Getting a Stihl 290 Farm Boss to live up to expectations

[Ryguy00]

Hey all,

This is my first post. Been lurking and reading for a while. I see some pretty solid advice given here so I decided to join and post what's going on to get a little feedback.

First of all, as the title implies, I've got a 290 that I'm slightly unimpressed with. It's a great saw, don't get me wrong, but I expected more power. I'm a homeowner who uses a saw maybe a half dozen times a year. A weekend here, a few hours there.... You get the idea. Not a heavy user. Most of the wood I'm cutting is cherry, oak, and locust. Running an 18" bar and cutting an average of around 8" - 14" diameter wood.

The saw runs great, no problems idling or starting, very smooth, etc, but if I'm in a cut and lift up on the handle which pushes down on the bar (I think you guys refer to that as pushing, please forgive my lack of terminology knowledge), anyway, when I try to push/pull to make the saw cut faster, it bogs down. Now, I'm talking MAYBE 5-8 lbs of pressure here, nothing that I'd consider overkill, but I honestly don't really know. This is really the only time it'll bog down. Maybe I shouldn't be putting any pressure at all on it and letting the chain do the work. I'll leave that up to the experts here.

Now in all honesty, I'm not in any particular hurry. I've got all day. My real issue here is that my younger brother has a Stihl 250 with a 16" bar, running Stihl chain that he sharpens with a harbor freight dremel type sharpener, and his saw is cutting noticeably faster than mine. Did I mention he's younger? This just will not do!

So, OPERATION UPGRADE SAW has commenced! I've seen videos on youtube of guys running these saws with 25" bars and having no problems. I've seen other videos of a 039 named "Shredder II" with a muffler mod, air box mod, tuned carb, and running a 28" bar with a full skip square chisel chain. Yeah, that one's a beast. I don't need anything that drastic, but as I've mentioned, I've been lurking and reading here for a little while. I've come to a couple conclusions:

My saw is suffocating thanks to the EPA and is in dire need of a muffler mod and carb adjustment to allow it to breathe.

My "sharp" chain actually really isn't. Timberline sharpener and raker gauge are on their way.

I'm hesitant to modify the air box/ air filter cover. I don't like the idea of allowing more crap in to plug up the filter.

So give it to me straight. Am I on the right path or barking up the wrong tree?

A bigger saw is not an option. I have access to an 056 with a 25" bar anytime I like, but I don't really have any wood big enough to need it, plus, it's a heavy SOB.

 

[svk]

First off, welcome to the site.

If a 250 is cutting significantly faster that a 290 one would be led to believe that you have a dull chain, an out of tune saw, or both. On paper you have a larger saw with a somewhat significant .8 HP advantage.

The guys on here can talk you through the basics to do a muffler mod, timing advance, and retune. Along with a good chisel or square ground chisel chain you should be leaving little bro in the dust.

But be careful, this saw stuff is addicting. Consider yourself warned

 

[Ryguy00]

First off, welcome to the site.

If a 250 is cutting significantly faster that a 290 one would be led to believe that you have a dull chain, an out of tune saw, or both. On paper you have a larger saw with a somewhat significant .8 HP advantage.

The guys on here can talk you through the basics to do a muffler mod, timing advance, and retune. Along with a good chisel or square ground chisel chain you should be leaving little bro in the dust.

But be careful, this saw stuff is addicting. Consider yourself warned

Thanks! I've watched quite a few videos on muffler mods and carb tunes but I'll wait a little longer to see what the guys here say. They might have some tricks I don't know about.

As far as chain goes, I went to a local saw shop a while back and wanted a full skip chain with no rakers because that's what the internet said was fastest and that's what I wanted. Obviously, I didn't know any better. The shop owner talked me out of it (knowing what saw I have and the bar length) and sold me something different. To be honest, I'm not sure what it is. I think it's a full chisel but I don't really know one from another. It's not a skip and it does have rakers. It's not a square grind. Beyond that, I'm a little lost.

Addicting? You mean I shouldn't have watched all those hot saw videos? Hey, anyone got a supercharged V10 they wanna part with?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I fixed mine by putting a 390 kit in it, seems to make a big difference plus of course the muffler mod and carb adjustment. A sharp chain helps too. I didn't do the ignition re-time, didn't think it was needed plus I don't want the extra pressure on that plastic starter assembly.

 

[Ryguy00]

I fixed mine by putting a 390 kit in it, seems to make a big difference plus of course the muffler mod and carb adjustment. A sharp chain helps too.

