Give It To Me Straight....

[haas]

Well , if obama the messiah , passes his health care , it will probably take the ambulane a few days to come and get you , another long wait at the ER , because it will be full of MEXICANS that are pregant , and MEXICAN men with stab wounds , so , probably a 3 day wait , then 6 months to see a dr later

:yourock:Luckily, I have a good arrangement with a local doctor...He set and casted my ankle for free when I broke it last year in a skiing accident. One of the many perks of my profession....

TREE MDS: Not a bad idea, but those man-lift-thingys are way to expensive. I already have most of the gear, so why not learn to climb trees safely? For less than $275 I can purchase all the gear I need to safely climb trees any day of the year. The snow around here is constantly taking branches out and $275 a day would add up quite fast. Oh, and I forgot to mention that I live on the side of a mountain....not too steep, but enough to nix the man-lift-thingy idea.

OUTOFMYTREE: thanks for the diagram, very helpful! A cambium saver is already on the list of things to purchase. Would you recommend one of those leather tubes or a strap with the steel o-rings? Can you get the strap version down from the ground? I'll try and get some tree pics up soon. Can I get into the lower canopy with just a flipline and hiking boots? (i'd be roped in) just curious if you can get enough friction with regular boots and no spikes?!?!

EVERYONE ELSE: no more ladder idea please! They are my arch nemisis! They are evil! And if I have to rope into the tree to make climbing a ladder safe, why not just climb the dumb tree!!!!

 

[outofmytree]

Would you recommend one of those leather tubes or a strap with the steel o-rings? Can you get the strap version down from the ground? I'll try and get some tree pics up soon. Can I get into the lower canopy with just a flipline and hiking boots? (i'd be roped in) just curious if you can get enough friction with regular boots and no spikes?!?!

The tube is a rope guide, the strap-and-rings is a cambium saver. The tree climbers companion will show you both "soft" and "hard" retrieval methods.

To ascend you will need the life line inserted first then climb the rope not the tree. Even if you could manage to climb with flipline and boots only the friction you generate would do serious bark damage where the purpose is to do little or no damage at all.

 

[treeseer]

EVERYONE ELSE: no more ladder idea please! They are my arch nemisis! They are evil! And if I have to rope into the tree to make climbing a ladder safe, why not just climb the dumb tree!!!!

Because climbing a ladder is more efficient, that's why. But you, and many tree climbers, are more into the climbing experience than efficiency. And that is ok too.

O and btw you can dispell the Evil by rubbing the ladder with garlic and goat's blood and shaking some chicken bones over it before you climb it.

And whatever you do, don't walk under it!

 

[haas]

And whatever you do, don't walk under it!

:bang:.....too late.....:bang:


They say you learn something new every day...I must be pushing my luck because today I have learned several things:
1. No matter how old you are, NEVER tell your mother you want to climb 50 feet up in a tree.
2. Friction AND ladders are evil. (think I could rub some garlic on the rope instead of using a cambium saver?)
3. Efficiency is overrated. Sometimes its the journey thats fun, not the end result!

Haha...Excellent!

That stinkin tree climbers companion book needs to hurry up and get here. It's worse than waiting a year to see the next season of "Lost."

 

[outofmytree]

Because climbing a ladder is more efficient, that's why.

Pay no attention to Guy he is getting on a bit and sometimes confuses efficiency with good. Climbing = good. Ladder = evil. Its quite simple really....:jester:

 

[lego1970]

Since we are on the subject of ladders. I have a love/hate relationship with them. I never trust them, especially when going on a second story roof top. They are pain to drag out and I've yet to find a groundsman that will volunteerly drag one out for me without asking, likewise when I'm the groundsman, I never haul it out until somebody ask for it. However, they speed climbing up on a lot of occasions and are a must have for working around Honey Locust.

 

[John464]

I think your not seeing things clear a ladder can be as safe as any form of climbing as long as your tied in. I use mine many times and it can speed the production rather than impede it. Attached to the ladder why would I attach to a ladder when there is a tree it is resting on

im seing it perfectly clear. working on a ladder at 30ft high, even with it tied to a tree is down right dangerous. the original poster was deciding between "Harness and flipline just seem safer than OR standing on a 25ft. ladder with a crappy pruning blade on a 15ft. stick!!!! "

I would like to see any arborist who can show pics of them at 30ft in the air, pruning a tree, with a ladder, to prove otherwise.

Ladders are ok for advancement into the tree, it is not a tool to use in the tree while cutting in the tree. it limits you to proper cutting angles, hangers, etc. Climbing gear should be on and groundie should remove the ladder(target) away from the tree.


If we are talking about a small ornamental prune with the use of an orchard ladder, it is also an accepted method.

 

[haas]

What's the difference between an arborist rope and a climbing rope?

Haven't gotten the TCC book yet, but I'm just curious. Seems that most arborist rope is a bit thicker 11mm-13mm. I have some 10.4mm climbing rope? Is that ok to use?

 

[rngrchad]

HEY, IVE BEEN LOOKING FOR STRAIGHT LONG LEAF TOBACCO. i CANT FIND ANY. CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE TO GET STRAIGHT LONG LEAF TOBACCO OR WHO MAKES IT?
:bang:

 

[ozzy42]

You guys still going on about the ladder thing?
they are safe if you use them propperly.

.

 

[lego1970]

What's the difference between an arborist rope and a climbing rope?

Haven't gotten the TCC book yet, but I'm just curious. Seems that most arborist rope is a bit thicker 11mm-13mm. I have some 10.4mm climbing rope? Is that ok to use?

I'm not a 100% but I believe most dynamic or even static rock climbing lines are nylon, kevlar, or something inbetween. Most rock climbing lines are kernmantle construction which is like two ropes in one, an outer sheath with an inner core. Most tree ropes are Polyester which has less stretch, softer and allow hitches of the same diameter rope to work better. Most modern ropes are either 12 or 16 strand although there are still 3 strand and kernmantle types out there. The kernmantle ropes have a tendency to milk during tree work, which means the inner and outer parts of the rope don't stay together and you get uneven segments of rope. I could be wrong but I believe the 12 strand has lower stretch but non-spliceble plus wear is directed along a smaller number of strands and the 16 strand has greater stretch but spliceable plus the wear is distributed along a larger number of strands. Most tree ropes are 1/2 for both ANSI standards and it allows better grip. I believe there is an exception for 7/16 lines but I do not know what that is. The above statements are what I believe to be correct but I could be wrong on one or all of the statements so please double check with your supplier. Good luck.