First attempt ...alaskan milling

[Boon]

Had a go today at the first of a few Radiata logs in preparation for Fridays job.

There was a big lump on either end which I cut down to size and then thought I had it all worked out, only to measure the far end that was not yet fixed down to discover the guide was higher from the center than the other end....crud!

So back to the start and got both ends the same height from center and off I went....slowly

The 660 cut ok but could have been faster - suppose one can never have enough pace when cutting. Thinking maybe to invest in an 880 or convert a big lawn mower motor.

Used a full chisel standard today, want to keep the skip nice and fresh for the Friday job, maybe that one will go a little faster.

2 inch slabs - last pic is the cuts from the log...hope I did that right

hard work...looks easy but at the end of the day you know you've been at it!

A big thank you to every one who gave advice in the 'what to charge thread'. :msp_smile:

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[BobL]

Had a go today at the first of a few Radiata logs in preparation for Fridays job.

There was a big lump on either end which I cut down to size and then thought I had it all worked out, only to measure the far end that was not yet fixed down to discover the guide was higher from the center than the other end....crud!

So back to the start and got both ends the same height from center and off I went....slowly

The 660 cut ok but could have been faster - suppose one can never have enough pace when cutting. Thinking maybe to invest in an 880 or convert a big lawn mower motor.

Used a full chisel standard today, want to keep the skip nice and fresh for the Friday job, maybe that one will go a little faster.

It sounds like you have experienced that CSMing is slow.

In that size log or smaller, if you have sharpened the chain correctly, skip won't make any difference, 880 or big mower motor won't make much difference. When using a chain the limitation is chain speed and unless the chain is spun faster then it won't cut any faster. You can get faster cutting speed with a chain using a bigger motor by drastically dropping the rakers but then you might not be able to use those chains on larger logs and you will get a rougher finish.

It's a slow business which is why folks end up going for a Bandsaw or swing mill.

 

[Stu in Tokyo]

Yep hard work, but it does work, eventually

One thing that I found a big leap was using Mr. Gravity to help, there is a big difference when you have the long on the starting end a few feet higher off the ground than the finishing end, pushing a CSM along a level surface is work, pushing it uphill, even slightly is not what you want to be doing, pushing a CSM downhill is about as good as it is going to get.

With a very simple tripod and a basic chain winch you can lift one end of a log fairly easily, then put a notched support under it, trust me, you will notice the difference in the amount of grunt you have to put into each cut.

 

[flashhole]

Thanks for sharing the pics. I'm about two weeks away from my first milling too. How long are the bars on your mill and how big was that log? I'll be using a Husky 394 so same class of saw. I bought the 30" mill, it will handle any of the trees I have for now.

 

[BobL]

. . . , pushing a CSM downhill is about as good as it is going to get.

If all of your planets align you don't even have to push.
(Sorry to drag this one out again)

 

[Boon]

Thanks for sharing the pics. I'm about two weeks away from my first milling too. How long are the bars on your mill and how big was that log? I'll be using a Husky 394 so same class of saw. I bought the 30" mill, it will handle any of the trees I have for now.

I got a 42 inch bar because several inches are lost with the sprocket and attaching the saw, also in my area there are many Radiata pines...biguns. Don't think the saw will handle the full length in a cut, today was the most would like to see it chew through.

Mid section the logs about foot and a half.

Was cutting on the ground and to the end of the log there was obstruction beneath the exhaust so the gases were not escaping......am still eating it now. Other than sore knees that's another as the cuts come closer to the ground. Dust mask was no help and suppose a gas mask would be too uncomfortable

That tripod looks good bout now.

Plenty of wedges came in handy also.

All the best with your upcoming milling, it is a good experience to see what is beneath all that bark and the endless possibilities for use if you can pull yourself away from the saw!

Will be interested to see your first cuts...a posting??

 

[Boon]

If all of your planets align you don't even have to push.
(Sorry to drag this one out again)

Thank you for the picture, as always an inspiration for us novices.

 

[Boon]

Yep hard work, but it does work, eventually

One thing that I found a big leap was using Mr. Gravity to help, there is a big difference when you have the long on the starting end a few feet higher off the ground than the finishing end, pushing a CSM along a level surface is work, pushing it uphill, even slightly is not what you want to be doing, pushing a CSM downhill is about as good as it is going to get.

With a very simple tripod and a basic chain winch you can lift one end of a log fairly easily, then put a notched support under it, trust me, you will notice the difference in the amount of grunt you have to put into each cut.

Cool idea, was thinking how to use my enclosed box trailer to lift them with my chain block today, or a swing but that is too big and clumsy. After seeing this no need now.

Can you tell me can it be dissembled?

How does it attach at the top?

 

[BobL]

Was cutting on the ground and to the end of the log there was obstruction beneath the exhaust so the gases were not escaping......am still eating it now. Other than sore knees that's another as the cuts come closer to the ground. Dust mask was no help and suppose a gas mask would be too uncomfortable

That's a classic problem with saw that exhaust towards the front of the log. You need to be very careful with getting exhaust obstruction as well as cooling air obstruction as this is a common way to cook a saw.

As Stu says getting the log up off the ground is real good for your back and knees.
If you already have a kangaroo jack look at my log lifter for another way to lift logs.

