Front Lawn Logging

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RandyMac said:
Mornin' all.
That big old pine was fun, and a fair amount of prep work. I had little room to play with, lots of breakable stuff close to the layout. I needed to not only be accurate, but control how the tree fell, and what the butt did going off the stump. It's tough to see in this crappy old scanned in photo, I did what little I could do with the photo editor. Anyway, I used a step cut, something similar to what I used in my redwood falling days. I wanted the tree to go over slow and easy, contacting the stump only when it was nearly horizontal. Instead of just two cuts for the undercut, I did four. A downward angle for the first cut, dropped down a foot or so, made a level cut, bored in to remove the block, then put in a "snipe" in the direction of fall. It fell without twisting, and jumped about three feet from the stump. I had minor nightmares about the butt rolling over and tagging the chimney. As for the holding wood, there was an even 3 inch strip for the first 2/3s, and a rectangular block of about 8 inches thick was left on the chimney side. I managed not to hit anything with the tree, but I hit a waterline while driving my sighting stake in.




:laugh: :laugh: Hit the waterline while driving in the sighting stake, huh... Things could have been much worse... Nice job on bringing her down right ;)

I've never notched a tree like this. I'll have to try it sometime when I really need something to go this nicely...
 
vids

Been watching some of your vids on u-tube. I posted your 372 GL and Jokers 372 vids on the prince of saws thread. You got me on that J 372 vid. Had me rolling LOL, Your 372 GL scoots too. Glad to have your sense of humor around here.
 
Sorry I haven't kept up with the posts, but the front and back lawn loggin has kept me busy. 25 trees on 1.5 acres! 2000ft. veneer and 1500 ft sawlogs.
Blocked the tops for the owner. One tank of fuel on a modified 372 = 1/2 cord with sharp chain. Did 6 tanks, one filing= 3 cords. Rule of thumb: 1000$ isn't enough to cut and split 6 full cords alone with an axe unless you're a woodtick with no overhead. Or your 35 and can do 3 cords in a day. I can block a cord/hr. but I can't split a cord an hr. unless I got a 4 way splitter with an auto cycle valve and someone feeding me the blocks.
John
 
Randy, thank you. Fish hunt....d I just use humboldts, all I ever see in the bush, and I have seen more than I could ever remember, hundreds of thousands at least.
 
clearance said:
Fish hunt....d I just use humboldts, all I ever see in the bush, and I have seen more than I could ever remember, hundreds of thousands at least.

Which is what I figured. I know you do this for a living. The first block face like this I was was done by an old (85 year old!) man who used to fall professionally, working a fine Doug fir...just for firewood. I asked him why not a Humboldt, and his answer was what I gave in the post above. It's just the way he always did them. Here's the stump. He showed me how to make the face, and let me make the back cut. Tree was probably 32" dbh.

attachment.php
 
Gypo Logger said:
Sorry I haven't kept up with the posts, but the front and back lawn loggin has kept me busy. 25 trees on 1.5 acres! 2000ft. veneer and 1500 ft sawlogs.
Blocked the tops for the owner. One tank of fuel on a modified 372 = 1/2 cord with sharp chain. Did 6 tanks, one filing= 3 cords. Rule of thumb: 1000$ isn't enough to cut and split 6 full cords alone with an axe unless you're a woodtick with no overhead. Or your 35 and can do 3 cords in a day. I can block a cord/hr. but I can't split a cord an hr. unless I got a 4 way splitter with an auto cycle valve and someone feeding me the blocks.
John
Nice stright wood there Gypo.
What do you cut grade at 8'6" or 10'6"?
They have some good size bells on them. Must be some loose soil up there.
I can do two full cords a day delivered at 43 years old split with a maul and I'm wooped.
 
Dennis Cahoon said:
Humboldts.....cut thousands of them myself.

chesterpic905011.jpg
Dennis, how come you took a dump on the stump and then signed it? Were you marking your territory?
Also, it looks like a clearcurt haircut with a little left on the sides
Hahahaha
Manual, sawlogs I cut to 8' 6' or 10'6". Veneer I cut, 8' 6", 9' 3" and 10' 3"
That one on the lawn turned out to be a sawlog because it had too much heartwood.
The area I'm in has alot of cherry, almost as though I were in Kane Pennsylvania. I hope to get 100 acres of it and will need to hire some help.
:rock:
John
 
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Thought that was cherry in that pile.
Made me remember a tree I dropped last winter for this years wood.
Just cut in up yesterday. I like the smell of cherry in the fireplace.
The bell on top is about the size around here.
Yea I'll say you found a bonanza up there.
 
RandyMac, questions about the redwood block notch. How or why would it perform different from an open face notch [90* plus] with a snipe? How tall is the vertical, bored cut of the notch? If the tree has a spiral grain in the stump area would'nt that affect the fall? Thank you.
 
John Ellison said:
RandyMac, questions about the redwood block notch. How or why would it perform different from an open face notch [90* plus] with a snipe? How tall is the vertical, bored cut of the notch? If the tree has a spiral grain in the stump area would'nt that affect the fall? Thank you.

The Redwood block notch or Old Growth style Humboldt allows the holding wood to fold with the tree instead of pulling it from the log. The snipe can be gunned for several behavioral characteristics, one of which is allowing the butt of the tree to land first which is desirable in bigger Redwood and some other species like Western Red Cedar. In second growth you can gun the snipe to "pop" the tree off the stump which is desirable in Ponderosa pine. Usually you open the gap about an inch and a half for every foot in diameter. The species I've used this cut in I haven't encountered "spiral grain", but I'm sure it's out there.
 

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