Full chisel oregon chain.

[doc874]

I just bought 2-20 inch oregon chains off e-bay these chains are new and are full chisel i purchased a 20 inch bar earlier for my P28 i was wondering what the difference in semi and full chisel for performance. Thanks.

Doc

 

[BostonBull]

Semi will cut better in dirty wood. It stays sharper longer in not so great conditions.

Full is a much faster cutting chain and will easily out cut semi in clean wood. The downside is it dulls very easily in any sort of dirty wood.

 

[pbtree]

Semi will cut better in dirty wood. It stays sharper longer in not so great conditions.

Full is a much faster cutting chain and will easily out cut semi in clean wood. The downside is it dulls very easily in any sort of dirty wood.

What he said...

 

[Oregon Engineer]

I agree with the previous posts!

One other issue is kickback potential could be higher for the chisel chains.

Most chisel chains are made for professionals who keep the bar tip out of the dirt and out of adjacent trees or logs. When they bore nose first into a tree there is a specific procedure they use to keep kickback risk to a minimum. If you already know and understand this, great! Happy cutting! If not, please speak up.

 

[doc874]

I agree with the previous posts!

One other issue is kickback potential could be higher for the chisel chains.

Most chisel chains are made for professionals who keep the bar tip out of the dirt and out of adjacent trees or logs. When they bore nose first into a tree there is a specific procedure they use to keep kickback risk to a minimum. If you already know and understand this, great! Happy cutting! If not, please speak up.

Actually, no i don't know the procedure when going into a tree nose first, i do not have any problem keeping a saw out of the dirt other trees or wood though, i grew-up with a mac 10-10 and have cut many cords of fire wood on and off a saw-horse and have felled many in the woods, so, i'm not totally inexperienced but your never to old to learn so pls explain the procedure to reduce kick-back and possible serious injury or death. We had a 76 or 86 year old man recently die when a saw kicked back and caught him on the neck. OUCH!!!!!

 

[Oregon Engineer]

The OREGON website has information on kickback under the technical and safety tab. The kickback page shows a guy cutting on the upper half of the bar nose (12 o'clock to the 3 o'clock postion when the bar is horizontal). This is the area most likely to result in a kickback reaction.

To bore into the wood, an operator never starts the boring cut with the upper half of the bar nose. Instead the bar is held at an angle to the log so the lower half (4 to 6 o'clock position) of the nose starts the boring cut, best to start at the 4:30 position.

Boring
can be dangerous. If proper procedures aren’t followed, boring can cause
severe kickback.
Points to Remember:
• Make sure of firm footing.
• Keep both hands on the saw.
• Twist the bar slightly when the cut is started.
• Hold the saw close to your body, but still to one side.
• Don’t bore unnecessarily.

Start the cut with the bottom of the bar nose, like the top bar in the picture. Once the full nose and 4 or more inches are in the log then you can angle the bar so it cuts more at the 3:30 position. Be careful when you resume a boring cut not to contact the top of the bar nose into the log.

There is a good handbook for chain saw use at:
http://www.worksafebc.com/publicati...ation/by_topic/assets/pdf/fallers_buckers.pdf

Page 84 shows the boring like the picture above, but I would not suggest you try cutting into the log like the lower bar in the picture. That technique is for a very experienced logger.

 

[SawTroll]

.....
• Hold the saw close to your body, but still to one side.
.......

Quite difficult when you are felling a standing tree.....

 

[Oregon_Rob]

Don’t let them scare you off. It’s not that hard to bore correctly and can come in handy for felling and bucking.

 

[SawTroll]

I am not scared off at all, and do it when it is relevant - mostly when needing to make the back cut from both sides, or to get wedges into the "weak" side of side leaners.

 

[bugfart]

Too late
I will never allow the tip of my bar to touch anything but air. I may take it to the next level and get a Bug-proof tip for it. I can see now that is my destiny.
If you are not a pro follow me. Run away!

I might make a Homelite generator to power a circular saw first. I am not kidding. Bring a generator and the proper woodworking tool before playing with the tip of a chainsaw. Bring a cordless drill and pound in dowel rods if you have to but do not attempt boring with a chainsaw.

If you do this currently, find a better way.

 

[doc874]

Thanks to all especially Oregon engineer for the info, they say, a pic is worth a thousand words and your pics and explanation are great, i think i will try and stay away from having to do any nose type entries as i can see by the pic's the potential for injury is greater. This is a great site and the information here is invaluable, whether, your an experienced arborist or novice, i am always learning something from the wealth of knowledge and experience here. ( Nothing is as good nor peaceful as gathering around a fire on a cold night with a shot of Capt'n -morgan and the sounds and smell of a good wood fire.)