My wife and I are looking for our first wood burning stove,I'm not sure where to start and need help please.We live in NW NJ(Sussex county) and while it dosen't get as cold as where some of you live we usually see some -0 temps at least for a few days every winter.Our house is about 1400 SF,oil heat,like so many others we just can't afford to pay the price for heating fuel.Any stove brand and models you can recommend,cast vs. steel,any suggestions?thanks for any help.
First Stove Help Please
- Thread starter NORTHMAN
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I can't give any specs on stoves, having not shopped for one in a long time - But, as with most things, you get what you pay for - A few other things you might want to check, one is your homeowners insurance, some will drop you for a woodstove. Another - does your house have a good chimney? They can cost as much as the stove. Buying wood or cutting your own? And lastly, any neighbors [like right on top of you] Depending what you buy & burn the smoke can be an issue - Just a few thoughts.
blackdogon57
Addicted to ArboristSite
location, location, location
Where you place the stove can be as important as the type and brand or stove. A well placed modern wood stove can heat most houses no problem. Consider having a professional come to your house to assess what your needs and recommend the right product for you. If they are not willing to take the time to come to you - keep looking. Insurance companies will also want to know all work is done correctly and that the stove is properly certified ( UL listed/EPA certified, etc).
Good luck
Where you place the stove can be as important as the type and brand or stove. A well placed modern wood stove can heat most houses no problem. Consider having a professional come to your house to assess what your needs and recommend the right product for you. If they are not willing to take the time to come to you - keep looking. Insurance companies will also want to know all work is done correctly and that the stove is properly certified ( UL listed/EPA certified, etc).
Good luck
Lumberzack
ArboristSite Member
Does the house have a basement? Our Jotul 600 is in our basement and does a great job! I like the basement for two reasons. 1) heat rises. 2) wood is dirty and the mess stays down stairs and out of sight!
Our log house is 2200 sq ft. We used alittle over 50 gal. of LP this past year. The wife says thats because she doesn't cook! LOL Later! LZ
Our log house is 2200 sq ft. We used alittle over 50 gal. of LP this past year. The wife says thats because she doesn't cook! LOL Later! LZ
MJR
ArboristSite Guru
Make a drawing of your house as much detail as possible, every floor. Bring this to your local dealers. They can show you the models that will serve your needs and chimney requirements. Stay out of the box stores. You will not save money there. Once you have a few models picked out, post your ideas and you will get some feed back. Good luck.
BIG JAKE
Let’s go Brandon!
Other considerations are emmissions. We have emmissions requirements in my city and so have "No burn" days. I am able to burn all the time because I have a certified stove.
Look also at where you want to put it.
1) If it's free standing, pay attention to the metal label on the back of any units you're interested in. It will have a diagram depicting distances to combustibles which includes walls and furniture. Stoves are built/designed differently. Depending on shielding or the way stoves are made, some units can be six inches away from a wall with no additional shielding measures required as in my case. Might make a difference in liveability of the space after stove is in.
2) If it's going into a fireplace there are two types of fireplaces: Masonry and pre-fab. Ratings inserts for pre-fab fireplaces are not the same as for masonry.
3)Mobile home: must be rated for mobile homes and use outside air for combustion(at least they used to)
Installation: Install all componentry to manufacturers requirements and to code, for insurance reasons if nothing else. This includes piping. They could possibly refuse to pay if your house burns due to faulty installation.
Steel stoves seem to put out heat faster than cast iron. I don't know if it has to do with the porousnes or thermal mass(weight difference). Cast is often heavier maybe that's why-so slower to come up to temp. Steel stove finishes will fade with time(painted) whereas cast can be porcelain enameled which is easer to clean and will look new for a very long time.
Some brands: Lopi, jotul, vermont castings, soapstone, Dovre. There are many more very good ones/lots of different looks.
Enjoy
Look also at where you want to put it.
1) If it's free standing, pay attention to the metal label on the back of any units you're interested in. It will have a diagram depicting distances to combustibles which includes walls and furniture. Stoves are built/designed differently. Depending on shielding or the way stoves are made, some units can be six inches away from a wall with no additional shielding measures required as in my case. Might make a difference in liveability of the space after stove is in.
