Federal Airtight 264CCL Questions

[Wood Doctor]

If I owned that 264CCL, I would never sell it, nor would I trade it out for a pellet stove. I have no choice but to ask you why you are doing this. Lady, as shown below while relaxing in front of her 288, would also like to know:

 

[webgurl]

Because I am not able to chop and stack wood. But I can take pellets from a barrel with a scoop and put them in a bucket and carry in whatever I can a bit at a time.
I am selling this as they said the new pellet insert will fit. It's coming on the 9th of November. So basically this is a brand new stove which I am told can also be used as a standalone if you put feet on it.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Because I am not able to chop and stack wood. But I can take pellets from a barrel with a scoop and put them in a bucket and carry in whatever I can a bit at a time.
I am selling this as they said the new pellet insert will fit. It's coming on the 9th of November. So basically this is a brand new stove which I am told can also be used as a standalone if you put feet on it.

But, you have to buy the pellets. Nothing is free. Two truckloads of dry firewood delivered and stacked, about a cord and a half, would cost you $240 in Nebraska. That's what my customers pay me.

 

[I brew beer]

Well, that tool awhile to read. I just bought a clean looking 264 off CL for $300. I am waiting for my liner and other parts to arrive. I need to ship back a bunch of parts, maybe. Extra parts include the stock center gs one off rill (i have a fabricated one that seems to work) and the baffle under the combuster. Mine has a small inch or two crack--could last a long time. The $69 gasket set is a waste as i have only the doors to do and the damper. I plan on going through the flu to get to the damper, might be imprecise placement but better than nothing. The stove was in use. I was so amped up i went to garage and immediately broke a bolt holding the glass in: gaskets are gd. I was just trying to straighten the frame out. I guess I will buy some rope and cement today to put the gaskets in. I ll return the $210 blower for the faso one off electric motor warehouse for $65. I also managed a screen fo $45 on ebay. I will paint it a 3rd time, 3 gaskets, new clean air cat $70, and put it to use. It was going to be replaced, but if it works well for my 2300 center hall colonial i ll keep it. I also ordered the stove pipe damper, hopefuy she's airtight.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Welcome to the forum. You are saving a good stove. My 288 has been running since 1987. The 264 is just a slightly smaller version. You have to get the hang of using it, but once you master it, I think you will like it.

Biggest squawk most people have is the cat combustion, but read back earlier in this thread and you will see how I got around it with very little loss in efficiency.

 

[I brew beer]

Thanks, I have burned for 13 years: 44 gallon (barrel) stove and an insert. The insert was noncat and hardly ever engaged the "after burner," always had the fan on to boot. I imagine my efficiency was about $40% on the insert. Hopefully, it all works out. I like the stove, Like an idiot a snapped the bolt. The door case for the glass. I think cement will probably work out. It's easier enough to monitor. One thing from this forum, is leave well enough alone. I got money into it, so I have to get use out of it. I think about $500: 300 for stove, $100 for blower, (incl. restocking fee of $20 for ebay rippoff pump), new cat and temp. probe. The original cat (old cat) looked well enough, but I need this baby to perform. I'll give it a try and keep the $70 clear sky.com (something like that) on the shelf. About to order a hearth pad. I am into it for $500, $725 for the liner/dbl wall stove pipe with secondary damper/25' insulation, and $500 for hearthpad.: $1750 with paint and gaskets incl. Not bad at all, considering I was thinking about buying a VC Resolute floor model for $1600 with a baby 1.7cu ft box.
The cast iron plate in the back looks good, there was some use, but not crazy. Like I said, previously the center grate is fabricated. I ordered a new baffle (holes beneath the cat) and center grate. That's an extra $100. Should I keep it for the shelf, or return and see how it goes: my $100 question. I picked an exp. site to order from, so I think. The iron plates on the inside are not a screw driver, but a bolt. Leads me to think they were replaced. I guess the stove is the late 80's, as it's not allowed to be sold after '92.
The head for the ash pan stripped out, and the guy put a bolt in there. I could also use a vent screen as part of it rusted away. Oh yeah, $55 for the brass handle. Again, I used an exp. site. It might go for $35 on woodland or campstove or blackswan. I am listening to my oil burner--ugh. At least it's new, I just moved into a 10 year vacant zombie house that a builder flipped: it had 4 notes on it...