I'd like to hear a little more about this. I'm not opposed to the idea of the jug swap and rejetting the carb, however, I've gotta keep practicality vs budget in mind. I don't really "need" a lot more power. I'm ok with spending a few dollars to get more anyway, but I don't want to spend a fortune just to make my brothers saw look bad when no matter what I do, Dad can get out his 056 and leave me in the dust.

I don't know for sure what that 390 kit costs, but I seem to remember reading it's almost the cost of a whole new saw.

Can you offer any more insight?

 

[svk]

Thanks! I've watched quite a few videos on muffler mods and carb tunes but I'll wait a little longer to see what the guys here say. They might have some tricks I don't know about.

As far as chain goes, I went to a local saw shop a while back and wanted a full skip chain with no rakers because that's what the internet said was fastest and that's what I wanted. Obviously, I didn't know any better. The shop owner talked me out of it (knowing what saw I have and the bar length) and sold me something different. To be honest, I'm not sure what it is. I think it's a full chisel but I don't really know one from another. It's not a skip and it does have rakers. It's not a square grind. Beyond that, I'm a little lost.

Addicting? You mean I shouldn't have watched all those hot saw videos? Hey, anyone got a supercharged V10 they wanna part with?

You do not want a full skip chain on an 18" bar!!! Skip chains are only for long bars and are definitely not faster.

Take a close up picture of the chain and post it up. Also if you can take a video of your saw cutting wood we can tell how well it is tuned. I just set my phone up on log and wedge it up a pair of gloves a few feet away from the log I'm cutting, works good enough.

 

[Ryguy00]

You do not want a full skip chain on an 18" bar!!! Skip chains are only for long bars and are definitely not faster.

Take a close up picture of the chain and post it up. Also if you can take a video of your saw cutting wood we can tell how well it is tuned. I just set my phone up on log and wedge it up a pair of gloves a few feet away from the log I'm cutting, works good enough.

I fully realize now that I want nothing to do with a skip chain. At least, not for this saw. See! I told you I've been learning! Pics coming in a few min but video will have to wait. I live in the city and own property in the country where I will eventually be building a house. Saw is here but wood is there.

 

[svk]

I guess I should have clarified. Not sure if you can get away with running it at your house but we actually need to hear it run at wide open throttle for several seconds with no load to diagnose the tune. Are you able to do that?

 

[Chris-PA]

If your brother is sharpening with a Dremel type tool, and you learn to use a file well, you will beat him every time.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The cost of the 390 P/C kit is not expensive and isn't a particular hard conversion, basically a bolt in. The "rejetting" is done with the H and L screws on the carb, just about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn counterclockwise and start it up and see how it runs! If you decide to do this we can help, I've done several this year, getting ready to make another 390 from a box of spare parts but need a few more before I can start on it.

 

[Rockjock]

I have to agree with my learned colleagues that the chain is dull. I have run many MS 290s and they are a great firewood saw. Stout, reliable and predictable. My advise is simple. Get a sharp chain. It is not a fast cutting saw, it has torque and definite muscle for what it was intended to do. A muffler mod and a re-tune will liven it up a fair bit. May here will attest that the 029/MS 290 is a solid saw.

 

[birddogtg]

The 290 is very slow cutting but the 250 is even slower so if I were you I would make sure your chains were very sharp and keep them out of the dirt.

 

[Ryguy00]

OK reply to all. I got sidetracked when I went out to get the pictures. Helped out a neighbor and then started playing with the saw. Cleaned the air filter, installed new felling dogs I wanted, brushed and blew out all of the dirt and grime all over, found a brand new chain in the box (I thought I had already used it but was wrong) so I flipped the bar and installed that, checked in to the replies on my phone and went ahead and did the muffler mod.

Kinda late now and kids next door are sleeping so I can't go wot until tomorrow.

The chain that the saw shop sold me is 3/8 Lazer brand and the gear teeth (?) that ride along in the bar have 12 stamped on them. I have two of these chains and remember the other one cut like a lazer indeed.

The original Stihl chain is RMC? .325 and the gear teeth (cringe because I know I'm calling it the wrong thing) are stamped 6. They both fit and seem to drive well so I'm assuming there's no problem switching between 6 and 12?

The chain that was on it today (I thought was original Stihl chain but am apparently wrong) is not stamped Stihl, but it is .325 with gear teeth (I know!) stamped 6. The individual cutters appear to be mostly undamaged, at least not rocked, and seemingly consistent lengths. It appears to have been sharpened with a grinder (probably by the saw shop guy. The place burned down, hasn't been rebuilt yet, and I was there a long time ago. I'm sure I had him sharpen it, but don't remember exactly). I know I had it in the dirt a few times and expect it to be dull accordingly. It's throwing dust but the cutters appear to be fairly sharp. Judging by what I've read here, that means the angles are inconsistent or the rakers need filed. (Timberline sharpener and Husqvarna raker gauge are in the mail already to solve those and future sharpening problems)

Here are the photos of the "unbranded" chain I took off. The cutters appear to be the same as the ones on the Lazer chain, although .325 vs 3/8

I plan to do the carb adjusting tomorrow after work. I'll make an attempt at a video then.

