First Chainsaw Mill questions

[revdocjim]

On an impulse, I bought a very cheap chainsaw mill (Alaskan sawmill) on Amazon just to try it out. I'm planning on using my Stihl 462. I have 20", 25" and 30" bars, all with standard full house chains. Would it be stupid to try milling with a normal chain? Should I definitely purchase a ripping chain first? I would probably be milling oak or beech. Also is it best to use the shortest bar possible or is there any advantage to using the longer bars even on smaller logs? All advice welcome!

 

[BobL]

On an impulse, I bought a very cheap chainsaw mill (Alaskan sawmill) on Amazon just to try it out. I'm planning on using my Stihl 462. I have 20", 25" and 30" bars, all with standard full house chains. Would it be stupid to try milling with a normal chain?

No, All my chains start out as "normal" and over 5-6 successive sharpenings get converted to 10º top plate filing angles

Should I definitely purchase a ripping chain first? I would probably be milling oak or beech. Also is it best to use the shortest bar possible or is there any advantage to using the longer bars even on smaller logs? All advice welcome!

There's no need to by a ripping chain just to try the mill out. In terms of bar length it's "Swings and round abouts", shorter bar has the advantage of less chain being pulled around bar - longer bar has slightly better cooling. Start with the 20" and see how you go.

 

[revdocjim]

No, All my chains start out as "normal" and over 5-6 successive sharpenings get converted to 10º top plate filing angles


There's no need to by a ripping chain just to try the mill out. In terms of bar length it's "Swings and round abouts", shorter bar has the advantage of less chain being pulled around bar - longer bar has slightly better cooling. Start with the 20" and see how you go.

Thanks! I'll be giving it a try pretty soon!

 

[kenmbz]

I started with a 20" and ripping chain, turned out pretty good. Next will be a 24" and may buy a ripping chain just to reduce the work needed to finish the surface.
Agree with Bobl on start small and get used to the speed etc. My first mill cut was full of saw twists, so keep steady speed, make sure tanks are full and chain sharp.
If doing multiple cuts, check oil/gas and if you feel it slowing down, good time to rest the saw and cool it while checking sharpness.

 

[jstreet57]

On an impulse, I bought a very cheap chainsaw mill (Alaskan sawmill) on Amazon just to try it out. I'm planning on using my Stihl 462. I have 20", 25" and 30" bars, all with standard full house chains. Would it be stupid to try milling with a normal chain? Should I definitely purchase a ripping chain first? I would probably be milling oak or beech. Also is it best to use the shortest bar possible or is there any advantage to using the longer bars even on smaller logs? All advice welcome!

Get rip chain or convert your chain into rip..you can go to YouTube and learn how to convert..you will burn up a saw fast if you try to use cross cut chain to rip pluses it's a mess and plugs up the saw..i cut a tree that first four logs were to big for my sawmill so I had to rip slabs off to be able to cut it with my mill..later I cut the slabs into 1x12 and 1x10 base of tree was 6ft at small end of first log.cross cut chain WILK peel off long string like pieces that wrap around sprocket and just makes a mess..for just a couple cuts it's not to bad but no way you could do a entire log or tree..anyway..youtube has video of guy that made a mill out of boards and boat hand winch.even has hand throttle..you are not right at saw but back a little with handle you use to push or crank it through log cheap and easy if you have access to hand full of 2x4 and other stuff

 

[J D]

cross cut chain WILK peel off long string like pieces that wrap around sprocket and just makes a mess

The "long string like pieces" (noodles) are caused by cutting with the grain. No chain, standard or otherwise is going to do that cutting end grain as you do when milling the length of the log