 

[Wood Doctor]

Thanks, I have burned for 13 years: 44 gallon (barrel) stove and an insert. The insert was noncat and hardly ever engaged the "after burner," always had the fan on to boot. I imagine my efficiency was about $40% on the insert. Hopefully, it all works out. I like the stove, Like an idiot a snapped the bolt. The door case for the glass. I think cement will probably work out. It's easier enough to monitor. One thing from this forum, is leave well enough alone. I got money into it, so I have to get use out of it. I think about $500: 300 for stove, $100 for blower, (incl. restocking fee of $20 for ebay rippoff pump), new cat and temp. probe. The original cat (old cat) looked well enough, but I need this baby to perform. I'll give it a try and keep the $70 clear sky.com (something like that) on the shelf. About to order a hearth pad. I am into it for $500, $725 for the liner/dbl wall stove pipe with secondary damper/25' insulation, and $500 for hearthpad.: $1750 with paint and gaskets incl. Not bad at all, considering I was thinking about buying a VC Resolute floor model for $1600 with a baby 1.7cu ft box.
The cast iron plate in the back looks good, there was some use, but not crazy. Like I said, previously the center grate is fabricated. I ordered a new baffle (holes beneath the cat) and center grate. That's an extra $100. Should I keep it for the shelf, or return and see how it goes: my $100 question. I picked an exp. site to order from, so I think. The iron plates on the inside are not a screw driver, but a bolt. Leads me to think they were replaced. I guess the stove is the late 80's, as it's not allowed to be sold after '92.
The head for the ash pan stripped out, and the guy put a bolt in there. I could also use a vent screen as part of it rusted away. Oh yeah, $55 for the brass handle. Again, I used an exp. site. It might go for $35 on woodland or campstove or blackswan. I am listening to my oil burner--ugh. At least it's new, I just moved into a 10 year vacant zombie house that a builder flipped: it had 4 notes on it...

I replaced the back plate on the stove about 5 years ago with a solid 1/4" steel plate from a welder's shop. I drilled the holes for the bolts that hang it in place. It's holding up rather well and made a huge difference. If I buy another, I will bump that to 5/16" steel. As I said before, when that cat baffle gave up, I replaced it all and no longer use a cat as described in this thread.

Ever notice all the notes on property? People live on debt these days. That's wrecked our economy.

 

[I brew beer]

First note was 224k and they all added up to over 600k. I paid 420 after they bought it for 224k. Almost new house, new boiler to roof. So my hearthpad is going to 1/8 of an inch too high. I imagine I can install no problem, as I have 8 to 10'' to go into the zc fireplace. Yeah the draft is going down, but my 25' chase/insulated liner within a dbl wall 8'' liner should pull it out. Not to mention, I live on across from a farm so it's always windy here: Eastern LI. I knew of a house where a guy took 3 more notes of the house, the same day application for all 3, then when back to Pakastan with 300+K.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Around here if the wind is from the south and the temperature is rising, it will produce a downdraft and make it really tough to light a fireplace or stove. A falling barometer just makes it worse. Keep that in mind. Whenever that happens, I open a window for a few seconds until the chimney draft is established. That works.

 

[I brew beer]

Good to know. I can fudge 1/8'' but not 3/8''. I need to keep looking for a 1.25 R = 0.8 or better pad. So no cat, but you burn hotter, and shorter? I did read the whole thread, a refresher would be good. Thanks

UPDATE: This ceramic board looks to be it for $173: http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Wood-...th-Pads/HY-C-Sandstone-Tile-Type-2-Hearth-Pad

That's a big savings too. I'll get my stove in for $1500. My builders fireplace/zero clearance has 29'' to work with. So the Stove is 28'' high (short legs) and 1/2'' ceramic board: Boom! I hope I like the stove, I don't mind messing with it, and it's has to be the biggest I would get under my ZC fireplace. 22'' logs! I was at my wood pile, laughing at the size of 21" logs. The VC resolute offers 16", but really 14" usable: No creative angling there!

