First climb

[Doctor Dave]

Doctor Dave, do you always climb without a groundie? Sounds dangerous to me. I hope you at least take a cell phone so that you can call 911 if something happens to you up in the tree! You know, in case the homeowner isn't there, leaves or disappears for some reason. Be careful man.

I try to climb when someone is home. I took my cell phone up with me once, and broke the screen (the inside one still works). Best of all worlds: I'm working with the tree service I refer big jobs to, and do some climbing while the other two guys deal with the brush. Right now, we are clearing about 2 acres of brushy meadow/woods, in prep for laying out a house location. I designed the show, with an eye for retaining native plant diversity, using three colors of ribbon for cut, save, or save and prune for trees and shrubs.

One corner has big conifers and oaks. Climbed a huge branchy pine and "stovepiped" it---looks great. It would have gone quicker if I brought a pole with a hook---the deadwood kept hanging up and I had to branch walk to clear it up. I broke/cut the secondary deadwood while I was out there, but a pole would have been way quicker to just break the stuff off (nobodies gonna see a one inch stub 60 ft. off the ground!). The oaks have ant nests in some of the dead stubs---just love having them crawl all over me.

I have to re-tie part way down on three of the trees---I'm gonna have to get a 200 ft. rope. Re-tieing is cheaper, though.

And, yes, I'm hooking my way up the big conifers until I'm in big solid branches where I can free climb (with just a *** now and then) to where I tie-in. If I had a bow, and an extra line, I could "jug up" with my set of ascenders. Safer, but it can get annoying where the rope lays against branches. I don't like working off a descender (figure 8); seems like too much trouble to tie off/release all the time.

 

[Diesel JD]

Cool that you are preserving the native trees as much as possible. It'd be so much better if developers would cut down all the trees that were in the way and be real sensitive to the ones that were not...of course that would mean less work for everybody here...if you know what I mean.. Keep hanging in there Blackbeard...what you're doing is impressive.

 

[(WLL)]

ladders are good

on a 30 ft tree just get a ladder:bang:

 

[JTinaTree]

on a 30 ft tree just get a ladder:bang:

Um... I think that would defeat the process of learning..Blackbeard76 hang in there you will get the hang of it just keep practicing.

 

[Dadatwins]

Get yourself a pair of atlas type gloves, mesh with rubber palm grips, makes grabbing the rope much easier especially when starting out. Another thing to watch for is the distance between your knot and your saddle. A lot of newbie keep the knot very close and it makes it hard to pull up the full length of your arms. When using the blakes or tautline the attachment knot should be far enough away that you can hold all the wraps in your hand with your arms fully extended. Tautline is a good learner knot and should be mastered, but there are much better /safer attachment knots available once you get the feel of relying on the rope. As for spikes, leave them alone for now, get used to relying on the rope, knots and the balance involved in the work. good luck.

 

[clearance]

Get yourself a pair of atlas type gloves, mesh with rubber palm grips, makes grabbing the rope much easier especially when starting out. Another thing to watch for is the distance between your knot and your saddle. A lot of newbie keep the knot very close and it makes it hard to pull up the full length of your arms. When using the blakes or tautline the attachment knot should be far enough away that you can hold all the wraps in your hand with your arms fully extended. Tautline is a good learner knot and should be mastered, but there are much better /safer attachment knots available once you get the feel of relying on the rope. As for spikes, leave them alone for now, get used to relying on the rope, knots and the balance involved in the work. good luck.

Uhhh, like why? How about just climb the tree with spurs and a steelcore and get used to being at hieghts? Relying on a rope? OK, fine like are you cool with what its tied to, I mean its only your life. No need for all the b.s. like pulling on the rope, just walk up the tree. I use the tautline for coming down or moving around. When I put my rope around branches to come down I am looking right at that point, like I can touch it, its not 40-50' above my head, crazy.:bang: :bang: Good luck, be safe.

 

[Tree Machine]

Uhhh, like why? How about just climb the tree with spurs and a steelcore and get used to being at hieghts?

That would take the joy out of firing a BigShot and the unique skill of ascending a rope.

