Fixed up a Partner 1616

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PaulDaisy

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Hi folks,
New to the forum but read up quite a few threads, absorbing the wisdom. I have use chansaws little in the past and only the Druzba one - who ever heard of that!, and got a Partner from a friend that he found somewhere. The saw did not run. After taking it apart and a thorough cleaning, it still did not run well but coughed and ran, and died. So a new spark plug went in, and it now runs real good! I am pleased. Picked up sharpening files and gave the chain a refresher, can't wait to try it out now.
One thing, on high RPM at WOT, the saw does not hold steady RPM, instead it goes up and down even if I hold throttle wide open. I played with HI screw but did not get anywhere.
I am thinking, is it the thin air? I live at 5,000 ft.
Thanks!
-P
 
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Partner 1616 questions

No replies... oh well.
I will be getting a carb rebuild kit, hopefully that is what the Partner needs.
This little saw is kind of nice at least in the fact that it says "Made in the USA" right on the side cover! Where can you get that nowdays. Of course once you open it up all parts say Made in Canada, but oh well! I will keep an American made one ;)
In looking at the chain (3/8 91lp 56 Oregon) and sprocket, I noticed that drive links are rather sharp and catch the finger if you run it on the inside the chain. The sprocket has two shiny notches on every tooth, side by side, as if the chain ran 1/16" to one side, then another. I will re-inspect them again once I get a chance to make sure the PO did not put a 3/8 chain on a 1/4 sprocket :dizzy: and it looks like I need a new one anyway.
So, do they make a rim sprocket for a saw that small? I would rather get it than a single piece one but all I can find is this:
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/N217-M6.html
Should I change to 1/4 chain? The saw has the original 16" bar.
 
Avoid 1/4 pitch chain, too hard to find, becoming obsolete.

As for your high needle, you either have a air leak or it is not getting enough fuel. The screen in the carb gets clogged all the time and can be a source of your problem. I suggest cleaning the carb, checking your fuel lines for holes, and report back.
 
Thanks! I will put a kit in the carb, those flapper valves don't look bad but they are like 25 years old, so can't be all that great. I did not check the fuel pick-up line, so that might be clogged up actually. It probably has a strainer on the end, I didn't think of that.
 
Check your points

Chances are they are dirty and or worn.

Also check the kill switch and wiring for shorts as they are prone to cause problems in this saw

The saw came with 1/4 inch chain so it may very well have a mismatch in chain and sprocket.

If you remove the carburetor go slow and remember how the linkages hook up and how the throttle arm routes as the arraignment on most of these style saws can make you pull your hair out trying to reassemble it.

A digital camera can help
 
I know what you mean ;)
I already took the carb apart twice and took off the coil and cleaned everything up, so it looks like it was hardly used now. The linkages are tricky but seem to fit in in only one way. The saw does not like to start easy, I end up tweaking the idle screw to open a bit wider, then messing with LO every time, then it idles well; the next time on a cold start it is the same thing over again.
It also goes through fuel like a drunken sailor through rum, like one tank per 5 min idling and revving up.
 
Most of these that I have seen, all had 3/8's low pro chain on them. Not saying some didnt have 1/4.

Oregon list a #28001 sprocket for them and it only comes 3/8's.

I had 2 of these 1612's, gave one to my Uncle, and I still have the other and its a runner.
 
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Most of these that I have seen, all had 3/8's low pro chain on them. Not saying some didnt have 1/4.

Oregon list a #28001 sprocket for them and it only comes 3/8's.

I had 2 of these 1612's, gave one to my Uncle, and I still have the other and its a runner.

Having a closer look at the saw here I thought was a 1616 it is a mini P-IV so you are likely right..

That was around the time frame of the switch from 1/4 to 3/8ths LP
 
New on this forum peter from london england

I know what you mean ;)
I already took the carb apart twice and took off the coil and cleaned everything up, so it looks like it was hardly used now. The linkages are tricky but seem to fit in in only one way. The saw does not like to start easy, I end up tweaking the idle screw to open a bit wider, then messing with LO every time, then it idles well; the next time on a cold start it is the same thing over again.
It also goes through fuel like a drunken sailor through rum, like one tank per 5 min idling and revving up.

Well I have read what you said and yes even I thought the carb and rebuild is tricky !!
I have had a start up then will not maintain high revs just dies away and then it take time to restart so do you think air leaking in ie fuel pipe causing fuel starvation? I need to buy a carb kit for my 1616 to change all diaphragms ??
Anyway I hope to get some advice re this American product I have hear in London regard to all on this frorum Peter
 
Sorry for a long delay, didn't see the post.
I ended up dialing the screw settings by feel, so I can't really tell what the factory ones would be. I am at high altitude too, so what I have may not work for others. Currently the little 1616 is my third saw and sees little use but it starts with 2-3 pulls every time, idles well and picks up RPM instantly. I have not checked it under load recently though.
Cheers,
-P
 
I know what you mean ;)
I already took the carb apart twice and took off the coil and cleaned everything up, so it looks like it was hardly used now. The linkages are tricky but seem to fit in in only one way. The saw does not like to start easy, I end up tweaking the idle screw to open a bit wider, then messing with LO every time, then it idles well; the next time on a cold start it is the same thing over again.
It also goes through fuel like a drunken sailor through rum, like one tank per 5 min idling and revving up.
 

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