Forester 04844 Chain Grinder

[Philbert]

General

Several years back I was challenged to evaluate some of the less expensive 'mini-grinders' for sharpening saw chain. These grinders typically have 4-1/8 or 4-1/4-inch diameter wheels; fixed head tilt angles; and fairly small (70 to 85 Watt) motors. While limited in angle adjustment and power, they are also compact, quiet, and relatively inexpensive, ranging from about $30 to $80, depending on the model, vendor, etc. They can be a good choice for touching up chains dulled from normal use, or for guys who just don't like to file, providing sharp, consistent cutters at standard angles.

At the lower end, these mini-grinders come with all plastic / composite construction, thin metal components, and a single grinding wheel. The Forester model 04844 comes with a sturdier feeling, cast aluminum base; a heavier gauge chain vise and chain stop; 1/8" and 3/16" grinding wheels; a wheel dressing brick; a plastic wheel / sharpening gauge; and even a spare set of brushes for the motor. It also comes with a fairly clear User's Manual.





This grinder is said to be identical to the Oregon 310-120, except for minor detailing and branding. It feels well finished, and requires only very minor assembly. As noted in the referenced thread, I also liked the Oregon model, but that one had a few glitches when first released. I assume that those have been addressed, so pricing could be a factor in choosing between the two.



Related threads:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-310-mini-grinder.283691/
Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Use

Overall, I like this grinder, especially when compared to others in this size and class. I like the heavier grade components used. I like the threaded; machine screws used in the chain vise, over the sheet metal type screws threaded into plastic, used on some other grinders.



Operation and adjustments are smooth, and easy. The chain clamping lever is repositionable, so you can adjust pressure and keep it out of the way. The vise angle scale, cast into the aluminum base, is easy to read. The grinding head lowers easily and returns easy. The wheels run true. The motor is very quiet in use.



Changing grinding wheels requires removal of 3, sheet metal type screws on the side cover: I would prefer threaded machine screws here too, to eliminate wear from changing wheels frequently for different chains. I keep a Phillips head screwdriver with the grinder for this purpose, although, I recognize that many users will only change wheels when worn out.



As on most of these small grinders, the power switch is located on the back, and is hard to see while grinding. The small, recessed, buttons are also hard to feel if wearing gloves. It's something you have to get used to. I was surprised to discover that it is equipped with a magnetic safety switch, which prevents unintended restarting if the power goes out. Turns out that a few of the other mini-grinders also have this, but not all of them.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Grinding Wheels

The grinder is supplied with 2, fine (100) grit, red/brown, wheels, similar to several other mini-grinders. I prefer the coarser (60 - 80) grit, pink wheels that Forester, Oregon, and Molemab also sell. To give this grinder a fair evaluation, I tried the supplied, fine grit wheel on a couple of 72DL, full 3/8 pitch, STIHL loops that just needed 'touch-up' sharpening. After the first loop I switched to a pink Forester wheel, purchased separately. Again, a BIG difference. The pink wheel ground faster, with less heating of the cutter, and left a comparably smooth finish on the teeth.

I definitely recommend upgrading to the coarser wheels.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/page-16 Post #307

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Depth Gauges?
The manual states that this grinder can be used with 1/4-inch wheels for adjusting depth gauges and includes instructions for shaping the wheel. But Forester does not offer this wheel: the only one I could find was the Oregon OR4125-14A, which sells for around $25. When I tried to mount this wheel there was not enough clearance under the side cover to run it. Forester admits that this was an error in the manual. I will try doing depth gauges by profiling a second 3/16" wheel for this purpose.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Some Fussy Stuff . . .

The User's Manual specifies 5-3/4-inch OD wheels instead of the 4-1/4" wheels supplied (a typo). In some cases 4-1/8" wheels are used with these grinders.

The grinder head angle is fixed at approximately 65°, which is a few degrees steeper than some of the other mini-grinders (60° to 62°). This is likely not an issue with most users.

The cast aluminum base has molded, hex-shaped recesses for securing mounting bolts, as illustrated in the manual, but they are sized for the heads of metric bolts: SAE bolt heads will either turn in these recesses, or be too large in diameter for the holes. So, I placed large washers over the holes for mounting.

None of these grinders have a washer between the plastic knob for chain vise rotation and the metal grinder base, which I think is important, so I added one.

I have never been able to remember the 'universal' 'ON' / 'OFF' symbols on the switches, and the position is not consistent among all of the grinders I have evaluated. This manual does not help, by using these same symbols to identify the symbols on the switch. So, I marked these clearly with a label maker to be sure.



The grinding wheels supplied have a paper label or blotter on one side only. There is a question about whether these are required. This is important to me, so, I will make my own out of cereal box cardboard and mount them with the wheels.

Philbert

 

[67L36Driver]

That Forester grinder is exactly what I replaced my ‘Nick’ one with. It also was a freebie. [emoji108]

We’ll see if it to will last eight or more years.

Hmmmmm.... I’ll be eighty four then.

 

[old guy]

That Forester grinder is exactly what I replaced my ‘Nick’ one with. It also was a freebie. [emoji108]

We’ll see if it to will last eight or more years.