2) If it's going into a fireplace there are two types of fireplaces: Masonry and pre-fab. Ratings inserts for pre-fab fireplaces are not the same as for masonry.
3)Mobile home: must be rated for mobile homes and use outside air for combustion(at least they used to)
Installation: Install all componentry to manufacturers requirements and to code, for insurance reasons if nothing else. This includes piping. They could possibly refuse to pay if your house burns due to faulty installation.
Steel stoves seem to put out heat faster than cast iron. I don't know if it has to do with the porousnes or thermal mass(weight difference). Cast is often heavier maybe that's why-so slower to come up to temp. Steel stove finishes will fade with time(painted) whereas cast can be porcelain enameled which is easer to clean and will look new for a very long time.
Some brands: Lopi, jotul, vermont castings, soapstone, Dovre. There are many more very good ones/lots of different looks.
Enjoy
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Blowncrewcab
ArboristSite Guru
My only suggestion is get one with a fan. After having one with a fan I couldn't imagin having one without......
Hey Northman,
I'm in NJ, too, in Hunterdon County. I installed a cast iron Jotul F3 in my 1400 sf ranch last November and am very happy with it. I second the advice you received above-- make a drawing (doesn't have to be pretty, just get the measurements close) and take it to a stove dealer near you. The structure of your house, access to exterior walls, etc., will affect your options to some degree.
I went to SOS Stove and Fireplace in Warren County and was very happy with them. I compared Lopi, Jotul, and Morso wood stoves and also looked at pellet stoves and discussed the pros and cons of all with the owner. They answered all my questions, explained how to operate the stove properly and safely, and then gave me everything I needed to do the installation myself. (No comparison to buying a stove off the floor at Tractor Supply, for example, though that's a fine store otherwise.)
Your questions about cast iron vs. steel, which brand, etc., can be answered by your dealer specific to your budget and needs. I wanted cast iron for the durability, heat-holding ability, and the look. I chose Jotul for their excellent reputation and solid construction. After a season of burning, I am thoroughly pleased with the F3.
I had to do the full installation at my place: pre-fab UL-listed hearth, stove, stovepipe, ceiling support kit, and double wall stainless chimney. It's true that the chimney cost almost as much as the stove. That's for about 16' from the top of my stove to the top of my chimney.
At the time, I was wondering if the whole project would be "worth it." After using the stove all winter, that would be a definite Yes.
It's more work heating with wood-- wife and I cut and split our own-- but we keep the house much warmer than we could afford to with oil heat and we save money. Enough money, at these oil prices, for my stove installation to have paid for itself by the end of the second heating season in spring 2009. 
A good place to start would be the Lopi , Jotul, and other manufacturers' web sites, then a visit to a couple of dealers. (There should be a few to choose from up your way.) You can find more stoves and information on heating with wood at http://www.lehmans.com
Also, start thinking about your supply of firewood. Even if you're going to cut your own, you'll need to get it cut and started seasoning ahead of time... like, now, if you're going to be ready for winter.
I'm in NJ, too, in Hunterdon County. I installed a cast iron Jotul F3 in my 1400 sf ranch last November and am very happy with it. I second the advice you received above-- make a drawing (doesn't have to be pretty, just get the measurements close) and take it to a stove dealer near you. The structure of your house, access to exterior walls, etc., will affect your options to some degree.
I went to SOS Stove and Fireplace in Warren County and was very happy with them. I compared Lopi, Jotul, and Morso wood stoves and also looked at pellet stoves and discussed the pros and cons of all with the owner. They answered all my questions, explained how to operate the stove properly and safely, and then gave me everything I needed to do the installation myself. (No comparison to buying a stove off the floor at Tractor Supply, for example, though that's a fine store otherwise.)
Your questions about cast iron vs. steel, which brand, etc., can be answered by your dealer specific to your budget and needs. I wanted cast iron for the durability, heat-holding ability, and the look. I chose Jotul for their excellent reputation and solid construction. After a season of burning, I am thoroughly pleased with the F3.
I had to do the full installation at my place: pre-fab UL-listed hearth, stove, stovepipe, ceiling support kit, and double wall stainless chimney. It's true that the chimney cost almost as much as the stove. That's for about 16' from the top of my stove to the top of my chimney.
