Felling wedges- damage?

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Ryan313

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I bought three felling wedges on eBay; I was curios as to how well they hold up to the beating. If the ends are prone to damage I will make some steel caps to prolong them. I am sure I will be able to tell how long they will last once I get them... But I don't want to wait. What do you guys think?
 
I've been pounding on the same three Oregon wedges for many years now and they haven't exactly been shown any mercy in oak trees, don't sweat it if your just cutting firewood it'll be a good long while before you kill them.
 
If you have the means to make the end caps for them and it is not too much trouble then it may be worth it to do so.

There are actually "hard headed" or metal protected wedges available from some suppliers.

Multiple things affect how long they will last--how hard you're driving them, what you're driving them with, how square your blows are.

Sooner or later you'll get into a situation where whatever you're trying to move and or get out is much more important than the $3-$5 wedge.

GfNnWcS.jpg


With that said anything that you can do to protect and prolong their life is probably a good thing, within reason.
 
If you have the means to make the end caps for them and it is not too much trouble then it may be worth it to do so.

There are actually "hard headed" or metal protected wedges available from some suppliers.

Multiple things affect how long they will last--how hard you're driving them, what you're driving them with, how square your blows are.

Sooner or later you'll get into a situation where whatever you're trying to move and or get out is much more important than the $3-$5 wedge.

GfNnWcS.jpg


With that said anything that you can do to protect and prolong their life is probably a good thing, within reason.

I use the stihl triple taper when can find um, otherwise order k&h I think they are the same. get a year or so outa them, like you say depends on how used.
 
I bought some of the 'Hard Head Junior' wedges with the steel inserts - supposed to last longer than the all plastic wedges, but not as heavy or expensive as the full steel cap.

They are heavy (pull your pants down!).

They were quite a bit more $.

We use wedges mostly for bucking, so maybe we don't beat them as hard as some other guys. Might depend on what you are driving/hitting them with too. The plastic ones get mushroomed heads and periodically get cut into with the saw. A few minutes on the bandsaw and belt/disc sander re-shapes/reconditions them for use. And, as noted, $3 to $5 on sale.

Philbert
 
I end up sawing into them. But they're still good for what I do. I merely "tap" on them because I'm bucking up already on the ground stuff.

I buy cheap plastic wedges because I also hit them with the saw long before I wear them out. That probably speaks to both my chainsaw accuracy as well as my axe muscle strength.
 
If you cut when it is cold outside, like below zero, keep them in your pocket when not in use. That will keep them from blowing up when you hit them cold.(thanks RandyMac for that!)

Ted
 
There's a reason for plastic wedges- minimal total damage if you hit one.

Restarting a cut after inserting wedge(s), with chisel chain, can result in some dancing of the bar. Stuff happens, at least you don't trash the chain. I've got a few sorry-looking wedges; they still work. :msp_thumbup:

I love wedges. :heart:
 
steel only

i like the wide taper of the metal wedge.and beat the crap out of it.k
 
If you have the means to make the end caps for them and it is not too much trouble then it may be worth it to do so.

There are actually "hard headed" or metal protected wedges available from some suppliers.

Multiple things affect how long they will last--how hard you're driving them, what you're driving them with, how square your blows are.

Sooner or later you'll get into a situation where whatever you're trying to move and or get out is much more important than the $3-$5 wedge.

GfNnWcS.jpg


With that said anything that you can do to protect and prolong their life is probably a good thing, within reason.[/QUOTE

Jesus Christ! Your doing something wrong!!
 
I bought 4 when I started and have sawed some and rounded the edges on the small one, they are $6-14, I will make some out of hard wood and use them too, I have yet to have to hit them really hard, but I see a lot of people pounding the crap out of them.

They sure are nice to have, I do a fair amount cutting stumps off at the ground i use them for that and the small one for bucking of coarse I just mash it in with a hand.
 
If you pound them square with a good ax, you can go till a 5 lb ax will bounce off hard enough to go over your shoulder and still have the wedge looking brand new...
 
They came early! I got them earlier today! I did try them out some. I kept the hits pretty square but one was a little off and took a small corner off.

I don't think I will have time this weekend, but I will make some steel caps this weekend; it should only take a few minutes so I am sure it will be worth it. That one picture was all of the persuasion I needed! Thanks guys!
 
Sounds to me like a solution in search of a problem, honestly.

Wedges are a cheap consumable, and their lifespan is directly correlated with the user's competence. If you hit straight, they will last a lot of trees. If you don't, or use them to make up for bad feling technique, then you'll bust them up in short order.
 
Sounds to me like a solution in search of a problem, honestly.

Wedges are a cheap consumable, and their lifespan is directly correlated with the user's competence. If you hit straight, they will last a lot of trees. If you don't, or use them to make up for bad feling technique, then you'll bust them up in short order.

Crap:cry:
 

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