gorman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have a bunch of jobs lined up for my first air knifing day next week. I am very open to tips and suggestions from you guys that have exp in this.
First air knife day
- Thread starter gorman
- Start date
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Lots of stuff to cover.
1. safety clip all connections.
2. face mask
3. tarps or screens to contain dust and flying objects.
4. adequate soil moisture prior to work
5. dust mask
6. lots of soap and water+ q-tips for the end of the day.
7.ear plugs
8. get someone else on your crew to do it.
1. safety clip all connections.
2. face mask
3. tarps or screens to contain dust and flying objects.
4. adequate soil moisture prior to work
5. dust mask
6. lots of soap and water+ q-tips for the end of the day.
7.ear plugs
8. get someone else on your crew to do it.
gorman
Addicted to ArboristSite
What do you recommend for cutting girdling roots? I've used chisels in the past but this tow behind compressor is on the clock so I want to be as speedy as I can about it. I've seen guys use old chainsaws and sawzalls on the youtube vids. I have an old 338, should I bring a sawzall too?
gorman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have the x-lt model with 50 feet of hose and some extra couplings. And yes, I'm renting a compressor. The rental places are jamming me up over here since they all upped their compressor rates by 50 percent in the last couple months.
I have surprisingly sold 100% of all the root collar excavations I have pitched. That's pretty much all I can do with the x-lt, aside from decompacting some of the root system near the root flare. No rental place in my state offers the 400cfm tow behinds so I'm somewhat limited.
If you are blowing excess mulch and cutting girdling roots, a pair of hand pruners, chisel, sawzall etc. will be fine. I've used everything. I found old handsaw blades and pole saw blades work well too. How large are the trees and how many do you have? If speed is of the essence, have one person blowing and one person cutting roots. I would not recommend a chainsaw. If you are cutting roots that large, best leave them alone.
In some circumstances, I've found that having the air spade blow the material in the air and then have your blower blow it out of the way works well.
That sucker can get hot, so make sure you are using decent gloves.
More hose the better (isn't that way with everything in life?).
If you are worried about time with the compressor, have a second person on your crew do the root pruning, raking and cleanup. If you set up a couple of sheets of plywood vertically, you will contain the material somewhat making it easier to cleanup. I usually just prop them up with a shovel or pitch fork.
That sucker can get hot, so make sure you are using decent gloves.
More hose the better (isn't that way with everything in life?).
If you are worried about time with the compressor, have a second person on your crew do the root pruning, raking and cleanup. If you set up a couple of sheets of plywood vertically, you will contain the material somewhat making it easier to cleanup. I usually just prop them up with a shovel or pitch fork.
i use the 375 cfm compressor; $215/day (gag) for my x-hfa which has the water attachment--love it!
The ANSI A300 Part 8 is pretty skimpy with info, as A300 generally is:
84.4 Selective root pruning – girdling roots
84.4.1 Roots that encircle or girdle the trunk or a buttress root should be considered for redirecting or pruning.
84.4.2 Girdling roots should be exposed before pruning cuts are planned or made.
84.4.3 Retention of encircling or girdling roots that are providing more benefit than damage shall be considered.
84.4.4 The trunk and buttress roots shall not be damaged beyond the scope of the work.
84.4.5 If one or more large girdling root is present, progressive root pruning over a specified time period should be considered.
84.4.6 Root pruning tools shall include, but are not limited to: hand saws; lopping shears; chisels; hand shears; chain saws; reciprocating saws; and, circular saws.
This from the attached is 7 years old but still current imho. Sorry zale but per fig 6, chainsaws are ok to use. I prefer loppers as the first tool to use..sawzall ok but i don't like em.
Treating Defects
Related to
Stem-girdling
Roots
The first step in an RCX to
clear away the misplaced
mulch and soil from the
trunk flare so the sides of the
buttress roots are exposed.
Surplus soil should be set
aside for future use. Smaller
roots growing upward and
inward should be snipped
out of the way to find the
flare. If young roots are
found growing out of the
stem before the flare is
found, the arborist is faced
with a difficult decision. These adventitious roots were formed from stem tissue in response to
darkness and moisture. If they are large or numerous, they may be forming a secondary support
system for the tree. Some species such as Fraxinus pennsylvanica and Taxus baccata have
demonstrated the capacity to form secondary root systems. Asurvey of observations might help
guide future work in this area.
Conks, the fruiting bodies of fungus, can indicate wood decay around stem-girdling roots.
“…diseased trees have sometimes been saved by removing soil from around the root buttresses
and root collar. The pathogen ceases growth in tissues thus exposed” (Sinclair 2005). In all
these cases, dead tissue should be removed so the damage can be assessed and contained.
“…include a round-edged chisel in your tool kit…It is possible to cut out cankers on trees”
(Shigo 1986b). If the dead areas are extensive, strength loss should be assessed and removing or (this cya wording forced on me--it never happens)
reducing the tree considered. After all the soil that contacts the infected stem and roots is removed,
beneficial microbes such as Trichoderma and Gliocladium can be inoculated into the surrounding
soil and outcompete the decay fungi that are still and always present (Schwarze 2008).
