Used ones are out there. Besides what’s your health worth?
Fiskars Question
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5crows
ArboristSite Lurker
I split mostly oak, and moved to the over the head and back stance with the X27, and got a much better result, versus an over shoulder side swing. This swing seems to center/align the axe bit's force better and is almost as good as a visit to the chiropractor for putting all your skeletal frame, ligaments in perfect harmony! I started looking forward to splitting wood.
The back swing with this stance and increased arc, provides more force against the block surface with a much more powerful swing, in my opinion.
I started noticing the sound differences between a complete split, a partial hit and many fewer stuck swings. The fiber handle seems to be far more durable than any wood handle I''ve used.
The back swing with this stance and increased arc, provides more force against the block surface with a much more powerful swing, in my opinion.
I started noticing the sound differences between a complete split, a partial hit and many fewer stuck swings. The fiber handle seems to be far more durable than any wood handle I''ve used.
blackman614
New Member
I have had the X25 for 10 years and love it. But like the guy above stated... on your downstroke, relax. Let the axe head do the work. Do NOT power through on your downstroke. You will get injured or worse.
I have owned more splitters then I can remember including a Timber wolf with the hydrolic lift and multi blade knife. Sold them all but 1 that is parked in my barn waiting reconstruction about 15 years now.
They have their place with me but working by myself, selling the bulk of my wood straight from the woods to the customer they are more of a burden and expense using then a help. UsuaIly leave the house with my pickup or pickup + my old army trailer, drive a few to several miles, snake through the woods until i find a reasonably dry tree or more to make 1/3 to 1/2 cord of 16inch firewood to go to the customer from there. Chainsaws and maul and axe is quickest, easiest and more profitable for this situation . Splitter is work hooking and unhooking, a pain maneuvering in the woods, having to carry blocks to it, in the way of loading the truck , an extra trip or 2 back to the house before my delivery , this that maintnence, more fuel cost, etc. goes using the splitter. Understandably 2 or more people working together cutting a lot of wood in a day and bringing it home a good splitter is more often worth the effort and u can leave it at home and split as u unload or from a pile. For me, what i don't sell i take the bulk of my wood from the dead tree in the woods, in my pickup straight to inside my house to burn. Usually its not to difficult to split the loads I haul by maul or axe with a little noodling through excess knots when i have them. My 63 year old body with a semi handicapped shoulder doesn't feel much harm doing a few loads or more a week, like I do. Actually I like the work out for my lungs.
I’ve had a lot of problems with tennis elbow (nobody ever gets it from tennis) so anything to eliminate vibration is a priority for me.
Slow .
I would rather noodle . That is what my dad did when in his upper 80's. No shock using the chainsaw and you don't have to lift anything heavier then the chainsaw.
Hermio
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have used a lot of mauls over the years. The X27 is the second best I have used. It is better than the 8 lb Fiskars iso-core. However, the best I have used is the original Sotz 15 lb Monster Maul. It explodes many large blocks, and it never gets stuck. A bit hard on the hands and shoulders, though. I use the roundhouse swing, which produces more velocity that an overhead drop. These days, I only use manual splitting for large rounds too heavy for me to lift to my power splitter. I generally just quarter them to get manageable pieces.
I have a Chopper splitter. I didn't use it much unless I ran into a really tough piece.
Downside is that it can throw the split wood around 15 to 20 feet so you have to watch anything in that circle that might get damaged.
This is a X-27 I converted to a wood handle.
Hi Tim.
Hi Roger,
How are things in Big Sky country?
Things are good. Not much snow yet but we have had some pretty cold weather. I just keep burning that wood.
Well if you happen to own a X-27 axe by fiskars and you break the handle on it then it is pretty much useless unless you figure out a way to put another handle on it like a wood one. I was just showing an example that it can be done.
Otherwise you are pretty much stuck with a splitting wedge. So no big deal but I know the X-27 axes are pretty popular and just sharing some info for X-27 owners.
I was curious how well it performed with the wood handle, compared to the composite handle. .
Thanks
Philbert
Hermio
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you break the handle, Fiskars will send you a new maul. It has a lifetime warranty.
Yes you are correct. I did not break the handle on this one. It was someone else and they did get a new axe from Fiskars and so he sent me the old one and that is what I used. I think the old axe head had been laying around for awhile since it was rusted up.
To start with I made the handle a little shorter because the 36" one is to long for me and I can manage a shorter handle better. So far I have done some splitting with it and I have driven some steel wedges with it to see if there is any distortion that would cause a problem. I have done about 5 rounds so far and it has held up very good. The handle is still very tight and no signs of moving at all. I am going to do more work with it today and keep testing it.
I am retired and this was just a fun project for me.
Modified the axe holder today. The edge is now protected.
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