fly wheel removal

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leave the nut on the end of shaft and hit it with hammer... put a piece of pipe to the side of flywheel and hit with hammer...
 
What are some methods for removing a flywheel when you don't have a flywheel puller?

If you have a dealer around, go give him a dollar or two
to pull it off for you. If you have the starter off and the
saw clean he mite do it for free.
 
I can't even get the fly wheel nut off. Looks like im gonna go to my work and use some real air tools. The saw is an old Olympic. Im tryin to get it running so i can sell it.
 
I can't even get the fly wheel nut off. Looks like im gonna go to my work and use some real air tools. The saw is an old Olympic. Im tryin to get it running so i can sell it.

Look at the threads and make sure they are not left handed.
 
Those are regular threads.Put a socket and ratchet on there, with a pipe attached to the end of the ratchet like a kelly bar. Apply even pressure and it should spin the nut free. Leave the nut on and put a screwdriver or two under the flywheel. Apply pressure and tap the stud/crank with a rawhide, brass, copper or other forgiving hammer. the flywheel should "Pop" off, this is why you leave the nut on.
 
I don't have one of those fancy plugs that stops the piston from moving. The clutch side, where the sprocket is, has left handed threads.
 
Also take a short piece of rope about 1/4" in diameter and insert it in the spark plug hole and it will act as a piston stop.Usually about 6 to 8 inches will do the trick.
 
Once the nut is off, if the flywheel is real tight, take a piece of angle iron longer than the flywheel is wide, drill three holes in it, 2 that that line up with the threaded holes on the outside of the flywheel, and one that lines up with the crank shaft. Add three bolts and a nut and you have a flywheel puller. Tighten it up and tap with soft blow hammer.
 
I don't have one of those fancy plugs that stops the piston from moving.

These come in the puch of free tools when you buy a new Stihl, along with a small screwdriver, torx bit right nagle screwdriver, small carb adjustment screwdriver and a pouch for carrying. Send me your address and ill send you a couple piston stops.
 
I got the pouch, but there was no plug for the cylinder...... Unless my dealer took it out so i couldn't do work to my own saw??????
 
I got the pouch, but there was no plug for the cylinder...... Unless my dealer took it out so i couldn't do work to my own saw??????

Go back and tell him that you KNOW they are supposed to come with one. it should be a black one. The white ones arent for the saws.
 
Thanks man. I will ask him for it when i go over to pick up my parts on weds. I can't believe that the old man, who runs the place i got to, would do that? Maybe he takes it out cuz some people won't know what to do with it.
 
leave the nut on the end of shaft and hit it with hammer... put a piece of pipe to the side of flywheel and hit with hammer...



A sure way to mess up your crank on a Stihl (unless it's an 020/200) or 009...

A couple are designed to come of with a tap (while supporting the flywheel) but the vast majorty are not.
 
Flywheel removal

I've used clothesline, about 6" pushed into the spark plug hole, to serve as a piston stop/block many times to keep the crankshaft from rotating when removing the flywheel nut. It's soft, cheap, and works well. I have an automotive harmonic balancer puller that I've used as a flywheel puller. I wouldn't think of hitting the crankshaft with anything, considering I have hands the size of hamhocks, and often don't know my own strength. Gene Gauss
 

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