Fire Dept. Vent Saw

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Firerescue

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I'm trying to set up the ultimate vertical vent saw on our ladder truck. We currently run a MS 460 rescues with 20" bar and standard 3/8 chain. I have a dual port muffler on order and I want to know what people think about switching to .404 chain or stick with the 3/8ths. Also I'm thinking about switching to a 3/8-8 sprocket if we stay with 3/8 chain. Can this saw pull the bigger chain or sprocket through roofing material and what not. Thanks
 
Can this saw pull the bigger chain or sprocket through roofing material and what not. Thanks

I think going to that effort of saving one or two seconds on the cut. (?) makes "why" a bigger question than "can".
Is your FD planning on entering competitions with this saw?
 
Seconds count more in a fire much more than in competitions. But I would put any extra money into carbide chain and a second saw for redundancy. A dulled saw is worthless and a second saw on the roof can save important seconds. The carbide chain won't cut as fast in a tree as a regular chain but will keep cutting much longer in a venting situation. Tune for instant start up, not the fastest cut.
We usually take a gas powered circle saw with a sixteen inch carbide blade to the roof for venting. The 20 inch chain saw is for back up and the off chance we have to cut deeper.
 
We run a husky 372xp with a 20" bar at my dept.. I'd say the carbide is a good bet if you guys do a lot of venting, a standard chain could be shot after one call. Make sure your bar has a hard nose(no sprocket on the tip) and crank that oiler up-
 
Seconds count more in a fire much more than in competitions. But I would put any extra money into carbide chain and a second saw for redundancy. A dulled saw is worthless and a second saw on the roof can save important seconds. The carbide chain won't cut as fast in a tree as a regular chain but will keep cutting much longer in a venting situation. Tune for instant start up, not the fastest cut.
We usually take a gas powered circle saw with a sixteen inch carbide blade to the roof for venting. The 20 inch chain saw is for back up and the off chance we have to cut deeper.

One of my colleagues was working in a tree when a fire started in an adjacent apartment building (roofing tar). He comment was although the firefighters moved in measured pace, there was nothing done until the truck was properly placed, wheels chocked, area coned/taped out. There was no running. What I'm saying is "Seconds count" is a marketing myth put out by the fire department to gain additional funding when they go into municipal budget meetings.
 
I'm trying to set up the ultimate vertical vent saw on our ladder truck. We currently run a MS 460 rescues with 20" bar and standard 3/8 chain. I have a dual port muffler on order and I want to know what people think about switching to .404 chain or stick with the 3/8ths. Also I'm thinking about switching to a 3/8-8 sprocket if we stay with 3/8 chain. Can this saw pull the bigger chain or sprocket through roofing material and what not. Thanks
On the department I work for (Toronto) we use the Sthil Rescue saw. http://en.stihl.ca/STIHL-Products/C...ers/Rescue-chain-saw/2238-1569/MS-461-RS.aspx
Basically, its a 460 with a depth guage and carbide chain. It works pretty good on shingled roofs and will cut thin flat corregated steel roofing (not ideal), but plan on replacing the chain after that. I perfer the carbide wheel on a gas cir saw for steel corregated.
Carbide chain definately last longer on shingled roofs than regular chain, but most often requires replacing after. They are expen$ive. For clean wood (trees) we have a couple of chainsaws on each squad (heavy rescue).
 
One of my colleagues was working in a tree when a fire started in an adjacent apartment building (roofing tar). He comment was although the firefighters moved in measured pace, there was nothing done until the truck was properly placed, wheels chocked, area coned/taped out. There was no running. What I'm saying is "Seconds count" is a marketing myth put out by the fire department to gain additional funding when they go into municipal budget meetings.
Some times we run, mostly we just walk fast, but the hose pulling, water hook-up, ladder raising, and tool gathering is mostly done at the same time as the chocking and blocking off is being taken care of. The water supply hose is often deployed when the pumper drives by the hydrant. When the first piece of equipment arrives with just a couple of firefighters on board getting the truck set has to be done first.
A lot of practice goes into everyone knowing exactly what to do and in what order.
 
We use the VentMaster which is a rebranded Husky 576xp w/ 20 inch hard nose .404 bar, raptor or bullet chain, and a case/ muffler guard. We have 10 trucks and 1 heavy rescue, every unit carries a vent chainsaw, 3 cut-off saws, and one "wood" chainsaw. The vent masters get pretty beat up. We do a lot of vertical vent cuts and use them to cut gable ends on Garden apartments. We usually take the VentMaster and one cutoff saw to the roof (based on building construction). Be prepared for a lot of maintenance for the saws FD personnel are hard on equipment and saws tend to see the worst environments. An air filter usually only lasts one good fire, we carry multiple spares on the trucks and extra chains. Not sure if your aware of the difference between the Stihl Duro carbide chain and the stihl duro rescue chain ( the same as the bullet and raptor chain in theory). The rescue chains use a larger Brazed piece of carbide and dual cutters to support the carbide on both sides, compared to the stihl duro carbide that you see in most saw shops.
Yes you can cut light gauge metal, like garage doors, with the rescue chains BUT it will chip the cutters and a&e the saw chain out of service, price of doing business with these saws. You can end up having $1,000 in just chains for one saw. You also have to find someone willing to sharpen or repair the chains, they require diamond wheels. We actually ship our chains across the country from Florida to California to have them sharpened or repaired.
I recommend an in service saw class and maintenance class, the amount if poor maintenance and backyard saw "truth" that you will see and hear is astounding.
 
leave it stock, easy to crank and easy to set down and leave running for a sec without fouling the plug and then practise using an axe once in a while. I am not that much slower cutting a 2x4 vent hole in 1/2"ply with a propery sharpened axe than using a chain saw/ the saw is admitedly easier and less work. The saw, pole and set of irons are standard fairs for the truck crew performing vent.
 
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