File angle on cutters ?

[KsWoodsMan]

<P>I usually keep my chains sharp. When we're working, I'll stop and touch them up when getting fuel or if they start making more dust or seem slow. Otherwise the cutters get a couple of passes when I stop for any length of time or put up for the day. They make big chips when cutting which suites me. But I have wondered if there is very much difference in sharpening at 17, 25, 30 or 32 degrees. As long as all the cutters are filed the same, does it make much difference. Ive heard it said "it makes no difference whatsoever, just get'em sharp." Of course his saw would cut circles in the wood and couldn't get through 8" limbs. So that theory was out immediately.

<P>Anyone care to offer any input?

 

[Ohiowoodguy]

angle

Everyone around here does 30 degrees for hardwood; don't know what the PNW softwoods prefer.

 

[drmiller100]

the sharper the point, the faster it will cut, sort of, for a little while.

the less angle, or the more sideways, the longer the edge lasts lasts.

there is more to this, but in general, it gets pretty simple.

follow the witness marks on the top of the cutter.

 

[Patrick62]

You would use the "search" function

I would bet that you find a wealth of info regarding sharpening.
Pack a lunch, you are gonna be reading for awhile. :newbie:

I sharpen at 30 deg, just like everyone else. Fact is that the top plate isn't as critical as the side, and the all important corner. When that corner stops cutting the tooth isn't gonna do much.

opcorn:

-Pat

 

[KsWoodsMan]

the sharper the point, the faster it will cut, sort of, for a little while.

the less angle, or the more sideways, the longer the edge lasts lasts.

there is more to this, but in general, it gets pretty simple.

follow the witness marks on the top of the cutter.

It makes good sense that the point should be sharp since it is the first part of the cutter to go into the wood.

So it is partly a balance between the edge staying sharp and keeping the lateral forces low. To much angle and the cutters going through the wood twists the chain between each cutter causing the chain to bind in the guide rails. Or worse, fatiguing a link to the point of failure. To low of an angle and the cutters are clawing at the grain and not cutting efficiently.

I was mostly wondering if anyone had gone to the trouble to try different angles and might have noticed any difference making minor changes. Faster in the cut, uses less fuel, stays sharper longer or less wear inside the guide rails. Not that everyone filed/ground at the same angle without questioning it. Certainly some things are common sense but why 30 ? Because everyone else does it that way?

Edge lasts longer at the expense of twisting the chain between cutters.

Thank You,

 

[The Lorax]

Not all chains are filed at 30º some are 35º I think (Carlton).
The guys over in the milling forums all use 0º for milling as you are cutting across the end grain
I think the way it works is always a trade off, less angle= longer edge holding ability, more angle = faster cutting but perhaps more vibration and less edge holding ability.
Do you use full chisel or semi chisel chain?
I tend to use oregon 21Lp full chisel on my husky 262 but the small saws seem to work better with the semi chisel probably a little less aggressive and therefore needs less power to move through the wood, the side benefit is that it doesn't lose the edge as easy as full chisel.

 

[Zodiac45]

Most chains for limbing felling and bucking come out of the box ground at 30 degrees top plate angle. Older styles had some 35s but modern stuff like Stihl RSC, RMC, Oregon 70 and 30 series come at 30 degrees and that's why people use 30. Milling or ripping chains can be flat (0) too 10-15 degrees. The difference is the smaller the angle, the slower the chain will cut, but will leave a smoother surface. If your not milling then you don't care how smooth it is.
30 degree cuts fast and stays reasonably sharp for a period of time. This is why manufactures use it as a standard.

 

[KsWoodsMan]

Been using semi-chisel chain mostly. 3 reasons, The 2 most important reasons are my sons (12 & 13) cut with me at times. I worry about kickback when they run any of the saws. Lower kickback chains come in semi-chisel. The other reason is semi-chisel seems to hold the edge a tad longer. They don't have that sharp point out there that dulls as easily. When clearing cedars from pasture land the edge doesn't hold up long cutting close to the ground. Any dirty wood just kills chisel type cutters. Mulberry, Oak, Hedge and Black Locust have a course bark that traps dirt and rock dust. Cleaning and clearing fence rows along the roadside seems to be harder on the chains than when working the inside corners.

As my boys get more proficient at cutting and handling the saws they will be ready for more aggressive cutters. But for now I still expect to touch up after each tankfiul if it see one get nosed into the dirt. I let them make dust a little while before touching it back up.

Lorax, I wasn't thinking about Milling but that it a good point. That they are looking for a smoother finish and the fact that they are cutting end grain almost all the way through instead of cross grain. I didn't know Carlton came ground at 35 though , Thanks.

 

[KsWoodsMan]

Thanks for the good info. I found what I was looking for. It WAS NOT found searching for anything closely related to chains or sharpening. Rather it was found looking for threads containing Black Locust. Thanks to HaywireHaywood I was pointed to an ENTIRE forum here on AS that is <u>devoted</u>, I Say! Devoted to chain sharpening. http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=74

Gotta remember to pass a couple of rep points his way for that.