Gonna mill using a jig for the first time Sunday!

[Brent Nowell]

i just bought this

https://www.amazon.ca/Timber-Tuff-T...ocphy=9001328&hvtargid=pla-293946777986&psc=1

Laugh all you want boys and girls but you gotta start somewhere right? Gonna see how it goes.
My plan is to cut a somewhat square end on the log using the beam machine and then go from there making my own sized planks.

I’m pretty sure I’m gonna realize how bad this device is and maybe some good too? I have the money for an Alaskan mill but I always find the best learning experience for tools on a job comes from using crappy tools.

Will post pics

 

[BobL]

How did it go?

 

[WolfMann]

Keep us posted.

 

[Brent Nowell]

Oh it went well actually, the beam machine has some flex so you can’t push on it, just let the saw do the work. He finish is terrible with the full house chisel chain on a 24” bar, and the chain got very hot, hot enough to leave brown burn stains on top of the cutter.

Wood was a piece of hardwood, green with smooth bark ( I don’t know my trees sorry).

At the end with practice I learned how to make the beams square, and I believe I have come up with a way to make not only beams but planks with this tool. I will try again this weekend.

Yesterday I bought an Oregon tipping chain full house, I’ll try that for sure next time

 

[WolfMann]

Ripping chain should smooth things up for sure, the beams look good, what are the dimensions? It's a good idea to not let the chain get that hot, if you can adjust the oiler you should turn it all the way up. Also nice to give the saw a short break (30-40 secs) once or twice during the cut. What are you gonna build with the lumber?

 

[Brent Nowell]

I’m using a 395xp with a 24” bar and yes the Oiler is cranked full, I’m pretty sure it’s just the fact that it’s a full chisel 30 degree angle chain rubbing hard with the grain of a hardwood.. hopefully this ripping chain don’t get as hot.

I plan to make a small 1.5’ high bench out of a thick board with the bark still on the outside. The beams I’m gonna scrap and make new ones with the ripping chain. I’ll try and make a 4x6 beam out of one for two legs. I have some killer stain I want to use.
Again I’m very amateur at this but I have the drive to keep trying and learn from my mistakes. Thanks for the interest!

 

[BobL]

. .. finish is terrible with the full house chisel chain on a 24” bar, and the chain got very hot, hot enough to leave brown burn stains on top of the cutter.

Does the saw spray oil off the end of the bar nose? Put a piece of cardboard or wood close to the nose and run WOT for ~10 s and make sure oil is spraying off the end.

30º full chisel should cut like a demon, a more likely cause is chain is not set up right. Take a close up, side on, photo of a couple of cutters and post these on the forum and we can perhaps diagnose the problem.
Like this"


Unless you are using an all plastic hardware store special CS there should be no need to rest the saw mid cut.
Modern pro chain saws are designed to run for 2000 hours at WOT before they need a P&C change.
With a sloping log, a locking throttle that frees up an arm, and my log rails and wedges setup along the top of the logs I don't need to stop to install wedges, even on 4 ft wide 12 fit long log.
It is worth richening up the mix/air ratio to help keep the saw cool.

 

[SeMoTony]

i just bought this

https://www.amazon.ca/Timber-Tuff-T...ocphy=9001328&hvtargid=pla-293946777986&psc=1

Laugh all you want boys and girls but you gotta start somewhere right? Gonna see how it goes.
My plan is to cut a somewhat square end on the log using the beam machine and then go from there making my own sized planks.

I’m pretty sure I’m gonna realize how bad this device is and maybe some good too? I have the money for an Alaskan mill but I always find the best learning experience for tools on a job comes from using crappy tools.

Will post pics

No laughter here! That's what got me started, with a similar unit from Harbor Freight. I found the set screws couldn't get enough pressure to hold the bar very tight. The answer was to drill a hole through the bar to allow a bolt to hold the cast iron from springing apart on the one I have. Also I stopped using boards for guides after I found aluminum rectangular tube for a guide with holes counter sunk for screws to stabilize the tube in place. it's liable to progress for you as it has in my case.
Enjoy safely

 

[WolfMann]

I would reckon the 2000 hours between piston/cylinder changes is more with standard cross cutting in mind, no? Not to say a milling saw couldn't go as long between changes, but when milling your running the saw at wot for several minutes at a time. I realize that it takes 2-3 minutes of idling for a hot saw to get back down to normal temps but for me giving it 30 secs or so mid cut while I place wedges and top off fuel/oil is just a little extra peace of mind, like running 32:1. Definitely agree about richer air/fuel mix on carb.