If SGR’s are found, the earth is cleared away from them as much as is practical. “Girdling
roots should be cut where they attach to the trunk or to another root and then again beyond the
point of the girdle” (Costello
2003). Making clean cuts at the
origins promotes wound closure.
Loppers or secateurs work well
for cuts where the entire target
area is exposed, while a well-balanced
chainsaw can make
“plunge cuts” cleanly, especially
with a small-width carving bar.
Hammer and chisels are often
needed to finish the work, with
minimal damage outside the
scope of work (Figure 6).
If the root diameter is over
10% of the stem diameter and
girdles less than 10% of the stem
Severing Subterranean Stranglers: A Protocol for Managing Stem-Girdling Roots 5
Figure 5. Directional Pruning: The cut was made back to the lateral that
grows radially, removing most of the stem-girdling portion.
Figure 6. A chainsaw with a narrow bar can rapidly “plunge cut”
girdling roots. Following standard safety techniques, the operator
can make the cut gradually. Sensing the root’s release, the operator
can pull back in time to avoid damaging stem tissue.
before growing away, it may be best to leave it alone, depending on tree vitality and other factors.
On roots that are overgrown by stem tissue, several cuts and gentle prying can free the
root. If it does not move, sever both ends and chisel off as much of it as possible so it will be
pushed off as the trunk and buttress roots expand. It is rare for root tissue to graft to stem tissue,
but more common for roots to graft to other roots. Therefore, only those root-girdling roots
that constrain buttress roots severely are pruned.
The ANSI A300 Part 8 is pretty skimpy with info, as A300 generally is:
84.4 Selective root pruning – girdling roots
84.4.1 Roots that encircle or girdle the trunk or a buttress root should be considered for redirecting or pruning.
84.4.2 Girdling roots should be exposed before pruning cuts are planned or made.
84.4.3 Retention of encircling or girdling roots that are providing more benefit than damage shall be considered.
84.4.4 The trunk and buttress roots shall not be damaged beyond the scope of the work.
84.4.5 If one or more large girdling root is present, progressive root pruning over a specified time period should be considered.
84.4.6 Root pruning tools shall include, but are not limited to: hand saws; lopping shears; chisels; hand shears; chain saws; reciprocating saws; and, circular saws.
This from the attached is 7 years old but still current imho. Sorry zale but per fig 6, chainsaws are ok to use. I prefer loppers as the first tool to use..sawzall ok but i don't like em.
Treating Defects
Related to
Stem-girdling
Roots
The first step in an RCX to
clear away the misplaced
mulch and soil from the
trunk flare so the sides of the
buttress roots are exposed.
Surplus soil should be set
aside for future use. Smaller
roots growing upward and
inward should be snipped
out of the way to find the
flare. If young roots are
found growing out of the
stem before the flare is
found, the arborist is faced
with a difficult decision. These adventitious roots were formed from stem tissue in response to
darkness and moisture. If they are large or numerous, they may be forming a secondary support
system for the tree. Some species such as Fraxinus pennsylvanica and Taxus baccata have
demonstrated the capacity to form secondary root systems. Asurvey of observations might help
guide future work in this area.
Conks, the fruiting bodies of fungus, can indicate wood decay around stem-girdling roots.
“…diseased trees have sometimes been saved by removing soil from around the root buttresses
and root collar. The pathogen ceases growth in tissues thus exposed” (Sinclair 2005). In all
these cases, dead tissue should be removed so the damage can be assessed and contained.
“…include a round-edged chisel in your tool kit…It is possible to cut out cankers on trees”
(Shigo 1986b). If the dead areas are extensive, strength loss should be assessed and removing or (this cya wording forced on me--it never happens)
reducing the tree considered. After all the soil that contacts the infected stem and roots is removed,
beneficial microbes such as Trichoderma and Gliocladium can be inoculated into the surrounding
soil and outcompete the decay fungi that are still and always present (Schwarze 2008).
If SGR’s are found, the earth is cleared away from them as much as is practical. “Girdling
roots should be cut where they attach to the trunk or to another root and then again beyond the
point of the girdle” (Costello
2003). Making clean cuts at the
origins promotes wound closure.
Loppers or secateurs work well
for cuts where the entire target
area is exposed, while a well-balanced
chainsaw can make
“plunge cuts” cleanly, especially
with a small-width carving bar.
Hammer and chisels are often
needed to finish the work, with
minimal damage outside the
scope of work (Figure 6).
If the root diameter is over
10% of the stem diameter and
girdles less than 10% of the stem
Severing Subterranean Stranglers: A Protocol for Managing Stem-Girdling Roots 5
Figure 5. Directional Pruning: The cut was made back to the lateral that
grows radially, removing most of the stem-girdling portion.
Figure 6. A chainsaw with a narrow bar can rapidly “plunge cut”
girdling roots. Following standard safety techniques, the operator
can make the cut gradually. Sensing the root’s release, the operator
can pull back in time to avoid damaging stem tissue.
before growing away, it may be best to leave it alone, depending on tree vitality and other factors.
