First build 365 special to 372 XPW

Rugged made
Wesspur
Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
V

vienster

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2018
Messages
76
Reaction score
18
Location
UNKNOWN
This is my fist post here. This site seems to be the most valuable resource for info on saws online so I figured i'd join.

I got a 365 special (non x torque) from work that is an older model it had a broken piston ring that was embedded in the piston and part went out the exhaust. I just want to make sure i'm not missing anything.

I spent a sickening amount of money in the last week and I don't want anything to go wrong. I should've purchased new but the experience is worth the cost. I'm confident now I can fix anything on a chainsaw should a problem arise. It is also enjoyable to work on compared to cars or railroad equipment. I've dealt with subpar saws and issues throughout my life and I want a saw to last me for many years.

I was just going to purchase a chinese engine and call it day but i'm far from that. I never imagined the parts total i'm at would've added up so fast. I also just ran into UNIVENT vs EHP and I guess since mine is an older model it's an EHP but i'm not certain. If I decoded the serial number right it's an '02.


Pretty much everything except the caber rings are oem. I purchased a 51.4 mm dual ring piston kit, new crank with clutch, bearings and seal bushing, caber rings, crank seals, case gasket, cylinder base gasket, new oiler hose and seal for oil line, wrist pin bearing, new walbro carb, muffler & heat shield, decomp valve, filter and vent tube, impulse hose, fuel hose & filter, clutch drum bearing, bar studs & nuts.

As far as tools mity vac pump w/adapters, digital tach, piston stop tool, carb tool, ring compressor and permatex high temp thread sealant for the oil pump mounting bolts.
 
vienster said:
This is my fist post here. This site seems to be the most valuable resource for info on saws online so I figured i'd join.

I got a 365 special (non x torque) from work that is an older model it had a broken piston ring that was embedded in the piston and part went out the exhaust. I just want to make sure i'm not missing anything.

I spent a sickening amount of money in the last week and I don't want anything to go wrong. I should've purchased new but the experience is worth the cost. I'm confident now I can fix anything on a chainsaw should a problem arise. It is also enjoyable to work on compared to cars or railroad equipment. I've dealt with subpar saws and issues throughout my life and I want a saw to last me for many years.

I was just going to purchase a chinese engine and call it day but i'm far from that. I never imagined the parts total i'm at would've added up so fast. I also just ran into UNIVENT vs EHP and I guess since mine is an older model it's an EHP but i'm not certain. If I decoded the serial number right it's an '02.


Pretty much everything except the caber rings are oem. I purchased a 51.4 mm dual ring piston kit, new crank with clutch, bearings and seal bushing, caber rings, crank seals, case gasket, cylinder base gasket, new oiler hose and seal for oil line, wrist pin bearing, new walbro carb, muffler & heat shield, decomp valve, filter and vent tube, impulse hose, fuel hose & filter, clutch drum bearing, bar studs & nuts.

As far as tools mity vac pump w/adapters, digital tach, piston stop tool, carb tool, ring compressor and permatex high temp thread sealant for the oil pump mounting bolts.
Click to expand...
You didn't mention, but set of good T handle screw drivers, Torx etc. I got Wihi but others can add suggestions.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
 
I'm still quite a bit under what the local place wanted for a new 372xp, not including tools. I did get everything for the cheapest price I could find it, mostly on ebay. I'm mostly trying to convince myself it was a good learning experience but it wasn't a real challenge. Compared to one machine I maintain at work this is extremely simple work. I do finally understand the hobby aspect of chainsaws now it is the most enjoyable engine/machine I worked on in years.

I do have a great selection of tools and long hex and torx sockets, air tools, etc...


I only cut two cords of wood a year, what sparked the interest in a real saw was seeing someone at work with an ms362 still being able to cut easily after the saw was dull. We got nailed with two 12" heavy wet snow storms and we weren't well prepared. I'm fairly certain i'm not going to use this at work, but I may on occasion to run it.

I was dead set on stihl but I got the saw for free. I wasn't going to replace the crank but it was only $200 for the crank/bearings/clutch & oil seal bushing. I can also sell the old one for $40 on ebay if I want.
 
Does anyone have any idea why there was a very thin o ring included in the oem crankshaft kit? The kit included bearings, clutch, crank seal bushing and the crank. It will fit over the bushing.
 
Thank you it must've disintegrated on the original. I didn't think it would go directly on the crank.

