Flooding Out Stihl 250 Chainsaw

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woodchuck33

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Hey guys,
I bought a Stihl 250 less than a year ago and used it through the end of summer, fall, and a little this winter. When I tried to start it this summer, it wouldn't start. I took it to the dealer and they got it started by not engaging the choke at all. They told me that I was flooding it out using the choke because the temperatures were so high this year here in Texas. They said that I needed to remove the gas cap to release the fume build up from the fuel and just give it a couple of tugs to get it started without the choke engaged. My warranty is almost up and a question is really bothering me... Are they just putting a Band Aid on a bigger problem? It seems to have worked, but I am dealing with the guys at an ACE Hardware Store and really do not know how reliable their information is. I just do not want to continue to encounter this problem and find out I got the shaft. ALL help is appreciated.:msp_confused:
 
Second opinion

As long as you are going the warranty route, make sure to get a second opinion, and if the problem persists, make sure it is noted on your shop ticket customer is still not satisfied. You might be able to escalate the problem then beyond the warranty period if needs be. What corporations say on their warranties is not necessarily what the law says......

With that said, does the saw start cold? If you leave it in the house so it is more moderate temp, then go right out in the morning and try to start it normally, with the choke pulled, does it start and run normally?

I have now exhausted what I might know. There are a lot of issues with that tank pressure and so on, obvious first one being the vent. It could very well be though if it is wicked hot that the pressure just gets too high and no choke needed, who knows..but get a second opinion from another dealer.

It gets hot here in Georgia as well, I have not seen what you are seeing starting saws in the summer, and I cut in the 90s all the time. I have seen excess tank pressure, this in fact does happen, but I still have to cold start them normally.

Note: saws I am going to use stay inside, and out in the field cutting they stay in the shade as much as possible. I try to avoid letting them sit in direct sun. Sometimes you have no choice, but saws and fuel can in the shade as much as possible, bar oil can get sun.
 
Hey guys,
I bought a Stihl 250 less than a year ago and used it through the end of summer, fall, and a little this winter. When I tried to start it this summer, it wouldn't start. I took it to the dealer and they got it started by not engaging the choke at all. They told me that I was flooding it out using the choke because the temperatures were so high this year here in Texas. They said that I needed to remove the gas cap to release the fume build up from the fuel and just give it a couple of tugs to get it started without the choke engaged. My warranty is almost up and a question is really bothering me... Are they just putting a Band Aid on a bigger problem? It seems to have worked, but I am dealing with the guys at an ACE Hardware Store and really do not know how reliable their information is. I just do not want to continue to encounter this problem and find out I got the shaft. ALL help is appreciated.:msp_confused:

Hi Woodchuck,
Like you I would really like some advice.
I have 2 Stihl 250s, one is Easy Start and a 180. All 3 have that problem and they do it in any weather. Been back to the dealer with no results, they blame anything and everything except the saws. The 250 Easy Start is brand new, had the problem from day 1.

Here is what happened this weekend. Granted it was really hot here in Arkansas but I didn't get started until 5 PM and worked only in the shade. The saws are stored in a shed, not air-conditioned but ventilated. I let the pressure off the tanks, tightened the chains and the saws started without a problem. The new one cut down one 5" Red Cedar. When I started debranching the saw died and would not start again. I started the other 250 and worked for about 1/2 an hour until she also died.

Back to the Easy Start one. She would start at first but had no power could not cut with her and she would die when I tried to rev her or pick her up. The older 250 would fire but die before I could pull the throttle. They both acted like they were not getting fuel but the dealer insisted they were flooded. Both saws were clean when I started.

Finally got the new one started an hour later. She started normal and worked for a while, then I shut her off to move a bunch of branches and when I tried to start her again she wouldn't stay running.

Please guys any advice would be appreciated.
 
The 250's and 025's are notorious for flooding... But a decent little saw when you figure out how to deal with it.
That's probably not much help, but if you can't deal with it's inherent issues, you may want to trade it in on new 261 that would give you complete control of the carb settings.
 
The 250's and 025's are notorious for flooding... But a decent little saw when you figure out how to deal with it.
That's probably not much help, but if you can't deal with it's inherent issues, you may want to trade it in on new 261 that would give you complete control of the carb settings.

I had the same problem to start. It would flood. I removed the spark screen and opened up the exhaust a bit, adjusted the carb(without removing any tabs, either), and never had the problem again.
 
I had the same problem to start. It would flood. I removed the spark screen and opened up the exhaust a bit, adjusted the carb(without removing any tabs, either), and never had the problem again.

Thanks WYK,
I'll try that. They are good little saws when they run but I need to deal with the problem so I don't loose so much work time.
 
With the temps. being so high lately, I bet your boiling the gas in the tank. This could easily vapor lock the saws. Not getting any liquid fuel to the carb. just vapor. Doing a muffler mod. might let more of the heat out and help fix the problem.
 
Thanks for the input guys, it is really appreciated. I will try to adjust the carb and see what happens.
 
Thanks WYK,
I'll try that. They are good little saws when they run but I need to deal with the problem so I don't loose so much work time.

BTW, I opened up the muffler a LOT. I mean like a 1 1/4" hole. So I doubt you can open it too much simply drilling it a bit. And if you have to leave the screen in(I didn't) I would open the muffler at least an inch. I also removed the center louver on the screen cover. Even with the 1 1/4" hole I can still 4 stroke it without removing the tabs. So that carb puts out plenty of fuel. Also, do not pull it any more than 5-6 times with the full choke on. Even freezing it should start up off the choke after that. Some saying opening the fuel tank and re-closing it helps before trying to start it when cold.
 
I use a number of Stihl saws (but not an 025) and I choke all of them until they "pop" and they start on the next pull at the high idle setting. I live in central Georgia and it has been a very hot spring and summer here and we also get winters that are a lot colder than most would think (temps in the 20's) and I use the same technique all year round and never any issues. If the saw is not starting when following the instructions in the owner's manual, something isn't right.

It is very important to make sure you don't miss the "pop" because if you don't come off full choke then, it'll flood for sure.
 
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