forrd 300 6 starting problem

[wahlturfcare]

i recently rebuilt my carb for my 300 6 and cant get the chipper to start at all now just crank. I checked and am getting fuel and spark. Before i rebuilt it it would start and run for a a minute or so and die and not start back up.
Sometimes i do have to push the soleniod to get it to crank sometimes and the saftey switch button was baypassed before. Could that be causing everything or is it something else?

 

[Rookie1]

Sounds like something else other than the carb. Does it have some safetyswitch for oil pressure or other. Can you pour some gas down carb and get it to run?

 

[TDunk]

Could be a bunch of things. First i'd check and make sure the plugs are dry and not flooded, then i'd try some starting fluid to see if you can get it to run on that. If it doesn't run, then you have a spark/ignition prob. If it does run, then you have a fuel prob.

 

[wahlturfcare]

when i got it, the safety switch was bypassed to make it run like a normal vehicle since the push button was bad. could it be in this area causing it run die before nd not start back up and not start at all now?

 

[Blakesmaster]

when i got it, the safety switch was bypassed to make it run like a normal vehicle since the push button was bad. could it be in this area causing it run die before nd not start back up and not start at all now?

I'm not a mechanic but the wiring in my old chuck n' duck was a cobbled together mess as I'm sure a lot of them are. My suggestion is to rip all the wiring out, and start over. That's what we did and now it works some of the time.

 

[Slvrmple72]

Blakes, I am thinking about rewiring mine since it keeps draining the battery slowly when it sits. Sheesh! It's always something!

 

[Blakesmaster]

Blakes, I am thinking about rewiring mine since it keeps draining the battery slowly when it sits. Sheesh! It's always something!

Ha! Mine did that too. We just unhooked the terminals till we figured that out. I hate that old machine but it usually gets the job done.

 

[Slvrmple72]

When she is working I love her when she is not working I hate her! Well, at least she is paid for!

View attachment 85717

 

[Blakesmaster]

Heh.

Nice looking machine. I'll be the first to admit I got spoilt after too many years with a BC1800 to like my chuck n' duck even if she is running. You have that extension welded on at the infeed chute? We have a similar modification except we made the mouth level.

 

[Slvrmple72]

Got her that way. I hear ya, but you have the right idea just starting out let's hope 09 is better than expected!

 

[wahlturfcare]

i checked the chipper out again yesterday and found that the coil side wire and ignition wires that go to the safety switch were by passed and hooked together since the button on the safety switch went bad.
I still dont have any spark at all now, but i got fuel though and the plugs are not fould.

There is a starter soleniod on the shroud that some times i have to smack to get the motor to crank, could this cause it or would it be the coil?

 

[TDunk]

Your going to want to get a new solenoid but that's not the cause of your problem. If the safety switch is by-passed then it should be a straight shot from the ignition switch to the coil. There should only be juice to the coil when the ignition is in the "on" position. On mine, the one side of the coil goes to the ignition and the other side goes to the distributor and the tach. Use a test light to make sure your not loosing juice to the coil, shake the wires too. If you have juice, put a spark plug on the coil wire and set the plug against the block and see if it sparks. DON"T TOUCH IT WHILE YOU CRANK! If it sparks your coil it ok, if not the coil is probably junk. If there's spark, the points and condensor inside the dist. are probably junk. Its hard to diagnose over the computer, but that's where i'd start. Your best bet is to go to NAPA and buy some wire, wire connectors and a new ignition switch and start from scratch.

 

[wahlturfcare]

i checked to see if i have power at the coil on both terminals with ignition on and got nothing. I also checked the batt. terminal on the switch and still had nothing. Think the switch could be the cause?

By the way, mine is a electronic ignition and not points.

 

[TDunk]

If you didn't have any power to the switch, then the wire from the bat. to the switch is probably bad, or the connection where the wire splices in to get juice from the Bat. (should be right on the pos. post of the battery or on the starter relay). The switch still could be bad. One thing i found when i was doing wireing on my chipper was to make sure i had the neg. end of the test light right on the battery to make sure i had a good ground.

 

[limbwalker54]

Check the Duraspark II ignition module. They go bad at the most inopportune times....like when you fix something else. Could have been the problem all along. Warm up, dies. Then hard to start. Runs for a little. Then never starts again..etc....all signs of the "wonderful" Duraspark module going bad. Its in the circuit with the coil so it wont' have power unless the module is good...sometimes...

I believe mine was 37.50, its worth a shot. DO NOT disconnect a wire from a plug on these to check spark, it will blow the module. Always use an in line spark test device.

 

[wahlturfcare]

i found that if i do move the relay on the shroud, and once it cranks i do get power at my switch.all the wires on the relay are tight, could t be a ground issue to make me have to grab the wire or shake the shroud?

 

[TDunk]

It could be a ground problem. I have my relay mounted right to the block. Better ground. Limbwalkers right in the fact that it could be your TFI module (if it has one) could be bad, BUT they usually go bad it's after it's been running for a while and then boom, you just loose your spark. After they cool down it'll fire back up. With you not getting power to the ignition switch until after you start cranking leads me to think that you still have a safety switch still hooked up. Probably the oil pressure switch.

 

[wahlturfcare]

the tfi module would be on the distributor right? If so, mine doesnt have one. If it is the oil, how should i bypass it? I do know the temp gauge is unhooked.

 

[TDunk]

Some were mounted right on the dist., others were mounted elsewhere to get away from the engine heat. The easiest way to bypass it is run a wire right from the battery to the ignition switch (should have "bat" on the ignition switch so you get the right terminal)

 

[fedots]

coil should be HOT

when ignition switch is in the on position the coil should have power on one lug. trace your wire from switch to coil to make sure it is a good connection.