Got another stubborn one.. Stihl 017

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I went back through this post and indeed I didn't say whether I replaced the carb or not, sorry about that. I will indeed go out tomorrow and check to see if I actually did replace it. Looking through my ebay records I see where I bought a carburetor for it but I'll still check and see if I put it on. I know I put one on the other saw I'm working on. Getting old isn't the fun it ought to be.
 
I had this happen this week with a vintage 025. I replaced the carb and after that it ran perfectly. Perhaps it was already flooded, but all my flood tests failed. Nothing worked, but the new carb solved everything. Engine started on the third pull: first two on choke and third at fast-idle position. Fired immediately and runs great today.

I had something a few weeks ago, can't remember exactly what, but it was just dumping fuel in to the barrel all the time. No way to unflood it. Empty the tank I suppose. New carb fixed it.
 
I find it odd that so many do not feel the need to vacuum and pressure test on a saw with age. First place I go in the shop. At least 75% will have it.

I know I am at odds with most. But, you should be able to determine if a saw has an air leak without testing.

Sort of jumps out at you.
 
I had this happen this week with a vintage 025. I replaced the carb and after that it ran perfectly. Perhaps it was already flooded, but all my flood tests failed. Nothing worked, but the new carb solved everything. Engine started on the third pull: first two on choke and third at fast-idle position. Fired immediately and runs great today.
Yeah, it could be flooded, he should clear it out and try again.
I know I am at odds with most. But, you should be able to determine if a saw has an air leak without testing.

Sort of jumps out at you.
It depends on to what degree it leaks, and it is best to eliminate this right off the bat.
 
Yeah, it could be flooded, he should clear it out and try again.

It depends on to what degree it leaks, and it is best to eliminate this right off the bat.

If it does not leak enough that you can tell by running it, then why ?

Cause some Stihl class told you to ?

I have cranked the high needle up and finished a job with half the plastic part of the seal gone.

Jesus. Work on some saws.
 
I know I am at odds with most. But, you should be able to determine if a saw has an air leak without testing.

Sort of jumps out at you.
I kind of agree with you but this saw has never been started by me, I just pull and pull and nothing happens, like the ignition is turned off but it's not.
I didn't work on anything today but I did notice the saw has the new carburetor on it and everything is attached. I noticed on my receipt that I also bought an ignition module at the same time but it is not on the saw. If I can locate it I'll install it and see if anything happens.
 
When I've flooded some of my saws in the past and you try to start them they kick back and try to pull the starter rope out of your hand; I got none of this with this saw. It was also easy to pull over considering it had good compression, checked with a known good tester. If I can find that module I bought I'll try to install it tomorrow if nothing else comes up. I'm still leaning toward that being my problem.
 
Not to see if- to prove where and negate the guessing game of near enough is good enough.
I still say that if there's fuel in the combustion chamber and the ignition and compression are okay then it should hit at least once, air leak or not. This saw has all three except the timing of the spark may not be at the right time. Since I can't locate my timing light maybe I can locate my ignition module, I have most of the day tomorrow to see if I can find it. Don't ever move, even if your wife wants to!!
 

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