 

[WolfMann]

But that's just what's been working for me, it sounds like you haven't had any issues running saw all the way through cut. It's good to know considering you're dealing with some extra hard wood down there.

 

[WolfMann]

Brent the bench sounds nice, you'll have to post some pictures when done.

 

[Brent Nowell]

No laughter here! That's what got me started, with a similar unit from Harbor Freight. I found the set screws couldn't get enough pressure to hold the bar very tight. The answer was to drill a hole through the bar to allow a bolt to hold the cast iron from springing apart on the one I have. Also I stopped using boards for guides after I found aluminum rectangular tube for a guide with holes counter sunk for screws to stabilize the tube in place.View attachment 674640 it's liable to progress for you as it has in my case.
Enjoy safely

Yes that was the first thing I did was drill holes for the two Allen screws, they are 1/2” which is pretty big so what I did was just drilled divots instead of all the way through. IMO without doing this it might vibrate off and you are risking your chain. It only has 1/8 of clearance between the cutter and top of the horse shoe... drilling all the way through may be the best option for a laminate bar as applying tension on divots in this configuration may push the layers apart. However I’m using a solid bar for this
I used pink t tape on the threads of the bolts to prevent them from backing out and I also taped the bolt that connects to the guide for a little bit of extra rigidity.
I also clamped the device on the top of the bar just in case the chain started to stretch and got caught on the metal it say it was on the bottom...
If I could choose again I think I would have bought the other unit that uses the 2x6 as it has two hinge supports for the saw instead of just one on the unit I bought.


As for the chain yes it’s getting plenty of oil and it was brand new so angles are all the same as well as the depth gauges... I am pretty sure hardwood with a full chisel at 30 degrees going with the grain generates much more heat. I am gonna try and see if I can try the tipping chain when I get home today

 

[cat10ken]

The logs you are milling are poplar, a very soft hardwood. It should mill as easy as any softwood.

 

[Brent Nowell]

The logs you are milling are poplar, a very soft hardwood. It should mill as easy as any softwood.

Define easy? Easy for the chain or my back lol????

I’m just kidding.


Where to start with the woes of the beam machine....
All pictures are above and you’ll see how I set this up in which the beam machine is the issue with making 90 degree angles and not the preparation...

I’m done with this thing, let’s start off with that.


Pros;
Price, yep cheap as hell, and yes you can make 90 degree edges with EXTREME discipline... anyone who says other wise isn’t using a square on their finished product.

Mount:
Only if you drill divets to hold the bolts in which THEN this has a killer mount

Cons


Gap
-there is a clear 1/4” gap in the guide with using any 2x4. This is the numero uno problem with this thing in failing to get consistent cuts. That kind of gap forces you to make sure that it is square by pushing pulling a certain way, which leads to problem number 2...

-Flex
If the gap was t enough, try juggling that with this issue! You can’t push or pull too much cause now you throw your guide out on the 2x4 that your running it on. Having these two variables is just too much for me, which also leads to the third problem.

-My DAMN back!
Yes pulling the beam machine even with a ripping chain is just killer on my back... you can do the chopping then stop and reposition method to keep your back intact however this leaves a lot of uneven surfaces and ripping of the wood fibers... you just can’t win.

Finally all I can say is that if your looking to make beams that are somewhat 90 degrees that look imo terrible compared to an Alaskan mill that doesn’t break the bank, then this is for you!

I got exactly what I paid for hahaha oh well it was in all honesty the way I learn best...

Now there is another product that’s similar with a much better pivoting system that uses a 2x6 or you can adjust it for a tight fit on other lumber... it’s about the same price...
But I just keep thinking about my back and what I want out of the wood I’m milling (nice true surface that still needs work but no where near as much as beam machine)...
I think I should just jump on the full setup method using 2x4’s as the initial guide or a ladder...
Gonna have to think on it..

As for the chain works really good, surface is much smoother and it didn’t get nearly as hot. I will never use a regular chain again for board making .