I stumbled across a vacuum/pressure pump kit on ebay and it seemed like a good deal. I like getting tools in blow molded cases nowadays and it came with one. If anyone is in need of one they are only thirty dollars, the pump is a die cast aluminum Mity Vac made in the USA. There are spare o rings and bunch of gas mask adapters.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SAFETY-TEC...Gv:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!05743!US!-1:rk:1:pf:0
 
vienster said:
Thank you it must've disintegrated on the original. I didn't think it would go directly on the crank.

I stumbled across a vacuum/pressure pump kit on ebay and it seemed like a good deal. I like getting tools in blow molded cases nowadays and it came with one. If anyone is in need of one they are only thirty dollars, the pump is a die cast aluminum Mity Vac made in the USA. There are spare o rings and bunch of gas mask adapters.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SAFETY-TEC...Gv:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!05743!US!-1:rk:1:pf:0
Click to expand...
It fits on pto crank side. Put some oil on it, install on crank, then slip on oil pump bushing, then washer, oil pump pick up tube, oil pump, make sure to put sealant on oil pump bolts, worm gear and clutch. It fills gap between crank shaft and bushing. Will get pushed up against inner case bearing race. Never hold good vacuum without it.
 
Okay. I bought permatex high temp thread sealant for that. I thought maybe i'm supposed to put it somewhere else.

I've used it on chevrolet head bolts that go into coolant jackets and it is a good product. Thanks again.

For some reason I can't find a diagram with the crankshaft listed on ereplacement parts otherwise I would've known about it.
 
I tried to find the Husqvarna factory service manual but I can't.

I just installed the case halves and for some reason I could barely turn the crank. I had to put the nut on the flywheel side and hit it to center the crank. The counterweight was hitting the case on the flywheel side. It spins free now.

I used nachi NOS made in Japan bearings, I can't believe the oem bearings that came with the case halves had nylon cages, but the ones that came with the crank were skf (made in France). I used nachi because I wasn't sure what country the oem bearings I ordered would be manufactured in.

Does anyone know where the manual is, i'd pay for it if need be?

I thought maybe the crank will center itself when I torque down the clutch but i'm not certain.

I have honda bond and permatex anaerobic gasket sealer. I'm going to delete the cylinder base gasket which sealer is best to use? I put a skim coat of hondabond on both case halves plus the gasket.

Volvo actually uses anaerobic gasket maker for their oil pans and i've used it on manual transmissions. It works, but i've used hondabond on subaru camshaft caps and that also works well.
 
Don't delete the base gasket until you have a running saw. If you have issues in the final assembly stages the mod work becomes an annoying extra variable. Deleting it later is fast and easy.
 
It is one less thing to worry about.

I was going to open up the ports but i'll do that on a cheaper saw to learn. I may research more about cleaning up the transfer ports and gasket matching. I've used a degree wheel on the cam of a small block chevy, but i'm not going to do major mods on this saw.

I used a feeler gauge to center the crank after I freed it up.
 
I'm finding so much information on porting that i'm not sure what to do. I already have an assortment of carbides and two die grinders so that's not a problem.

I don't know if it's even worth it to gasket match the muffler and exhaust port. Then gasket match the transfer ports on the cylinder. I see people also grind that wall by the transfer ports.
 
Just match the jug you pulled off on the new jug on the lowers. The 75cc jug was designed for a chop saw originally and is restricted on the transfers
 
I did the exact thing over the past few weeks. Mine was a 365 special with a scored cylinder and bad crank. I split the case, installed new crank gasket ansd seals. The 365 cleaned up, so I ported it, an oem 50mm and an aftermarket 52mm.

Matching the lower transfers to the case helps.
20181204_131330.jpg

I also port match the muffler to the cylinder too. I did the 365 first, an the heat shield and then matched all 3.
20181206_085732.jpg
20181206_085754.jpg
20181107_094921.jpg
20181111_140021.jpg


My build. I'm talking about an aftermarket cylinder, but the steps are the same for the porting.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/porting-farmertec-372xp-bb.326964/
 

Similar threads

W
046/MS460 Carb
Replies
2
Views
229
WestAussie
W
G
Sold Stihl 460
Replies
3
Views
526
gavinmalloy18
G
B
["solved"] Should I buy it? 038 Magnum.
2
Replies
25
Views
1K
StihlsawuserMS361
S
ClassicTinkerer
Stihl 025 - To Reuse the Old Cylinder or Not?
Replies
3
Views
332
ClassicTinkerer
ClassicTinkerer
C
Stihl 200T- OEM or aftermarket crank seals and bearings
2
Replies
33
Views
1K
super3
super3

Latest posts

Back
Top