At the time, I was wondering if the whole project would be "worth it." After using the stove all winter, that would be a definite Yes.
It's more work heating with wood-- wife and I cut and split our own-- but we keep the house much warmer than we could afford to with oil heat and we save money. Enough money, at these oil prices, for my stove installation to have paid for itself by the end of the second heating season in spring 2009. A good place to start would be the Lopi , Jotul, and other manufacturers' web sites, then a visit to a couple of dealers. (There should be a few to choose from up your way.) You can find more stoves and information on heating with wood at http://www.lehmans.com
Also, start thinking about your supply of firewood. Even if you're going to cut your own, you'll need to get it cut and started seasoning ahead of time... like, now, if you're going to be ready for winter.
qphrfd01
ArboristSite Lurker
I had a cape 1750 s/ft open floor plan up on the ridge just off Kemah Lake Hampton / Frankford town line and heated it very well with a Jotul F500. I liked the stove not a bad burn cycle but I noticed more than my other stoves this one was MUCH MUCH better on seasoned wood. We have a F3 CB in the family room of a different house now, it is ok for this room 18 x 25 but burn cycle is 4/5 hours and like I read I don't like the small ash pan. We also have the F3 CB in a 28 x 32 cabin in Maine and ok after a while. These are just my experience there are many other good stoves out there, good luck. I used SOS also.
GO KITTATINY!!!!
GO KITTATINY!!!!
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tbuggle
ArboristSite Operative
we saved a few bucks and bought a plate steel CFM from lowes three years ago. While it has pd for itself several times over (about $600 all said and done) next time around i'll opt for a nicer stove (ie: jotul, vermont castings etc...).
also, i heat 1600 square feet with a !000 sq ft stove in the basement (about 1100 square feet upstairs). we're in th NC mtns, so not as cold as some...
also, i heat 1600 square feet with a !000 sq ft stove in the basement (about 1100 square feet upstairs). we're in th NC mtns, so not as cold as some...
Ask the gang over on Hearth.com. Have a drawing or a real good description of your place, where you live, you level of insulation, etc. and they crew over there should come up with good suggestions.
iowawoodcutter
ArboristSite Operative
I bought a Hampton H300 cast stove with fan and really like it. It is in the basement 1000 ft2 and the main level is 1250 ft2. It will heat the basement to 78 and upstairs to 70-72 no problem on even the coldest Iowa winter. If I had to do it over again though I would probably get a bigger stove for the sole reason of having a bigger firebox. Mine will take 18" log max. Sure would be nice to be able to take bigger.
C
C
iowawoodcutter
ArboristSite Operative
Ditto on the hearth.com. That is where I got my info and decided on my hampton H300.
logbutcher
Addicted to ArboristSite
Wood Stove 101
ALL of the above plus:
1. Don't go cheap. This is a investment for years that will pay for itself quickly. Such as : Stove AND chimney cost = $3000+ (easy if you need a chimney or lining). That's $300/year for a 10 year life of a stove.
2. Take online advice gently. Most seem to have strong opinions on just what they have, not experience. Many on the hearthnet site seem to hang out as computer geeks playing games. A few like the webmaster at hearthnet do have wood stove chops, most seem to just like playing online.
3. Get out ask and look at real world setups in your area: how long have they had the XYZ stove ? Pros and cons ? How much of their heat needs are supplied by wood ? BIG difference heating from 55 F up to room temperature and completely committing to heating with wood 100%.
4. If you're looking at the coming winter, get going NOW. Get your wood NOW. Plan the needed BTU's for what you need even if you don't have a stove yet..
5. Place the stove where you spend the time; wood stove work best in radiant heating. Say no to basement stoves; yes, heat rises, and also goes out the usually uninsulated foundation. You want to heat dirt and concrete ?
6. Finally, the advice here is solid: get a stove that you like to look at. This is going to centrally sit in front of your eyeballsopcorn: for years and 100's of hours. Make it pretty like a ( my opinionated bias :censored: ) porcelain cast iron or soapstone stove.
