Full skip square chisel 3/8 on 33cc 14" saw?

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777funk

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I have a muffler modded 33cc saw that cuts fast even with the Pico (low profile) 3/8 52 link chain that it's designed for.

What would happen if I were to use regular 3/8 chain (not Pico) and to compensate for the additional grab and chip size, I went to a full skip? It's probably got 15 to 20% more power than stock form as it sits now. Please don't call me too crazy for actually liking this junk saw... Lol. I like the weight and balance for small firewood and limbing. Anything say 12" and under, it's a decent little cutter. But... Faster is better right!
 
Have you tried pico full chisel skip yet?
Not yet. I like the idea of more aggressive taller teeth though which is why I'd like to get away from Pico if possible. I figured they use mild chain on these at least partially due to homeowners with little saw experience.
 
If the saw has plenty of power in the cut, full comp will cut just as fast if not faster than skip. I like skip for easier sharpening but when running a saw that has plenty of balls for the B&C application, I don't like it as much IE... 16" B&C full skip semi-chisel on my Echo CS400. Doesn't really cut any faster limbing, but it does free a little power up RPM for power in the fully buried leaned on cuts with the bucking spikes.

Cuts that I'd probably rather make with a bigger saw in the first place. I prefer the full comp for limbing also because its smoother. In the end, I end up skipping over the CS400 class, and use a top handle or a big saw.

Your mileage may vary, but perhaps bucking spikes for more engagement in bigger cuts if you have power to spare, or 3/8 pico full comp will help you use all that power in the cut and full comp will help you use chain speed and smoothness when limbing.
 
I have a muffler modded 33cc saw that cuts fast even with the Pico (low profile) 3/8 52 link chain that it's designed for.

What would happen if I were to use regular 3/8 chain (not Pico) and to compensate for the additional grab and chip size, I went to a full skip? It's probably got 15 to 20% more power than stock form as it sits now. Please don't call me too crazy for actually liking this junk saw... Lol. I like the weight and balance for small firewood and limbing. Anything say 12" and under, it's a decent little cutter. But... Faster is better right!

Why not just file the rakers down? Pretty simple.

If you file too far and the saw bogs, next few sharpenings don't touch the rakers.

Pretty simple Eh?
 
Dunno- you go to all the trouble to butcher up some kind of bar/chain/drive sprocket botch up to run standard 3/8 on a powerhead designed for 3/8LP........ what happens to those little nylon chain buffers? Is there enough clearance on the plastics internally between oiler and sprocket cover plate to run the bigger chain?

Go full hawg and put .404 on it. :pingpong:
 
Mad Professor, I suppose filing the rakers down does get me bigger chips. I always do that on this saw. You can really knock em down before you get too much vibration on this little toy saw.

I'd still like to try 3/8 skip chain (not pico). Looks like the big challenge is getting a sprocket and bar. That may make it impossible (or should I say impractical).
 
I love it how impressed the op is with his 33cc saw! Some little saws feel torquey and more capable than their size but...you can chop & change chain until the sun goes down (I've done near every stupid chain combo) & then you will realise most OEM's fit/match the best chain type to the saw. There are some exceptions but going up more than 1 chain size i.e Picco to full size 3/8 is rarely a good idea. The kerf gets wider and makes the little power youyou have less effective. Give it a go, I ran .325 on my 200t for a while but the OEMs generally do know what works best on their saws. Spending time learning the art of tuning chain is probably better time spent.
 
I wouldn't say I'm impressed with the saw. I did say I like it. For years I'd head into the woods for firewood with it vs my 026 with .325 chain because it burned less gas, saved wear on my more expensive saw, and was lighter. I think the Stihl 026 cuts a little faster, but not by a long shot. My 038 has 3/8 and it does cut noticeably faster than either saw. I figured the small saw wouldn't pull regular 3/8 well which is why I figured... hey maybe skip.

MFGs are often as worried about protecting the operator (and more importantly their legal dept) as they are optimal use. They chain they shipped with the saw was trash and designed for low kickback. My thought of trying a real 3/8 chain may not work, but figured someone here has tried it which is why I ask.
 
Mad Professor, I suppose filing the rakers down does get me bigger chips. I always do that on this saw. You can really knock em down before you get too much vibration on this little toy saw.

I'd still like to try 3/8 skip chain (not pico). Looks like the big challenge is getting a sprocket and bar. That may make it impossible (or should I say impractical).

You are worried about filing 3/8LP rakers down because of the vibration- but want to replace it with standard 3/8 skip tooth chain? :crazy2:
Have you ever tried one of the 3/8LP chains that is not designed for low kick back? Has the look but not the size of a standard 3/8 chain- you can even get them in a full chisel configuration.
 
You are worried about filing 3/8LP rakers down because of the vibration- but want to replace it with standard 3/8 skip tooth chain? :crazy2:
Have you ever tried one of the 3/8LP chains that is not designed for low kick back? Has the look but not the size of a standard 3/8 chain- you can even get them in a full chisel configuration.

Mad Professor, I suppose filing the rakers down does get me bigger chips. I always do that on this saw. You can really knock em down before you get too much vibration on this little toy saw.
...

I don't think I said I was worried about it. I said I always file the rakers down on this saw. Way down with an angle grinder. The additional vibration is hardly noticeable since it's such a small saw.

And yes sir, I have tried the most aggressive chain available from Oregon and Carlton. Works just fine... better than the stock chain by a long shot. It's not that there's a problem with what it does now considering what it is (33cc muffler modded saw). I figured I'd try 3/8" standard (instead of pico) skip chain if it was possible to get it on there.
 
If you go to a "real" saw shop, they will likely have a roll of full chisel 3/8 pico chain on hand and can make a loop for your saw.
The low kickback Stihl RS3 "safety" chain is a sluggish cutter compared to a "yellow" RS chain.
 
Mad Professor, I suppose filing the rakers down does get me bigger chips. I always do that on this saw. You can really knock em down before you get too much vibration on this little toy saw.

I'd still like to try 3/8 skip chain (not pico). Looks like the big challenge is getting a sprocket and bar. That may make it impossible (or should I say impractical).

3/8 on a 33cc saw is just plain stupid.

A 50cc saw will cut best with a 0.325'

Get the best 3/8 picco chisel chain you can find and lower the rakers to what the saw will take.
 
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