Hmmmmm.... I’ll be eighty four then.

Yer gainin on me, I'll be 80 this coming Feb..

 

[old guy]

Good writeup on the grinder Philbert, it looks better than most of the cheapies. I would prefer 55° tilt tho.

 

[Philbert]

That Forester grinder is exactly what I replaced my ‘Nick’ one with. It also was a freebie. [emoji108]

We’ll see if it to will last eight or more years.

Hmmmmm.... I’ll be eighty four then.

You would be a good person to comment here. How do you like this Forester compared to your Nick The Grinder (of blessed memory)?

We’ll see if it to will last eight or more years.
Hmmmmm.... I’ll be eighty four then.

Mark it down for me in your will!

Philbert

 

[67L36Driver]

So far, I like the shorter handle on the ‘Nick’ chain vice.

Jury is still out on the chain stop. It’s wide and may interfere with the wheel (gather subsequent grinding scars).

 

[Philbert]

So far, I like the shorter handle on the ‘Nick’ chain vice.

Can 'fix' that with a fine tooth saw . . .

Notice any difference(s) in grinding performance? Does the heavier gauge vice hold the chains and cutters any better?

Jury is still out on the chain stop. It’s wide and may interfere with the wheel (gather subsequent grinding scars).

That is more similar to the heavier gauge ones on the full-sized Tecomec and Oregon grinders, except that it does not have the side-to-side adjustment on the shaft, to avoid the grinding wheel in tight situations. I did not have an issue trying it with some 'end-of-life' cutters (some shorter than those shown, below). I think that the smaller diameter wheels reduce the risk of contact. Worst case might be that the chain stop gets beveled slightly by the wheel?



Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Depth Gauges - Revisited

As noted, neither this grinder, nor the similar Oregon 310-120 one, accept 1/4" wheels for depth gauges ('rakers'). This was a disappointment, since grinders are a great way to set these at equal heights.

So, I tried profiling a 3/16" wheel for this use, by placing the dressing brick on the chain vise, as described in the Owner's Manual. This only increases the contact width by about 1/32", but creates a flat surface for setting depth gauge height.


It worked! I tried it on 3/8 low profile, .325 NK, and 3/8 chains, setting all of the left side depth gauges first, then re-checking height and setting all of the right side ones. There might be some chains, with wider depth gauges or low-kickback bumpers that require two passes, but it is 'do-able'.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

Philbert succeeded in convincing me to pull out of the attic my vintage Chicago Electric HF grinder that has been unused for three years, resting in oblivion. I was able to install a 3/16" thick wheel on it after adding some #8 spacer washers under the outside wheel cover. I also rebuilt the swivel stop that holds the chain in place using a short length of angle iron and added a spacer washer at the central pivot to firm it up. Then I added a small wedge under the return spring to give it more beef.

I have this grinder converted at this point to a dedicated depth gauge (raker) dropper by using my non-patented technique to angle-drop it by removing a small amount of the raker's trailing edge. Nice thing about this little beast is how quiet it runs. In a pinch, I will use it as a sharpener, but I like to tilt the vise (Oregon 511a) and this one also does not tilt. I have to wonder if the Forester 04844 is an upgrade to the old Chicago Electric that used to sell for about $30 at HF. Anyway, it's nice now and then to resurrect a tool from the dead that a late friend gave me. Thanks, Philbert, et al.

 

[Philbert]

.I was able to install a 3/16" thick wheel on it after adding some #8 spacer washers under the outside wheel cover. I also rebuilt the swivel stop that holds the chain in place using a short length of angle iron and added a spacer washer at the central pivot to firm it up. Then I added a small wedge under the return spring to give it more beef.

Photos! We need detailed photos!

Maybe post in the HF Grinder thread for others interested in doing the same?
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/
Plus, what kind of wheel?

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

I have to wonder if the Forester 04844 is an upgrade to the old Chicago Electric that used to sell for about $30 at HF.

It is definitely an ‘upgrade’ in that it is a step up, though, at about twice the price. I went through about 11 of these ‘mini-grinders’, due to the ‘HF Grinder Thread’ I started (!), and this one is much better, for the reasons noted in earlier posts, above.

I have actually been posting my other mini-grinders on local CL, and looking at getting a second one of these. It was helpful to have them for side-by-side comparison, but decided that I don’t need to run a museum, and these are the ones I prefer to use, given the option. A second one will reduce the need to swap wheels.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

OK, here it is. The first Pic shows the #8 flat washer spacers. #6 washers might also work. That's all it needs to then spin without the guard rubbing a 3/16" thick x 4-1/8" dia. Molemab grinding wheel:
The second and third pics show the angle iron strip I used to replace its lousy cutter stop that fell apart. I used a lock nut on the outside, and a regular nut and bushing between the angle iron and the holder. It's working fine. In the third Pic you can see at top center the triangular shim I used to offset the spring. That gives it a little more vertical push. The chain link actually sits dead flat, not angled up as the Pic shows. I slightly rounded off the edge of the angle iron that contacts the cutter. So far so good. Thanks for looking.