 

[Ryguy00]

well holy crap! The pictures looked crisp on my phone. Apparently I need to downsize before uploading. Sorry guys.

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

First off, welcome to the site.

If a 250 is cutting significantly faster that a 290 one would be led to believe that you have a dull chain, an out of tune saw, or both. On paper you have a larger saw with a somewhat significant .8 HP advantage.

The guys on here can talk you through the basics to do a muffler mod, timing advance, and retune. Along with a good chisel or square ground chisel chain you should be leaving little bro in the dust.

But be careful, this saw stuff is addicting. Consider yourself warned

Ive got a 250 that i converted to lo-pro 3/8..with PS chain and a muffler mod its pretty sporty for what it is .. i kinda like the damn thing

 

[94BULLITT]

Get one of these to sharpen your chain.

http://granberg.com/product/g106b-file-n-joint

How is the air filter on your saw? The 290 has a crappy air filter that clogs easily.

Do a muffler mod to it then retune the carb and see how you like it.

3/8 lopro chains works good on these small saws. I like Stihl PS3. You will need to change your bar, chain, clutch drum and get a rim sprocket.

 

[svk]

OK reply to all. I got sidetracked when I went out to get the pictures. Helped out a neighbor and then started playing with the saw. Cleaned the air filter, installed new felling dogs I wanted, brushed and blew out all of the dirt and grime all over, found a brand new chain in the box (I thought I had already used it but was wrong) so I flipped the bar and installed that, checked in to the replies on my phone and went ahead and did the muffler mod.

Kinda late now and kids next door are sleeping so I can't go wot until tomorrow.

The chain that the saw shop sold me is 3/8 Lazer brand and the gear teeth (?) that ride along in the bar have 12 stamped on them. I have two of these chains and remember the other one cut like a lazer indeed.

The original Stihl chain is RMC? .325 and the gear teeth (cringe because I know I'm calling it the wrong thing) are stamped 6. They both fit and seem to drive well so I'm assuming there's no problem switching between 6 and 12?

The chain that was on it today (I thought was original Stihl chain but am apparently wrong) is not stamped Stihl, but it is .325 with gear teeth (I know!) stamped 6. The individual cutters appear to be mostly undamaged, at least not rocked, and seemingly consistent lengths. It appears to have been sharpened with a grinder (probably by the saw shop guy. The place burned down, hasn't been rebuilt yet, and I was there a long time ago. I'm sure I had him sharpen it, but don't remember exactly). I know I had it in the dirt a few times and expect it to be dull accordingly. It's throwing dust but the cutters appear to be fairly sharp. Judging by what I've read here, that means the angles are inconsistent or the rakers need filed. (Timberline sharpener and Husqvarna raker gauge are in the mail already to solve those and future sharpening problems)

Here are the photos of the "unbranded" chain I took off. The cutters appear to be the same as the ones on the Lazer chain, although .325 vs 3/8

I plan to do the carb adjusting tomorrow after work. I'll make an attempt at a video then.

Well that's some pretty trashed looking semi chisel. Get a loop of full chisel and you will see a big difference.

 

[stihl flying]

My rule is to hit the chain with a file every 2 or 3 tanks of fuel. That keeps it from getting to far out of wack.

 

[albert]

Your brothers 250 16" bar is not really 16. The bar mount those saws run are shorter than marked. Chain brand and type make a great difference in performance. How you sharpen makes even more.

Search muffler mod for your saw. Even a modest opening will make a noticeable increase in power if tuned correctly.

 

[Conquistador3]

I run a 290 with 3/8" conversion. It's not a hot rod saw, but does its job very well.
There are a few things you might want to check.
First, as the good people here pointed out, a sharp chain will make far more difference than you can imagine regardless if you are running a top of the line product or a cheap Chinese saw. My 290 with a freshly sharpened chain will take care of exactly the same wood you cut without a fuss and with a 20" bar.
Second, as already pointed out, clean your air filter after every use and get a new one if it looks bad. These filters do clog easily but are just as easily cleaned.
Third, muffler mod is nice and easy to do and requires adjustments to the carb anyone can do. Just remember this saw already makes a racket as standard and will become even noiser after the mod.
Fourth, check your oil pump is opened all the way. The "E" adjustment is barely adequate for a 16" bar.