Experience: 100% wood heating since discharge in the 70's. Usually harvesting all our firewood. We've gone through too many stoves over the years to think about; Ashley, Tempwood, Fisher, Morso, Jotul, Vermont Castings ( the real and the not-so-good new) etc....back .
PS Get your wood now.
ALL of the above plus:
1. Don't go cheap. This is a investment for years that will pay for itself quickly. Such as : Stove AND chimney cost = $3000+ (easy if you need a chimney or lining). That's $300/year for a 10 year life of a stove.
2. Take online advice gently. Most seem to have strong opinions on just what they have, not experience. Many on the hearthnet site seem to hang out as computer geeks playing games. A few like the webmaster at hearthnet do have wood stove chops, most seem to just like playing online.
3. Get out ask and look at real world setups in your area: how long have they had the XYZ stove ? Pros and cons ? How much of their heat needs are supplied by wood ? BIG difference heating from 55 F up to room temperature and completely committing to heating with wood 100%.
4. If you're looking at the coming winter, get going NOW. Get your wood NOW. Plan the needed BTU's for what you need even if you don't have a stove yet..
5. Place the stove where you spend the time; wood stove work best in radiant heating. Say no to basement stoves; yes, heat rises, and also goes out the usually uninsulated foundation. You want to heat dirt and concrete ?
6. Finally, the advice here is solid: get a stove that you like to look at. This is going to centrally sit in front of your eyeballs
opcorn: for years and 100's of hours. Make it pretty like a ( my opinionated bias :censored: ) porcelain cast iron or soapstone stove. Experience: 100% wood heating since discharge in the 70's. Usually harvesting all our firewood. We've gone through too many stoves over the years to think about; Ashley, Tempwood, Fisher, Morso, Jotul, Vermont Castings ( the real and the not-so-good new) etc....back .
PS Get your wood now.
iowawoodcutter
ArboristSite Operative
There is so much to consider when looking at a stove, but the little lady is the most important. It took me almost nine months to finally decide on one. When it came down to it, we got the one my wife liked best. If she was not happy with the stove, I never would hear the end of it.
In all seriousness though, you will find these discussions in groves on hearth.com and other places. Google them, they are not hard to find. I choose the hampton cast iron stove because it looked the best, got a good deal on a floor model, they threw in a blower and it was gasketed instead of cemented.
Go to a local wood stove dealer. Mine was very patient and was more than willing to explain anything I needed help with.
link to forum or woodstoves on hearth.com
http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewforum/2/
In all seriousness though, you will find these discussions in groves on hearth.com and other places. Google them, they are not hard to find. I choose the hampton cast iron stove because it looked the best, got a good deal on a floor model, they threw in a blower and it was gasketed instead of cemented.
Go to a local wood stove dealer. Mine was very patient and was more than willing to explain anything I needed help with.
link to forum or woodstoves on hearth.com
http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewforum/2/
logbutcher
Addicted to ArboristSite
coryolson;1063872 When it came down to it said:
Welded steel stoves have the advantage of integrity: no joints except in doors. They are usually less expensive than cast stoves. Except for the better made thicker steel stoves 3/8" +, they do warp or buckle with excessive burns. Steel stoves can't be made 'pretty' like the cast stoves. Cast iron will hold the heat longer---soapstone adds even more to the mass. Cast is more expensive and needs more maintenance and care than steel.
Then we have the EPA cat and non-cat arguments..........For balance we have one of each.:monkey:
iowawoodcutter
ArboristSite Operative
I agree with you on not needing the blower. The whole house heat just the same whether I use the blower or not. But it was free AND it feels great to stand in front of it after spending hours outside running the chainsaw in sub zero temps...
C
C
logbutcher
Addicted to ArboristSite
True confession here: I don't know which of the newer ones are.
We did have a pre-EPA Fisher "Bear" that are still out there- Mama Bear, Papa, Bear, Baby Bear. Our Tempwood top loader is the workshop stove--not made anymore unfortunately. Typical of steel stoves however, the sides are slightly bowed from overfiring since it was lent to my contractor friend (former
)for a winter job last year along with gobs of plaster bonded to the beast. Both the Tempwood and Fishers were made like a tank. Try your local dealers, and do a search for specs.We like cast stoves for heat and looks.
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