Clearance, I scratch my head when I read about guys struggling with ascending with friction hitches on 2:1 systems, which is pretty much a daily occurance in this forum, but I hope and pray I don't come off as an arrogant do-it-my-way-or-you're-an-idiot cowboy.

We don't spike trees because we're in TREE CARE. Spiking through the cambial layer of a tree is not caring for it. Puncturing through this living tissue, biologically speaking, is damaging. Professionally speaking, it is unnecessary.

Now, I respect your facet of arboriculture and I understand the size of your trees in the bush are big and thick-barked. But most of us perform tree care on trees that are not as thick-barked and are they are owned by people who hire and pay us. From the perspective of those who sign our paychecks, leaving spike marks on the trunks of their trees for them to see long after we're gone is just not acceptable practice. They expect more of us. At a minimum, to not create and leave unnecessary, visible damage.

To achieve this, we rely on ropes.


Personally, I like to let fellow climbers know that good footlocking technique on 1:1 rope using low-friction hardware can get you ascending as fast as going up a ladder, or on spikes. However, flat-out speed isn't as important to most as it is for you and me. Most (myself included) place priority on the care of the tree. Do you know why??? Because we're TREE CARE PROFESSIONALS.

Up until now, Clearance, I have always smiled as you paint a picture of yourself, we're all unique and different, and that's cool. But as far as this last rant in Arbo 101 in a thread titled 'First Climb', dude, give it a rest. You are shelling out advice that applies to takedowns and line clearance. It's not AT ALL what this thread is about.

 

[OTG BOSTON]

That would take the joy out of firing a BigShot and the unique skill of ascending a rope.

Clearance, I scratch my head when I read about guys struggling with ascending with friction hitches on 2:1 systems, which is pretty much a daily occurance in this forum, but I hope and pray I don't come off as an arrogant do-it-my-way-or-you're-an-idiot cowboy.

Good post TM. Ive seen you post similar sentiments before. Ascending on a 1:1 is much more efficient and is a skill all good arborists' should have. Thank you for opening my eyes to that. Having stated that, I think everyone should learn the basics first which includes body thrusting on a 2:1. I believe the instructor Blackbeard has actually teaches his students how to climb on a bowlin on a bight first (now THAT is oldschool) . BTW you don't come across as arrogant, you just make sense.

 

[lorax]

Uhhh, like why? How about just climb the tree with spurs and a steelcore and get used to being at hieghts? Relying on a rope? OK, fine like are you cool with what its tied to, I mean its only your life. No need for all the b.s. like pulling on the rope, just walk up the tree. I use the tautline for coming down or moving around. When I put my rope around branches to come down I am looking right at that point, like I can touch it, its not 40-50' above my head, crazy.:bang: :bang: Good luck, be safe.

Climb with spurs and top trees? Are you Certified? How are spurs healthy for a tree?

 

[clearance]

Never did I say to only climb with spurs, only that it is the safest, best way to start. Some here say that anyone can climb with spurs, no talent needed. Treeseer had a poll about the safest way to climb and spurs had more votes than any other method. The guy is starting out, I want him to be comfortable and safe. Lorax, I ain't going to rehash stuff, yes I am certified here, to climb around powerlines that is, ISA don't mean jack in that regard. Treemachine, that was a pretty good post you made, cheers.

 

[lorax]

Never did I say to only climb with spurs, only that it is the safest, best way to start. Some here say that anyone can climb with spurs, no talent needed. Treeseer had a poll about the safest way to climb and spurs had more votes than any other method. The guy is starting out, I want him to be comfortable and safe. Lorax, I ain't going to rehash stuff, yes I am certified here, to climb around powerlines that is, ISA don't mean jack in that regard. Treemachine, that was a pretty good post you made, cheers.