On roots that are overgrown by stem tissue, several cuts and gentle prying can free the
root. If it does not move, sever both ends and chisel off as much of it as possible so it will be
pushed off as the trunk and buttress roots expand. It is rare for root tissue to graft to stem tissue,
but more common for roots to graft to other roots. Therefore, only those root-girdling roots
that constrain buttress roots severely are pruned.
Treeseer- how often have you used a chainsaw to cut girdling roots?
gorman
Addicted to ArboristSite
The only tree with any girth is a 28"dbh American beech. It goes into the ground like a nail so I'm expecting some girdling roots. Considering the dbh, what do you think the largest diameter girdling root I would get away with cutting?
In addition to the suggested cutting tools, a Corona root pruning saw is a great little tool. Most of the time, I am using that and a decent (but not too expensive!) pair of bypass pruners. I recently bought a 18V Milwaukee "Hackzall" which is similar to a Sawzall, but slightly less smaller and less aggressive. I like that a lot. Buy a few extra blades for the reciprocating saw...you will go through them. Also, bring both batteries and a charger if you are using cordless. I have thought about a chainsaw...but this really fits the need better.
Chisels (and a mallet) are essential when you have to get a root out of the tree. But you don't need to get it all out if it is really in there and you can't do it without damaging the bark. Yes, it is best to have it all out, but sometimes that is not possible. Getting most out without damaging the bark of the tree and leaving it cut at both ends means it will be pushed out soon. Use chisels that are solid metal (usually with a plastic handle molded around the metal), not a metal blade inserted into a plastic handle...they won't last.
You can do a lot of decompaction with a 185-210 CFM compressor if there is some moisture in the soil. If it is dry, forget about it (with any compressor).
I think it is fun work, and I know I am doing a ton of good for trees when the roots are just starting to choke...so enjoy it.
Chisels (and a mallet) are essential when you have to get a root out of the tree. But you don't need to get it all out if it is really in there and you can't do it without damaging the bark. Yes, it is best to have it all out, but sometimes that is not possible. Getting most out without damaging the bark of the tree and leaving it cut at both ends means it will be pushed out soon. Use chisels that are solid metal (usually with a plastic handle molded around the metal), not a metal blade inserted into a plastic handle...they won't last.
You can do a lot of decompaction with a 185-210 CFM compressor if there is some moisture in the soil. If it is dry, forget about it (with any compressor).
I think it is fun work, and I know I am doing a ton of good for trees when the roots are just starting to choke...so enjoy it.
Honestly...I don't expect any girdling roots on that tree. My suspicion was that it was buried during some excavation. Can you remove enough soil around the tree to expose the original root flare and return a significant portion of the area to original grade? That may be a loader (I cringe about driving a loader over areas where we already have soil issues) then area-wide decompaction with the AirKnife followed by a large mulch bed.
Its difficult to say w/o pictures. Each tree is different. Sorry for the b/s answer. When I have done this work, I try not to impact more than 30% of the root system. Meaning if I have 3 girdling roots, I'll take one and come back the following season to remove the others. This is just my own experience.
"how often have you used a chainsaw to cut girdling roots?" ggodgawd you want a number? Dozens, easily. Maybe not hundreds. Note that i used a carving bar, narrow chain, later on. but with a 200t yes, dozens. (the stihl dealers ran and hid when i told them) No big deal; like any plunge cut, with a thenthitive trigger finger..feel the tissues pull a[partr, searate slowly, slow down, wait, the=n when the final 'pop' of seaparation takes place you pull the bar back out of the kerf, satisfied that the objective is met, the load is released...
Arboricultrure is so sexy annit???.In 2006 attached I shied away and thought 20%, hold back...then i talked with Dave Leonard who said he never held back, WOOHAH,and never lost a tree by doing it right the first time. But I killed a stone [pine in an arboretum by overcutting (which did not enhance my popularity there), so you gotta look for a balance.
July is not an ideal time; I would guess maybe 30-40% max now, but in sept-oct maybe 50-60%....but hey the roots are out of view so guess as best as you can...but a buried 28" beech...how long has it been buried? etc.? ATH has the right idea; excavate a narrow wedge by hand during assessment to get an idea. You did bid this by the hour, right???
wooohah...wut, the bottle's empty?
Arboricultrure is so sexy annit???.In 2006 attached I shied away and thought 20%, hold back...then i talked with Dave Leonard who said he never held back, WOOHAH,and never lost a tree by doing it right the first time. But I killed a stone [pine in an arboretum by overcutting (which did not enhance my popularity there), so you gotta look for a balance.
July is not an ideal time; I would guess maybe 30-40% max now, but in sept-oct maybe 50-60%....but hey the roots are out of view so guess as best as you can...but a buried 28" beech...how long has it been buried? etc.? ATH has the right idea; excavate a narrow wedge by hand during assessment to get an idea. You did bid this by the hour, right???
wooohah...wut, the bottle's empty?
gorman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks everybody. I'll take some pics.
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