Sears D44 Lightweight Ring Replacement Question

[wildwes]

I am in the process of replacing the rings on an old Sears D44 Lightweight that I have. That part is pretty straightforward. When I pulled the cover off of the crankcase and removed the connecting rod cap, all of the tiny, loose needle bearings fell out. I have already ordered a new set of needle bearings, that come on a strip, like this:



Has anyone ever installed any of these, and if so, can you tell me how in the heck they are installed? I am assuming whatever the black stuff is that holds them together dissolves somehow? I don't know how in the world one would put the needles in place with heavy grease the way you normally would inside of a crankcase like that. I can put up a picture of the crank/crankcase and the rod if it'll help.

 

[cbfarmall]

Homelite said to wrap that strip around the journal and cover with grease. The best way is to clean all the needles with brake cleaner and stick them to the upper and lower rod halves with grease. I'm sure there were special tool hold the rod cap but a good way nowadays is to use a heavy tie wrap under the crank and sort of roll the lower cap in place. The grease will hold the needles in place as long as you don't jostle it too much. Lastly, make sure cap is properly indexed to the rod, it only matches one way and make sure you install the rod the same direction as you took it out.

Picture of my IEL JC for reference.

 

[wildwes]

Homelite said to wrap that strip around the journal and cover with grease. The best way is to clean all the needles with brake cleaner and stick them to the upper and lower rod halves with grease. I'm sure there were special tool hold the rod cap but a good way nowadays is to use a heavy tie wrap under the crank and sort of roll the lower cap in place. The grease will hold the needles in place as long as you don't jostle it too much. Lastly, make sure cap is properly indexed to the rod, it only matches one way and make sure you install the rod the same direction as you took it out.

Picture of my IEL JC for reference.

Thanks for the info. On my sears saw, it is a little different. The engine has a cover plate, and the rod cap is removed. There is a removable cylinder head, and the piston and rod come out the top, like a 4 cylinder normally does. That's the main reason I am concerned with having to stick the needles to the rod before installation, as the rod and piston goes in as an assembly, with rings already on the piston. It doesn't have a removable jug.

I'm sure it's going to be a lot of fun trying to put it back together however I have to do it.

 

[cbfarmall]

I see, it's more like a Mcculloch. Easiest is probably to push the piston all the way down the bore till the rod is in the open at the bottom and then stick the needles to the journals.

 

[cbfarmall]

I don't know if it's possible but don't accidentally get the rings hung up in a port or below the bore.

 

[wildwes]

I see, it's more like a Mcculloch. Easiest is probably to push the piston all the way down the bore till the rod is in the open at the bottom and then stick the needles to the journals.

That's what I guess I'm going to have to do, I'm sure it'll be a blast.

I don't know if it's possible but don't accidentally get the rings hung up in a port or below the bore.

I don't believe I can get them hung in the port, as the ports are small-ish holes, rather than being one large port like newer saws. It might be possible to get one hung below the bore- I don't think I can push the piston down far enough to do so, but I don't want to find out the hard way that I was wrong.