If he climbs on spurs first he will not learn to climb on rope. At the college I teach at we start them out withe the basic climbing set up the good old "body thrust". The students have to have a firm grip on this skill before they climb on spike, usually 8-9 climbing sessions:biggrinbounce2:

 

[Climbah in Mass]

blackbeard's first climb

Black beard if it is any consolation I can remember being out with OTG and struggling my fat ace up a tree. ANY APPLE OF THE CRAB VARIETY For some of us bigger guys (6'2" 260 here and damn proud of it) it is not as easy. but simply keeping at it and getting the body thrusting down, is huge. Not only for ascending but simply moving around the tree once you get there. Hey Also you work out muscles you never knew you had, but really need to do this stuff. one suggestion stay away from binding knots. start out on a Blake's(tie it right!!! suislide!!) But once you get comfort on it get onto something less binding at our weight it makes the journeys a lot easier than fighting with a knot all day. Also micropully is a life saver in the hand over hand. get the basics down first and struggle now.
IF ALL ELSE FAILS DRILL HOLES, INSTALL THROUGH BOLTS AND JUST WALK UP LIKE A LADDER.

 

[Magnum783]

I was terriable off the bat too. I didn't quite know how to use my toes. That is my recomendation. Use your toes to help you push up the trunk. OH and has anyone mentioned practice makes perfect.
Jared

 

[booboo]

Ah yes, the first climbing class at Stockbridge. In mine was a chick with arms the size of Rambo's who'd been climbing for a while. She was in the same tree as me, big white oak I think. She flew up the tree and I flailed and sweated and swore and humped my sorry butt over the first branch, then sat there for about 10 minutes catching my breath and trying to figure out what to do next!

Who's teaching that class these days?

 

[Dadatwins]

Never did I say to only climb with spurs, only that it is the safest, best way to start.

Spurs and tree work has been beaten up so many times here not even worth another :deadhorse:
As for a newbie starting out, basics in my opinion mean rope and saddle, on a 2:1 with a tautline with a body thrust. That is all many started with back in the day and it is all many still need and use today. Gaffs have there place and they are invaluable on many removals, but I am sure we all know someone who at some time has jammed a gaff into a boot or shin. Why add the additional danger factor? For the purpose of arbo 101 I say leave the gaffs in the truck and learn the basics. Additional skills like gaffs, I agree it is a skill, and various friction hitches and even footlocking or pantins or whatever can come later. I have said it before there are too many climbers out there that start out with a bunch of clips and prussics and advanced mechanical devices, that run the risk of dropping one of these newfangled gadgets while up in a tree and panic because now they are stuck and they can't get out of the tree. I am all for the new stuff and believe it saves a whole lot of time and energy, but someone starting out should learn and master the barest of basics before moving on. JMHO

 

[treeseer]

...there are too many climbers out there that start out with a bunch of clips and prussics and advanced mechanical devices, that run the risk of dropping one of these newfangled gadgets while up in a tree and panic because now they are stuck and they can't get out of the tree. I am all for the new stuff and believe it saves a whole lot of time and energy, but someone starting out should learn and master the barest of basics before moving on. JMHO

:rockn:

First you walk, then you run. Or not; runners do not always win the race.

Remember the Tortoise and the Hare?

a guy could spend <$300 on new gear and climb and prune any tree.

 

[OTG BOSTON]

cut it out.............

Black beard if it is any consolation I can remember being out with OTG and struggling my fat ace up a tree. ANY APPLE OF THE CRAB VARIETY For some of us bigger guys (6'2" 260 here and damn proud of it) it is not as easy. but simply keeping at it and getting the body thrusting down, is huge. Not only for ascending but simply moving around the tree once you get there. Hey Also you work out muscles you never knew you had, but really need to do this stuff. one suggestion stay away from binding knots. start out on a Blake's(tie it right!!! suislide!!) But once you get comfort on it get onto something less binding at our weight it makes the journeys a lot easier than fighting with a knot all day. Also micropully is a life saver in the hand over hand. get the basics down first and struggle now.
IF ALL ELSE FAILS DRILL HOLES, INSTALL THROUGH BOLTS AND JUST WALK UP LIKE A LADDER.

You haven't been 260 since high school. I heard you throw a rope into the tree and bend it down to the ground while the rest of the crew prunes it:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Climbah in Mass]

All right allright

You haven't been 260 since high school. I heard you throw a rope into the tree and bend it down to the ground while the rest of the crew prunes it:hmm3grin2orange:

You know it is only the larger oaks I can do that with now. Any thing over 2.5 dbh gets a bit tough.