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Opinion

IMHO the only way a sliding bridge works well is when the two anchors for the bridge are far apart. Like the versatile. Tying them to the ****** loops on the front of the master will give some of the characteristics of a sliding bridge but it will still want to turn your body facing the climbing line. Go for the xtra cash and buy the right saddle the first time, or you'll wind up buying a second saddle down the road, and two saddles cost more than one.

corey
 
Lync, I gotta respectfully disagree. I love the shorter bridge. I think it's just a matter of opinion. How many people buy the butterfly (which comes with a longer strap) then replace it with one half it's size?

love
nick
 
Originally posted by NickfromWI
I called the manufacturer a few weeks ago and they said that for that product the SWL is determined using a 5:1 safety factor. That means the 5/16th would be the way to go!

Here's a pic of the strap I was talking about. This one is made by DMM:) but there are many manufacturers that make them. Make sure it is rated for 23kn. Also, if you go to a rock climbing shop (REI) ask for a "quickdraw." This usually includeds the webbing and two carabiners. Ask what the price is for just the webbing. Shouldn't be more than 5 dollars if it's less than a foot long. (By bridge is 9 inches long, one of the guys at work like 14")

http://www.gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=G&Product_Code=7755

love
nick

Then the sackle is only 2 1/8" long, not 4".... Not as bad as was said... a 4" shackle would be too long, you would have more shackle than bridge:).

I think that the master would do fine...

Not as an insult or anything, but if you are just startin out, do you really have enough preferance to want a full on sliding D, instead of the Master? It was between the Ness and the Master when I started...

But that X looks mighty sweet :Monkey: but mighty expensive :eek:
 
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