The other thing is I'll bet you are feeling is sore shoulders and arms - this comes about by pushing with your arms apart. A remote throttle with a lock, and handles higher up on the mill will fix this immediately. A remote throttle can be as fancy as one of mine or 820s, or a simple cable tie that can be slipped up over the throttle. Having more than one handle is really useful as it allows you to vary where you put your hands which helps reduce soreness.

The more upright a stance the better. I stand up to the mill and lean on the saw more with with thighs and knees than my arms. This leaves my arms free to drive in wedges, time cuts and, adjust the remote aux oiler flow control.

 

[Stu in Tokyo]

Cool idea, was thinking how to use my enclosed box trailer to lift them with my chain block today, or a swing but that is too big and clumsy. After seeing this no need now.

Can you tell me can it be dissembled?

How does it attach at the top?

This tripod is not mine, but it's where I got the idea from.

Mine had three U-shaped pieces of metal welded onto a steel plate, and each U shaped bracket goes around the end of the pipe, and has a hole drilled in it, with a hole in the end of the pipe too, and then a long bolt goes through them holding the pipe in the U shaped bracket. Sorry I don't have mine anymore I lent it to a buddy a LONG time ago and I think he still has it :confused2:

I also had pads on the bottoms of my tripod legs, as I mostly work in yards that have had houses demolished, the ground is usually soft.

Cheers!

PS BobL, I LOVE that picture, says it all!

 

[Boon]

This tripod is not mine, but it's where I got the idea from.

Mine had three U-shaped pieces of metal welded onto a steel plate, and each U shaped bracket goes around the end of the pipe, and has a hole drilled in it, with a hole in the end of the pipe too, and then a long bolt goes through them holding the pipe in the U shaped bracket. Sorry I don't have mine anymore I lent it to a buddy a LONG time ago and I think he still has it :confused2:

I also had pads on the bottoms of my tripod legs, as I mostly work in yards that have had houses demolished, the ground is usually soft.

Cheers!

PS BobL, I LOVE that picture, says it all!

Thanks...all good, got the idea of how to put one together now. Big help

 

[Boon]

That's a classic problem with saw that exhaust towards the front of the log. You need to be very careful with getting exhaust obstruction as well as cooling air obstruction as this is a common way to cook a saw.

As Stu says getting the log up off the ground is real good for your back and knees.
If you already have a kangaroo jack look at my log lifter for another way to lift logs.

The other thing is I'll bet you are feeling is sore shoulders and arms - this comes about by pushing with your arms apart. A remote throttle with a lock, and handles higher up on the mill will fix this immediately. A remote throttle can be as fancy as one of mine or 820s, or a simple cable tie that can be slipped up over the throttle. Having more than one handle is really useful as it allows you to vary where you put your hands which helps reduce soreness.

The more upright a stance the better. I stand up to the mill and lean on the saw more with with thighs and knees than my arms. This leaves my arms free to drive in wedges, time cuts and, adjust the remote aux oiler flow control.

Cable tie sounds good........ Fridays job definitely on an incline where possible

Am hoping to finish the last cut/s today so will try out some of your pointers. Was thinking now the log is lighter will move it clear of the obstruction but this may interfere with the straightness of the cut??

Also like you suggested to use the straight edge on all of your cuts. Tried yesterday one with the edge and another without......the edge is good!!! Seems the wetness of the log, rough surface ect make it drag & harder, was actually thinking the saw was blunt but not the case just have to push more without the straight edge.

Am considering to put shade cloth on the bottom of the mill rail to help it slide better or PET bottle material.

 

[mtngun]

Am considering to put shade cloth on the bottom of the mill rail to help it slide better or PET bottle material.

UHMW tape works great.

 

[flashhole]

Uhmw?

 

[BobL]

Uhmw?

It should be UHMWPE

Ultra High Molecular Weight polyethylene , a hard plastic commonly used in the food and mining industry. One of my brothers is a mining engineer and he use to buy it by the ton for use on lining of pipeline bends. The ore is moved around in pipes as a slurry and it knocks the stuffing out of the pipe bends.

 

[PhilB]

Do a search for UHMW tape in woodworking supply houses. It has an adhesive backing. Not all suppliers list it. Search several suppliers.

Phil

 

[abbott295]

Curiously enough, a bi-pod and a come-along can be used to lift logs and things also. I'm not quite sure how it works, but it does. When I was still at home, many years ago, we used three of them to take down wire corncribs and put them back up. Mine is made from the V from the top of an old (heavy-duty) swing set and two pipe legs that slip inside so it comes apart easily too.

abbott295 (picture impaired)

 

[Boon]

Curiously enough, a bi-pod and a come-along can be used to lift logs and things also. I'm not quite sure how it works, but it does. When I was still at home, many years ago, we used three of them to take down wire corncribs and put them back up. Mine is made from the V from the top of an old (heavy-duty) swing set and two pipe legs that slip inside so it comes apart easily too.

abbott295 (picture impaired)

cool, any suggestions to what height to make it?

Thanks for the resource search suggestion Phil, was wondering where to find it

 

[flashhole]

I've got a 6' farm jack, just trying to figure out how to put it to proper use in the logs.

 

[BobL]

I've got a 6' farm jack, just trying to figure out how to put it to proper use in the logs.

Look in my signature under "log lifterII"