GASoline71
Mr. Nice Guy
LMAO... lighten up Francis...
Gary
Gary
I can say that will never happen for me. I get out of the way just in case, Like i said, no pro here. Don't want to take any chances of getting hit. Would like to live a lot longer.lolI can tell you right now that alot of people will disagree with this but the open faced notch is a good candidate for kickback and all around just isent a good idea imo.
Hay I never got to cut in anything that was flat so i cut alot of humboldts and they usually arent more than 25 degrees unless a wider face it is called for. and when there arent any out of the norm aspects like vines, widow makers, trees that are intertwined, trees that have strange bends or "pistol grips" or trees that will be coming in contact with other trees. i usually just chill by the stump and watch gravity do its part.
Hay old man I have been getting MY job done for the last few years without too many hitches I really dont want to get angry here but you have NO IEDA of my experience on this topic.
If a 100+ foot tall white oak on a 40 degree slope with a good 15 degree lean dosent classify as a head leaner then i am a moose in florida...
If a tree has side lean it can be "dutched" which one,ones would you THINK i am talking about 2dogs?
Or are you just a know it all old fart that thinks it couldent be possible for some young punk like me to know squat about cutting tumber?
I dont care what you think about my skills and technique but i WILL NOT have yoou call me ignorant based upon YOUR assesment of my text.
i am a young punk and you are an old frump.
Call me stupid, ha your funny old ass...
The entire state of Oregroin wishes to apologize.
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(The more common way to tell a guy that he can't cut is to offer him a new file.)
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Sorry to say but I'm forced to agree with a Californian.
At least with regard to cutting technique.
What I wouldn't give to spend a week in the forest watching and learning from a pro. It wouldn't make me a logger, but it would make me safer.Bad advice! You don't understand what a heavy head leaner is and how dangerous it is. I know you're just a kid out of high school but you should have enough sense to not give advice on topics you know nothing about.
Just Dutch it? What does that mean? A swing Dutchman, or a step Dutchman, or a kerf Dutchman. or a block Dutchman? I know that was alot of terms to throw at you but your post once again shows your ignorance of the topic. Oh and how much side lean can you compensate for on 200' tall 4' DBH tree?
I'll take a free file.lolThe entire state of Oregroin wishes to apologize.
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(The more common way to tell a guy that he can't cut is to offer him a new file.)
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Sorry to say but I'm forced to agree with a Californian.
At least with regard to cutting technique.
Almost as fun as the oil threads.huhI just love these "notch" threads.
"Still can't picture a bore cut yet"
perhaps because the term "bore cut" can have 2 applications. one is parallel to the hinge and is used to decrease barber chair, the other is perpendicular and is used to cut the heart out (in the middle of the face) to prevent fiber pulling. mills dont like fiber pull.
I see how it works now, Knew you stuck the bar nose in first but didn't know where and why. I can see why you do it now for the heartwood not to pull the fibers out and the side bore for not barber chairing. I'm gonna try it on some easy and smaller trees. Tahnks a load guys.a bore cut is any cut made into the tree starting with the tip of the bar and basically stabbing it into the tree unlike a normal cut where you start at the side of the tree and cut across it. It allows you to cut into the tree but only make a small opening and allows you to leave wood on both sides of the cut
I i usually just chill by the stump and watch gravity do its part.
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