Good medium growth low maint. shade tree

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I don't know if this belongs in this group but here it goes. I have a side yard that runs about 75 feet from a fence line that meets perpendicular with a road, and ends at my driveway with a 60 feet tall Pin Oak. All this side yard is parallel with a road that my house is situated. I am looking to fill the void with a shade tree that is not too fast growing, so as to not outgrow it's structural integrity, and not too slow that I am 70 before I can enjoy the shade and it's beauty. I have been looking at a Hackberry tree but I have been reading some bad things about them, do any of you guys/girls have any idea? It will have some room for a medium size canopy, but not enough space that is needed for a stately Oak to occupy. Any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. And no the power lines are on the other side of the street.
 
Ginkgo

Well I like Ginkgo biloba myself and you certainly have some nice specimens up there in your area but perhaps it may be too slow for you. Good things take time. Therefore maybe an Ulmus parvifolia - Chinese Lacebark Elm, will serve you well. I like them also. Choose a cultivar that fits your need both in size and in cold hardiness. Below you will find some links to info on this tree. There are more cultivars than are listed in the table.

http://www.floridata.com/ref/U/ulmu_par.cfm

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/...ees-new/cultivars/ulmus_parvifolia-table.html
 
I have not really thought of placing an Elm there because of the disease factor. Thanks to your links I think I have found my tree. The top link is awesome, and answered all of my questions but one; I need to find a nursery that will deliver a good specimen to my area.

Thanks a lot for the reply, and Merry Christmas.
 
I am not a big fan of White Pines and White Spruces either. Here in Cincinnati, and Northern Ky, they have been dying off for some reason or another. I have a 75' tall White Spruce farther down my yard, and for the past 7 years I have been cutting limbs off that have been dying each year. The dead limbs now go half way up the tree.
To me the tree gets too large for the space I have. I will have a need to get through the yard to get into the open area, and I am afraid that the Pines would grow out too much and choke off the opening, and cutting it back would be tacky, and hurtful the the tree. Thanks for the input though, very much appreciated.
 
That's 2 votes for the 'Living Fossil'. I have always heard that this tree stinks pretty bad, assuming it is the female variety. This tree is said to be a slow growing tree, how long would it take to get about 25' tall? I agree that it is a beautiful tree, but I don't want to be dead before this tree comes to maturity.
 
I'm a Ginkgo guy as well, so that's what I recommend. It's my favorite tree. The male cultivars are what you see in almost all nurseries, as the females are the least desirable because they bear the smelly fruit. A foot of growth per year for the first few years after it's planted, then accelerating up to 1 foot and a half per year thereafter. Get one in a large container or B & B.

Here in Troy, Michigan we've also had great luck with the Kentucky Coffee Tree, Katsura Tree, Bald Cypress, and Green Vase Zelkova.
 
I'm a Ginkgo guy as well, so that's what I recommend. It's my favorite tree. The male cultivars are what you see in almost all nurseries, as the females are the least desirable because they bear the smelly fruit. A foot of growth per year for the first few years after it's planted, then accelerating up to 1 foot and a half per year thereafter. Get one in a large container or B & B.

Here in Troy, Michigan we've also had great luck with the Kentucky Coffee Tree, Katsura Tree, Bald Cypress, and Green Vase Zelkova.

The Ginkgo seems to be popular, when do I plant this tree, anytime, or after the last frost?
 
The Ginkgo seems to be popular, when do I plant this tree, anytime, or after the last frost?


Well if you insist on a Ginkgo, look for a grafted, named clone from a reputable nursery. Too many nursery personnel will tell you that their trees are male grafted or rooted trees when in fact they are most likely unsexed seedlings. Go to the owner or manager with your concerns. Get a firm declaration that what you are buying is a male clone. It may take from 15 to 30 years for a tree to show sex.
Best to plant in spring. After planting, whether from a container or b&b, it will likely grow so slowly that you may mistake it for a plastic plant. But once the roots get established it could grow as much as 3' per year. Getting it to that point may take a number of years. Typically I tend to tell people about 2 to 3 years. I have heard tales from Ginkgo owners of even longer periods before good, rapid growth takes place. When these trees get of size they are said to slow down in growth rate.

Below is an image of a male tree that I have been grafting from...cloning. It is on Penny Lane and I call it "Penny Lane". I estimate it to be at least 50 years old. It is a handsome male specimen if I do say so.

attachment.php

Penny Lane
 
Yes, spring is my favorite planting time as well, although container plants (potted) can be be planted anytime. Sometimes prices are cheaper at the end of the season. Ginkgos are tough and you shouldn't have any problems regardless of when you plant it.
 
Yes, spring is my favorite planting time as well, although container plants (potted) can be be planted anytime. Sometimes prices are cheaper at the end of the season. Ginkgos are tough and you shouldn't have any problems regardless of when you plant it.


But with trees like Ginkgo, Magnolia etc., trees with fleshy roots, it is suggested to plant in spring.
I usually plant in summer.
 
That tree looks beautiful. It would seem that come April, I will be getting one of those. The tree in the picture has wonderful shape. Thanks to all who helped. I am more educated in cutting trees down, or pruning, not so much in planting. Time to turn a new leaf now and again.
:)
 

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