final pruning cut

[M.P]

when i was at college we learnt to do the final pruning cut at 90 to 70 degrees to the bark branch ridge,not cutting into the branch collar thats the way i do it but some of the lads i work with cut it as a mirror image of the bark branch ridge, leaving a bigger wound and moor surface area exposed? wont this mess up the c.o.d.i.t in the collar and not heal up?? which is right?

 

[Pilsnaman]

I always make the cut parallel to the collar while not cutting the collar. It has been my understanding that this allows the tree to compartmentalize while not leaving a stub to decay.

 

[treeseer]

If you have a collar to aim just outside of, there is no reasone to pay any attention to the branch bark ridge. Tell your friends that the smaller the wound, the better for the tree.

 

[rebelman]

I don't think set rules of 60 or 70 degrees or whatever is a good teaching analogy. It's more important to see the individual collar and cut ourtside of it. Be aware of branch collars as opposed to trunk collars, touch the area with your fingertips if needed. Seems like many arborists cut more for asthetics than biology in instances similar this. My two cents.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Do a Google search using:

"branch collar" illustration

You'll find some good information.

There is a way to use the BBR to lay out the proper collar cut when a collar isn't real obvious. There is a bit of geometry but the angle isn't a set 90 degree, or anything like that.

You have a bit of homework to do When you find the best illustration of how to set the cut would you post the link here?

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

When there is a visable collar, cut as close as you can so you don't hit it at all.
Where it gets tricky, is with co-dominant stems, because there won't typically be a collar. Here's a site that shows how to make proper cuts.

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/Pubs/Garden/07207.html

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Good stuff. From discussions here, I thought that was where I should be cutting. Nice to have a visual.

 

[M.D. Vaden]

In the tree care class I'm teaching at RCC, here's the web page we went to:

http://www.na.fs.fed.us/Spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_prune/prun001.htm

http://www.na.fs.fed.us/Spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_prune/cuts.htm

I noticed that a non-government illustrator was used.

So the images may or may not be copyrighted if anyone chooses to use them. Odds are if they were, a message would be sent regarding it - a mere request.

Federal government material can be an excellent source for extended use of tax dollars, because federal government docs and images can't be copyrighted. It's in the US copyright law.

 

[treesurfer78]

Good to know

Hi all.

Some of those links were just what I was after too. Some of the guys in work have been carrying out pruning operations differently to the way that I was taught.

I very much liked the link that described the differences between pruning normal branches and co-dominant stems.

Cheers

 

[Sirpouralot]

When there is a visable collar, cut as close as you can so you don't hit it at all.
Where it gets tricky, is with co-dominant stems, because there won't typically be a collar. Here's a site that shows how to make proper cuts.

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/Pubs/Garden/07207.html

I don't care for the way they illustrate the correct way to remove a heavy limb. for small limbs that would be ok, but not a good practice to get into when romoving a large limb. The first cut should be made about 18 inches ( a firewood size piece) from the trunk. Cut no 2 should not be made where they illustrate it, or you could lose the saw when the limb jumps off. Instead make cut number 2 even or just slightly closer to trunk and you and the saw will never be pulled when the limb releases. Be careful though not to make cut 2 to far back or your under cut may not work resulting in the limb tearing away instead of snapping off. Different kinds of wood react differently. Some have found that making two small under "side" cuts on willow works better than an under cut. As far as the original topic, try and leave the collar without leaving to much of a stub as has already been stated. No need to be scientific with the correct angle of the bark ridge. Most trees don't mind, and they almost never complain. Sometimes I guess there might be a situation where that could come into play, but it really isn't nothing to worry about.

 

[rebelman]

The first cut should be made about 18 inches ( a firewood size piece) from the trunk.

I don't think that's a good rule, the placement of the first cut should be based on other factors other than a firewood chunk. Such as, position of the climber, obstacles, etc. Pouralot makes some valid points though. And I think Mike Maas is wrong somewhere on his opinions of stubs. I soon as I figure out where I'll let you know.