Filing question...

[Typhoon]

Ok, when you guys file, how often do you take down the rakers?? I have to be honest here, I have never done it. I just file the cutters. And when you do take them down, how in the heck do you know how far to take them? Thanks!

 

[John Ellison]

Normal sharpening about every 2to 4 times. You need a guage. Carleton File o Plate is a good one, but there are others.

John

 

[jokers]

Hi Brad,

You get a feel for whether or not you`re pulling into the cut when your chain is sharp that should tell you if your rakers are low enough. Every 3 to 4 filings of 3 strokes each or every grinding is what I do.

Many types of chain have the amount to lower the gauges stamped into them. You may, for example see 25 on the side of the gauge, indicating a .025 clearance. What you set them at is up to you and they are only at that setting for one sharpening. The chain manufacturer can also tell you what the factory spec is, it`s usually on the box. Too many woodticks lower their gauges excessively thinking that they are making their chain more aggressive and faster cutting. Unfortunately they are normally just lowering their performance by sapping so much power out of the head that the saw won`t pull full rpms in the cut. The cut is also rougher and more prone to kickback.

Several types of chain also have specific devices to properly lower the rakers, these usually work better with these chains than the generic tools that bridge several teeth, thus averaging the clearance. For the other types of chain, you can cheaply buy something like the Oregon tool. Jeff S. should be able to hook you up.

Russ

 

[Crofter]

All - in - one guide

Typhoon;

There is a guide that holds both a round file and a flat file and takes the rakers down at the same time. Seems like it might do the trick. Maybe someone who has actually used this animal can chime in here.

Frank

 

[jokers]

Hi Brian,

I agree with your points, the only thing different for the average guy is that I would recommend using a guide. You`ve probably filed thousands of times and have probably developed a deft hand, but for someone less experienced, why not use a simple aid?

Russ

 

[DirtTroll]

Raker height has alot to do with experience fileing and how it effects the cut. I threw my gauge away years ago after experimenting with raker height and the way it feels through cut. I've found that keeping the rakers about 15 thousanths lower than what the gauge calls for works the best for me. When I buy a new chain the first thing I do before I even use it is to take the rakers down about 15 thousanths. Then I just maintain the rakers with every second tank though the saw and the cutters with every tank. I like my chains sharp and I'm kindof retentive that way.

 

[Crofter]

Dirt troll;

I wonder why they put those stupid things there anyway. Maybe a fellow should take them right off once and for all instead of continually filing at them. Lol!

Frank

 

[tony marks]

my comment is that more often than not
people do too much to the rakers especially someone whos just found out about their function.... while .025 is a good starting point ,,its my opinion u better off leaving them alone on new chain..
unless u saw,, is just perceptively cutting poorly ,,and u know the chain is rite other wise..with small power heads
this is especially important.. at .015 my saws will cut fine and hold the rpm up better.,,as the chain speed has less resistence.. just this humble amatures opinion..

 

[Gypo Logger]

Although it is faster to take rakers down freehand without a gauge, I still do it that way, but I keep the file-o-plate on hand just to check where I am at. The raker gauges tend to dull the top plate a bit, so if you use the gauge before filing or grinding then you wont have this problem.
Raker height is 50X more important than sharpness, since most saw injuries can be attributed to rakers that are to low, thus resulting in more chance of kickback.
John

 

[Dennis Cahoon]

Squirrel, just having your rakes close might be good enough for some people, but having a chain that cuts like cutting butter is where I want mine to be. You make more money, its easier on your body, and easier on your equipment. That's just smart thinking not Neanderthal thinking! Just like in racing, your always looking for the total package. Good saws, good chains, and good techique!

 

[ehp]

your top plate and side plate angle has to work with your racker height
it is a whole package deal , you cannot have one with out the other
like Dennis side i would sooner let the saw work instead of me doing all the work

 

[JohnL]

typhoon

raker clearence is measured from the cutting edge of the top plate of the cutter tooth, to the top of the raker, the cutter teeth tops are angled up, so as you sharpen them the cutter edge gets lower, so you file down the raker to maintain the clearence as the the cutter gets lower from sharpening, the raker sets how much dig the tooth gets into the wood. 0.020" 0.025" 0.030" are common, use a depth gauge to file to right amount of clearence for the chain type.

