank in which one? The new oem 372 x torq? Yea I thought about it. I need a crank,bearings,seals amd a complete top end for it. Also a chain cover and recoil to make that a complete power head. Also a kill switch. I've never ran an x torq 372 I hear good and bad from people. Good I have heard is awesome power,bad I've heard is plastic caged bearings, prone to fail this and that idk

As I like to gather multiple parts from different vendors when I build my saw so that I can choose and discard, I have a Bashe crankshaft for my 365 kit that is made in Turkey and should be equal or similar to OEM. I actually choose the Farmertec one this time.
Turned out straight and true too, proper machined, proper tolerances and made by proper metal.

 

[link]

Wish some quality minded company would clone the 372 and others (262) At least apparently these guys are attempting to get it right.Buying a used beat up saw for large money is a crapshoot.

As I like to gather multiple parts from different vendors when I build my saw, I bought a crankhousing for my 365 kit from a UK shop labeled "Derwenmachine" - just another distribution company I guess. It was actually in a Farmertec bag but the crankcase was really - really nice and it had a production sign on it - not like the one in the kit. The machining and tolerances is exactly the same, but pretty much perfect casting and coating finish - not like the one in the kit.
I would not hasitate if I bought it as OEM and the production mark was a "H".

I bought the OEM crankshaft sleeve for the oilpump, the metal cylinder that goes on to the cranshaft and in to the crank seal.
The Farmertec has the same tolerances and has a machined surface and a bevel to accommodate the super thin o-ring seal that seals against the bearing inner race.
The OEM has a sandblown finish and no bevel to accommodate the o-ring. I use gasket silicone to seal it but the machined surface should be kinder on the crank seal.

Dont forget gasket silicone or other non-hard screw seal on the oilpump screws now, they go right in to the bottom end of the engine.

 

[Alanmurphy6912]

As I like to gather multiple parts from different vendors when I build my saw, I bought a crankhousing for my 365 kit from a UK shop labeled "Derwenmachine" - just another distribution company I guess. It was actually in a Farmertec bag but the crankcase was really - really nice and it had a production sign on it - not like the one in the kit. The machining and tolerances is exactly the same, but pretty much perfect casting and coating finish - not like the one in the kit.
I would not hasitate if I bought it as OEM and the production mark was a "H".

I bought the OEM crankshaft sleeve for the oilpump, the metal cylinder that goes on to the cranshaft and in to the crank seal.
The Farmertec has the same tolerances and has a machined surface and a bevel to accommodate the super thin o-ring seal that seals against the bearing inner race.
The OEM has a sandblown finish and no bevel to accommodate the o-ring. I use gasket silicone to seal it but the machined surface should be kinder on the crank seal.

Dont forget gasket silicone or other non-hard screw seal on the oilpump screws now, they go right in to the bottom end of the engine.

Yes sir what "H" mark are you talking about ? And I got the parts for my 036 not the 372 yet but I will have an order in hopefully this weekend for all the stuff I need