Fuel/Oil mix for larger Huskys

[bwalker]

Oil's not the same as it was "back then". Additives are added now that weren't even thought of back then.

Oh ya? List them then....

I'd list the research but you probably wouldn't believe me.

By all means,lets see it.

Identical to the old 30 wt that was used?

I was reffering to mix oils form the 70's. 30 wt was last speced in the 50's, wasnt it?

I wholeheartedly agree that today`s oils are far superior to oils from as recently as ten years ago. This is the reason that I can run 32:1 with no fouling or coking.

Up untill about 98 most two cycle air cooled oils where the same formulations that where used in the 70's. With the rise of EPA phase requirments and Jaso and iso certifcations some oils where reformulated imediatly, while Othere where not untill just recently.
From a formulation standpoint one of the things that has changed between the pre 98 oils and the stuff we have today is the replacement of heavy petrol bright stock with a compound called polyisobutene. PIB reduces smoke and deposits by a large degree. As far as the additives go your still dealing with zinc as a antiwear and calcium/magnesium sulfanates as detergents, just like what was used int he 70's. There are some oils that have shave differant additives(M2X2T being one), but all the factory oils are formulated like this with the exception of stihl orange bottle. Last time I checked it was still a straight mineral based using petrol bright stock.

 

[jp hallman]

JP, what is your interest in what ratio anyone runs, or is it simply the debate that you are enjoying?

You got it! I love stirring up the stuff.

 

[jp hallman]

Oh ya? List them then....

By all means,lets see it.



I was reffering to mix oils form the 70's. 30 wt was last speced in the 50's, wasnt it?

Up untill about 98 most two cycle air cooled oils where the same formulations that where used in the 70's. With the rise of EPA phase requirments and Jaso and iso certifcations some oils where reformulated imediatly, while Othere where not untill just recently.
From a formulation standpoint one of the things that has changed between the pre 98 oils and the stuff we have today is the replacement of heavy petrol bright stock with a compound called polyisobutene. PIB reduces smoke and deposits by a large degree. As far as the additives go your still dealing with zinc as a antiwear and calcium/magnesium sulfanates as detergents, just like what was used int he 70's. There are some oils that have shave differant additives(M2X2T being one), but all the factory oils are formulated like this with the exception of stihl orange bottle. Last time I checked it was still a straight mineral based using petrol bright stock.

You're close, but still aways off. Find the facts for yourself, they'll mean more to you if you have the time invested. Besides, if I listed them you could then accuse me of "making it up".

 

[KarlP]

The Husky manual for the 385 says to use 1:32 fuel/oil for saws over 80cc (1:50 for saws less than 80cc).

Husqvarna ignored my first two requests to explain why some manuals said 32:1 and some said 50:1. I finally trapped them by asking a simple question and then followed up with the real question I wanted answered.

Me: "What fuel to oil mix ratio to you recommend for the longest engine life of a Husqvarna 385xp used for chainsaw milling?"

Them: "Thank you for contacting Husqvarna. The best fuel/oil mix will be the 50:1 ratio using quality 2 cycle oil that is designed for chainsaws, and use fresh fuel, 89-93 octane for best performance."

Me: "In that case I'm curious if you could tell me why one version of the US 385xp manuals (http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS2004/HOUS2004_1140238-95.pdf) as well as all of the manuals for New Zealand, Sweden, and many other countries recommend 33:1 for Husqvarna saws over 80cc? I assumed it was for longer engine life."

Them: "The different ratio can be attributed to different fuel quality in the countries that you listed. The owners manuals for all Husqvarna products in the US call for a 50:1 fuel ratio."

 

[Stu in Tokyo]

Funny, don't matter what it is, if it is motorcycles it's tires, if it is woodworking it is drum sanders, or tablesaws, but it seems with chainsaws it is oil

I don't have much to add, except a tidbit from racing 2-smoke motorcycles, if you run 32:1 you have to set your carb richer than if you run 50:1, the reason is that more oil in a mix means less gasoline.

Just something to think about.

Cheers!

 

[bikepilot]

For a given engine type and useage, what really matters is what the oil your using is designed to be mixed at.

For example, in my 50hp single cylinder, liqued cooled, two stroke MX bike, I can run 32:1 mobile 1 MX2T, 32:1 yamalube 2R, 32:1 Honda HP2, 50:1 Bell Ray MC1, or 70:1 for Amsoil ?? and have the same amount of lubrication. Take the MC1 and compare it to the MX2T and you'll find its much thicker.

For convience I run the left over's from the race bike in all my lawn equipment/saws etc. Even the 4-stroke's in the summer. I won't use pre-mix older than a week in the bike, but the much lower tuned equipment doesn't seem to mind if the fuel is a couple weeks old. Thus, I have "free" pre-mix fuel for my stuff (free, as in already sunk costs). I figure if its enough lubrication for the MX motors it will be good for a 5 or 6hp chainsaw. Only difference to worry about is the higher temps the air cooled saws run vs the liqued cooled bikes. But being as the oils I run are about the best you can buy, I can't see there being better options. RPM's are even similar - my wife's KX105 makes 27hp at just over 13k rpm. Of course the larger engines, like my CR250R make their power a bit lower, ~8500-9000rpm IIRC.

Just my 2c

 

[bwalker]

yamalube 2R, 32:1 Honda HP2, 50:1 Bell Ray MC1, or 70:1 for Amsoil ?? and have the same amount of lubrication. Take the MC1 and compare it to the MX2T and you'll find its much thicker.

Oil viscosity and has nothing to do with mix ratio for the most part. The thick oils almost assure that they will not meet the highest current performance specs. Newer technology base oils my start out thinner, but dont lose viscosity as fast as a old school oils like MC1.

 

[KASH]

In winter weather I mix my chainsaw fuel around 40-1 for all my newer saws 1963 and up older saws 25-1. In hot weather i add more to 25-1 and 16-1. I found out cutting 12 in high grass in hot weather with a 2 cycle LAWNBOY mower at 32-1 it would start to get tight ready to sieze increasing to 16-1 cured the problem. Not very scientific but my 2cents.

 

[bwalker]

You're close, but still aways off. Find the facts for yourself, they'll mean more to you if you have the time invested. Besides, if I listed them you could then accuse me of "making it up".

Thats what I thought.....