 

[Lewis Brander]

Filling Rakers:

I'm some what new to this site. I've read a lot of threads on the sharpening of different types or styles of chain and have gotten to the point where I can file the round type of chipper chain. using a file guide. I'm not good at free hand filling and probably never will be, for as much as I use a chainsaw. But experimenting with the guide and appling what I've learned and seen here, I've accomplished getting the sharpest chains, I've ever had. Sharper than taking them to a shop to sharpen. Rakers, from what I can see are two fold. 1st they controll the depth of cut the tooth, (thickness of the chip), removes from the kerf. On the average it's .025". 2nd, they help in removing the cut chips from the kerf. If you file the rakers down, you end up with a thicker wood chip in the kerf. If it can't be removed as quickly and smoothly, it may have the tendency to roll around in the kerf and be recut again and again by the cutters or end up between the raker and the kerf, briefly, as it travels the lenght of the kerf in the log.. This to me is not as effecient. especally for smaller powered saws. Reduced raker height may not effect smaller diameter wood as much, but in larger wood it, IMO, would have more of an effect in the long run, reducing the effeciency of the chain design and increasing the amount of pull or drag on the chain, to pull the chips from the kerf, which just puts more wear and tear on the clutch, chain and engine and ends up as wasted energy( chain heating up) and horse power. Just my opion and something to think about. I thank everyone here for their input in sharpening chains, especially Art Martin. Looking forward to trying to learn sharpening techniques for square ground style of chains. Take care. Lewis.

 

[WoodTick007]

Rakers

I was at a buddies farm on Saturday and picked up a Jonsered 70 to cut down some logs for the splitter. The chain was razor sharp but had to be pushed very hard into the wood to cut. I asked him if he ever adjusted the rakers ......his response was RAKERS? What Rakers? I had never experianced anything like it. It was like the cutters were riding on ball bearings. I lowered the rakers with a file and the chain cut without effort.

His next question was, " Do you think all those chains on that nail are still good?". He had about 50 chains that had tons of life in them just wouldn't cut anymore.....hehehe

 

[Lewis Brander]

To Woodtick007

I will have to get a depth gauge or plate to do do my rakers, it would be easier. All I do is keep the chain teeth filed to the same length and to check the rakers, I put a thick steel rule over the row of teeth and check raker height with a feeler gauge and file accordingly. It may not be perfect, within .002", but close enough for me. Lewis.

 

[tony marks]

shoot thats good away as any on chisel chain .. my opinion..just want a tad o daylite showing..

 

[Lewis Brander]

Tony:

Works for me. Thinking about gluing a strip on brass shim stock on the back of the ruler to help protect the saw teeth, especially after sharpening them. Lewis.

 

[Lewis Brander]

To crofter:

Thanks for the PM. Tried to respond and they say your mail box is full. If you would check your PM's and delet a few. Don't know what size the PM box is, but try to keep mine empty. Lewis.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Rocky is nuts.
Work the cutter like mad and don't use a gauge on the raker? It doesn't make sense.
A depth gauge is like $2. Get one, use it. Maybe not every time, but if you're doing maintenance, touch up the rakers.
If you look down the top of your bar, you'll see the difference in height between the cutter and the raker. With experience you'll be able to tell if the rakers are to high. No way can you file them accurately without a gauge. To finish the day or in a pinch, sure guess away. If you want a well cutting chain, use a guage.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hi Mike, well said, but we must take into consideration that squirrel is an insensitive- no it all- jerk. This he proudly notes, so we should be nice to him once in awhile. After all, wasn't he sent here by JPS to infiltrate this saw forum?
Rocky knows that squirrels never know how long their teeth are, but they must chew on nuts to keep their teeth from growing thru to their brains.
Mike, be realistic, when was the last time you saw a squirrel packing around a raker gauge?
John