 

[Wood Doctor]

Good to know. I can fudge 1/8'' but not 3/8''. I need to keep looking for a 1.25 R = 0.8 or better pad. So no cat, but you burn hotter, and shorter? I did read the whole thread, a refresher would be good. Thanks

My shop-made "cat" is a 1/4" thick steel plate with holes drilled in it for the exhaust. It eventually gets red hot and works about like a cat does, burning the excess smoke up:


It rests on a collar where the cat used to be:



This is the part that I replaced along with the cat:


Running full bore, there is no visible smoke leaving my chimney:


The flue on the far right is the wood stove chimney. When this picture was taken, I was running the stove full bore and the other two flues were dormant.

 

[I brew beer]

Great pics. I thought the part you replaced was the baffle. Mine looks like your old one. I am going to keep the new one. I just won't mess with it this yr, as I imagine i ll have to drill out bolts. My collar seems gd. Hoping for an install this Sat. I got my wood pile going and it's going down to 29 tonight.

 

[I brew beer]

Why would the brass handle come wuth a spring? I got everything for the install but the hearth pad. Maybe install this Sun. The ripoff $209 blower from ebay came. Idk the specs of it (cfm?) it does have quite low speed and a much higher high speed. The other one from electric motor warehouse is one speed at 60cfm.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Why would the brass handle come wuth a spring? I got everything for the install but the hearth pad. Maybe install this Sun. The ripoff $209 blower from ebay came. Idk the specs of it (cfm?) it does have quite low speed and a much higher high speed. The other one from electric motor warehouse is one speed at 60cfm.

The brass handles on my stove have no springs attached, nor do they have any strings attached. I have no idea why you ordered a blower for $209. I think you need to reduce the number of beers that you buy from your own brewery.

 

[I brew beer]

I ordered it before I got through the thread. Waiting to see the other one before I returned it. I got the clear sky cat combuster to fit (slightly larger). Which may not be as gd as the old one. I was checking clearances and came across that no surface should be hotter than the ambient room temp by 115F. So 70 means the mantle trim that I am slightly worried about (smaller than2" and you are fine) at 17-18 will be measured with my yet to order Harbor Freight Infrared thermometer and represent a problem approaching 185F. Obviously, I ll work up to a large fire. Mantles deeper than 13" represent a problem too and need a shield.

 

[I brew beer]

Sanded a bit tonight. Will coat tomorrow and the next day. The gaskets are all gd,minus the door. I m sticking with the Lowe's gaskets and sending back the kit. The cheap faso pump came, but my electrician said he liked the exp one: heavier, 2 sp switch, and the cheaper one is rated for only 40C. Hearth pad and magnetic switch is the only thing I am waiting on. I also boiled the cat for 30 min (viniger and distilled water), rinsed with distilled water and letting it dry for a week. Sat is a 6hr mtb race and Sun might be windy. Idk when I ll get it in, but getting there.

 

[I brew beer]

Top is off, broke one but got in out with gd threads. The center bolt by the cat broke, but i may of read that as newer and may not replace it. Will rope with 3/8 gasket and recement once I but new bolts.

 

[I brew beer]

Need to grind an1/8 of an inch off the bottom tap to get more threads on my 5/16 tap (drill out with anF bit or 7/64?, it's decimal .218). New baffle is heat treated in the oven. I painted the interior top as previously it was neglected and has some corrosion channels. Not awful as the Iron is thick. Definitely will use a gasket between top plate and front, 1/4 inch corrosive gap formed. Will use 3/8 rope and cement for the top. Maybe instal Sat.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Looks like good progress. I think the previous owner neglected this stove. Possibly it was never installed correctly, likely positioned ajar and that eventually set up the gaps with the internal strain on each major panel (top, sides, bottom, etc.)

Sealing all those gaps will not be easy. Let us know how it works out. I have a furnace that talks to me these days. It's about the same age.

 

[I brew beer]

Done. 1 m of 3/8 gasket installed with more to go when I put the top on--this also includes the doors (i realize now it should be 1/2 gasket. The pic shows 4 vertical ropes and around the entire top plate in the air chambers, plus 1/4 gap in front. A few small vertical ones in the back. Cement plus rope plus more cement, 3 hrs tonight. Installed new baffle and ran a tap in the tops threads: all gd. The gaps are def warpage, but nothing insane. Baffle was not too bad. Install top tomorrow after tapping center with a 5/16 bolt. Right now I have the 4 corners, i had only two plus the center. So i figure the center is gravy, as i read it was not on all stoves. I may not get too many threads.